Sam first up howareya mate? ( i'm an ex carer Sam I have to ask if you mended yet bro it's law
) Is there irony in the fact as I ask you that i've just had an alert from you.probably in a thread I have no hope of understanding. . I've just been reading through your cell balancing debate with Delmassive..which is fascinating but I'll have to come back to over and over.
Mate yours is such a fascinating build, it just seemed a shame that there is no reply after the photobomb, I adore the oak WT's and the overkill leccy it's such a cool example of what's possible in a transporter .
i kinda want to tentatively ask about your hot water : can you detail that very simply for me ha ha which holds more irony as I use a hundred year old design ( kelly kettle) and twigs to provide us with most of what we need,but your "hi tech " take IS fascinating to me.
Somewhere you wrote about tyres and getting stuck on grass campsites where did you go with that Sam?
HNY
stu
Hey
@Soundz. I hope you had a good Christmas.
What do you need to know about the hot water kit?
It is a simple tank with separate AC and DC elements:
SureCal boilers are made of the finest quality materials, which guaranteeing the ultimate performance and reliability. (NO COIL)
www.surejust.co.uk
I have wired my AC element to a protected and switched supply, which comes directly from the EHU. This means that it won't work from my Multiplus, because that would be stupid as it would gobble up my entire LB capacity in less than 4 hours!
So the AC element only works when on EHU.
The 12 volt side is easy if you just want to keep things simple and have the water heat when the ignition is on.
This is achieved by installing a relay which is switched by the ignition feed.
Heavy Duty 12V 100 Amp Relay | Classic British Quality Vehicle Wiring Harnesses from Autosparks
www.autosparks.co.uk
Note that the feed to the water heater does need to be switched because the heater will need draining down in winter and you won't want it running all the time anyway. (EG-If you need to charge your LB if it is fairly flat.)
I've done this by using a Cerbo GX which means it will kill the water heater power if the LB is less than 90%. This could be achieved using the relay output from a Battery Monitor such as the BMV712. To be honest that feature is totally overkill and a simple switch would do!
If I were doing this again I'd install a dedicated DC-DC charger for the heater, but I am kind of finished on this van for now!
It is not strictly necessary to install an accumulator tank, but you definitely need an expansion tank to deal with the expansion of water when it heats, otherwise the PRV will do its thing!
I can't remember what size tanks I went for but I did install both accumulator and expansion tanks. (As can be see in post #16.)
The PRV and drain on mine are Tee'd together and then exit the van through the floor directly under the tank. This is essential to ensure that the PRV doesn't dump your tank contents into your van in the event of an issue!
As for the pre-freeze drain down..... I didn't leave enough access to the drain cock and I really need a hatch in the back panel, so I just drained it as well as I could using the shower as this was the lowest point!
BTW- My wooden worktops were bought and not made......Not like your awesome build!
I didn't rally get stuck in a field in Dorset. I avoided getting stuck.....which was the problem! It was a bit of a laugh rallying up a hilly field screaming "speed is your friend girls!" To the kids. Then there was a grass covered ditch, followed by a bang! (Then a little sob from me!)
Changing the subject completely; I'm a bit disappointed with the results of my op tbh, but I'm still holding onto the fact that everyone thinks I'm a grumpy old b@57ard that needs to give things time!
Hope that the above info provides a bit of useful info. Let me know if you need more?