you need to look at this victron guide . . .
No charge from Solar panel
- Thread starter OllieGBR
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- lithium battery solar victron
It does need a bus bar @Dellmassive - far too many connectors on the BVM shunt.
Should all the battery positive wires be via a large fuse to the positive battery connector?
Should all the battery positive wires be via a large fuse to the positive battery connector?
So shunt to ground on North side and all other devices that need monitoring also to ground. South side of shunt to battery -vehave a quick loot at this . .
Diagrams, Schematics & Wires -- How I Done It --
Diagrams, Schematics & Wires -- How I Done It -- ************************************************** Dellmassive`s -- "how I Done It" -- Thread ************************************************** Kit List And Stuff -- How I Done It & What I Use --...www.t6forum.com
View attachment 81627
Ok. I have some more ready to do - thanks @Dellmassive once again for your insight.The fitter told me he knew how to do all of this - now wish I’d done it myself.
shunt shoul be on the neg side of the battery. then to ground.
like this . . .
all other negs need to go to a body ground or via a bus-bar ground.
The main battery positive needs to go to a main MIDI fuse bock as a distribution point. (bat cable and large fuse)
all fused circuits from there, not prom battery post.
like this:
and all smaller circuits from a blade fuse block like this:
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more pics in this thread:
12v Lithium Leisure Battery Box 138Ah 1766Wh -- How I Done It --
12v Lithium Leisure Battery Box 138Ah 1766Wh -- How I Done It -- It's about time that I got this long-overdue project sorted out. The missing parts are on order and completion is in sight . . . . . . . . ready for the Post Pandemic 2020 Camping Trips (Hopefully) This is where it started. p1...
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That battery is capable of 100A plus . . .
if its not wired correctly, or fused and cable size correctly you could have an electrical fire that will be the end of the van.
Lithium's are extremely powerful and will set light to and unused/incorrectly fused cable in seconds.
if its not wired correctly, or fused and cable size correctly you could have an electrical fire that will be the end of the van.
Lithium's are extremely powerful and will set light to and unused/incorrectly fused cable in seconds.
move all these off the battery to a ground point or bus-bar (fat thick cable capable of carrying the max current of the system)
now fit the shunt in between the battery neg and the bus bar or body ground.
again with a fat juicy cable - (fat thick cable capable of carrying the max current of the system)
now fit the shunt in between the battery neg and the bus bar or body ground.
again with a fat juicy cable - (fat thick cable capable of carrying the max current of the system)
move all these off the battery to a suitable fuse block...
then feed the fuse block with a fused - - (fat thick cable capable of carrying the max current of the system)
then feed the fuse block with a fused - - (fat thick cable capable of carrying the max current of the system)
here is an example MIDI fuse block for the positive side . . .
........................
here is an example ground point bus bar . .
...............
here is an example for smaller circuit fuse box . . .
KIMISS Car Audio Stereo ANL Blade Fuse Holder Distribution Blocks 0/4GA 4 Way Fuses Box Block 30A 60A: Amazon.co.uk: Automotive
KIMISS Car Audio Stereo ANL Blade Fuse Holder Distribution Blocks 0/4GA 4 Way Fuses Box Block 30A 60A: Amazon.co.uk: Automotive
amzn.to
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here is an example ground point bus bar . .
RKURCK 4 way Power Distribution Block, 0/2/4 AWG Gauge in, 4/8/10 Gauge Out, Car Audio Stereo Amp Distribution Connecting Block for Audio Splitter (1 in 4 Out): Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo
RKURCK 4 way Power Distribution Block, 0/2/4 AWG Gauge in, 4/8/10 Gauge Out, Car Audio Stereo Amp Distribution Connecting Block for Audio Splitter (1 in 4 Out): Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo
amzn.to
...............
here is an example for smaller circuit fuse box . . .
make a list off your kit here:
and the loads you are running off the system . . .
that way you can calculate the max current draw . . . .
which means would can work out the cable size and the fuse to protect it.
and the loads you are running off the system . . .
that way you can calculate the max current draw . . . .
which means would can work out the cable size and the fuse to protect it.
OK, so here's the equipment I have;
Victron
MPPT 75/15 Solar controller (assuming max 15Amp)
Blue Smart IP65 charger 7Amp
Orion-Tr Smart 12/12 30 (assuming max 30Amp)
BVM-712 Monitor
NDS 140W flexible solar panel (Max 6.6Amp)
Surejust 6ltr 12v/240v water heater 300W @12v = 25Amp
Fiamma Aqua 8 water pump (Manual not specific on current or Wattage?)
Dometic CRX 65 (12v 66W 5.5Amp)
4 x Dimatec LED lights- touch control (1.2W x 4 = 4.8W @ 12v = 0.4Amp)
4 x LED strip lights - (8W x 4 = 32 @ 12v = 2.7Amp)
Planar 2KW diesel heater - (30W max @ 12v = 2.5Amp, according to the manual*) *Confused by this listing in the manual as the two fuses in the Planar at 25A and 20A
So, I add up the theoretical max Amperage it's around 96Amp.
Therefore I assume this will suffice to isolate the battery;
Victron Smart battery connect 100A
A 30A breaker for in-between the solar panels and the MPPT, (for isolation)
As I'm in a throwing more money at this, thought I would add to my list with the battery sense for the MPPT
and a LoRaWAN device for the whole lot as I actually need to be in the van to get a Bluetooth signal for these devices making it painful for trouble shooting.
Now I need to work out the cable sizes for each device, and I assume a 110A capable guage wire for the battery to 100A breaker.
The rest I'm looking into.
I also need to order battery crimp tool and connectors!
Thanks for your continued support @Dellmassive
Ollie
Victron
MPPT 75/15 Solar controller (assuming max 15Amp)
Blue Smart IP65 charger 7Amp
Orion-Tr Smart 12/12 30 (assuming max 30Amp)
BVM-712 Monitor
NDS 140W flexible solar panel (Max 6.6Amp)
Surejust 6ltr 12v/240v water heater 300W @12v = 25Amp
Fiamma Aqua 8 water pump (Manual not specific on current or Wattage?)
Dometic CRX 65 (12v 66W 5.5Amp)
4 x Dimatec LED lights- touch control (1.2W x 4 = 4.8W @ 12v = 0.4Amp)
4 x LED strip lights - (8W x 4 = 32 @ 12v = 2.7Amp)
Planar 2KW diesel heater - (30W max @ 12v = 2.5Amp, according to the manual*) *Confused by this listing in the manual as the two fuses in the Planar at 25A and 20A
So, I add up the theoretical max Amperage it's around 96Amp.
Therefore I assume this will suffice to isolate the battery;
Victron Smart battery connect 100A
A 30A breaker for in-between the solar panels and the MPPT, (for isolation)
As I'm in a throwing more money at this, thought I would add to my list with the battery sense for the MPPT
and a LoRaWAN device for the whole lot as I actually need to be in the van to get a Bluetooth signal for these devices making it painful for trouble shooting.
Now I need to work out the cable sizes for each device, and I assume a 110A capable guage wire for the battery to 100A breaker.
The rest I'm looking into.
I also need to order battery crimp tool and connectors!
Thanks for your continued support @Dellmassive
Ollie
The victron smart protect.is not a fuse, you still need to add a large fuse.
The battery protect will just disconect your loads if the battery drops to low to protect the lifepo4.
Its also a one way device, ie you can't back charge through it.
The battery protect will just disconect your loads if the battery drops to low to protect the lifepo4.
Its also a one way device, ie you can't back charge through it.
Understood, thanks.
I have also received today the 'large fuse' and Midi connector.
I understand that the Smart Battery Protect isn't a fuse. From your note I also need to make sure that it's only connected to the 'loads' and not the DC DC charger, MPPT or shore power charger.
That Smart Battery protect should be connected Leisure Battery +ve > fuse > EDIT: Battery Protect (not Smart Shunt) > Loads.
The black braided wire to the battery +ve is from the Redarc DC-DC.
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Yes correct,
Like above.
Charge sources need to be connected "behind" it.....
As its classed as a one way device.
So back charging through it is not allowed.
Like above.
Charge sources need to be connected "behind" it.....
As its classed as a one way device.
So back charging through it is not allowed.
So by inference I assume that the solar and battery charger +ve need to be directly connected to the battery, (thus bypassing the Smart Protect).
Yes correct...
Or even just connect to the Victron battery protect stud on the battery side.... or battery direct...
Just remember not to bridge out a power shunt if you have one.(battery neg side).. make sure the charger negs go to a ground busbar and not direct to the battery neg post....
Or even just connect to the Victron battery protect stud on the battery side.... or battery direct...
Just remember not to bridge out a power shunt if you have one.(battery neg side).. make sure the charger negs go to a ground busbar and not direct to the battery neg post....
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