If you took the wipers and scuttle panel off, you have access to a bung under there.

At least that's where I popped my cruise and fog light wires through. There is a bung at both the nearside and offside
 
If you follow the cables from the starter battery you should find a cable route there behind the glovebox

 
If you follow the cables from the starter battery you should find a cable route there behind the glovebox

I did see that route (and the post as it goes) and did toy with the idea but didnt really want to pull the dash apart just yet, was hoping to use the route that is suggested / find out what everyone else has done for those canbus wires.


Screenshot 2023-09-18 163920.png
 
cant find that grommet from the top of the engine bay ☝
 
If you remove the scuttle panel and route along there, the grommet there will bring your wires out right at the module. Just make sure you have the wires tied down out the way of the wiper linkage
 
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I fitted a PF Jones towbar and cable so I know what you are looking for. It took me a while to find it, and even then I had to do everything by feel. You can never take enough photos and unfortunately I do not have any of this part, though I do have some of the connector and cable harness that you have to splice into. But that hole is a PITA to find and access. I think that in my case, there were no other cables going through it, so it was filled with a solid grommet. The PF Jones harness comes with e replacement grommet.
 
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Do you know what, I actually debated doing just that but thought I would see if I could (or if anyone else had) locate the grommet that is in the 'destructions' first.
Still may take that route as I'm indecided as to what is worse, the elements or the extreme temperatures under the hood?
 
Is it actually where it is in the pictures, I've got all the abs, AC, power steering hoses and the intake to the turbos in thein the way, I can't even get my hand to the firewall.

Did you go in from the top or whip the belly pan off and access it from under the van?
 
Is it actually where it is in the pictures, I've got all the abs, AC, power steering hoses and the intake to the turbos in thein the way, I can't even get my hand to the firewall.

Did you go in from the top or whip the belly pan off and access it from under the van?
From memory I accessed it from above by sliding my hand down the bulkhead and behind some foam/rubber insulation. I certainly didn’t access it from under the van. The grommet is below the top of that insulation so is hidden from view. Access might be slightly different on my van as it is a TSI, but I would have thought that the grommet is in the same place. Once found, it wasn’t as hard to remove and replace as I expected.
Good Luck.
 
quick update, cant find the one below the brake booster (not anywhere i can get my hand / arm to fit at least).

Thanks for the tip @Dundee_Kev, under the scuttle plate worked a treat! Didn't realise how close that come out to the plugs under the dash.

All in and working, now to code the thing!
 
Sorry for bringing up an old thread but found it while searching for help.

Looking for some advise on this, I have just completed the wiring for the PF Jones non preped towbar on a T6 but made the school boy mistake of connecting to the red/black wire and had the brake lights on all thr time.

I have gone to swap it over but could only find Black/Red but with yellow dots on the wire (as below) is this the right wire? I have connected it up but still have brake lights on all the time even after disconnecting from the black/red wire. Hoping i have not blown something in the module.

T6 Wiring.jpg
 
I did mine a few weeks ago, connected to the wrong red/black and had brake lights on all the time.
Changed to to that one with the yellow dots, and it's worked fine since
 
Thanks Sprocker, glad its is the one with yellow dots on, Its really strange as I seem to be getting 12v (well close enough) from the brake light pin on the plug despite the wire not even beiong connected.
 
Not sure about yours, but OEM towbar terminals won't "activate" unless trailer is attached (bulb like load on a few terminals) = multimeter doesn't load terminals enough for them to turn on.
Can I confirm what you mean by this? My van has a 13-pin connection and I am trying to swap it for a flat 7-pin connection because that is what my family uses on a few trailers and a boat. I found a wiring diagram for the 13-pin which aligned with the wire colours on the socket, but when I put indicators or tail lights on I measured a voltage fluctuating around 2V.

Do you mean to say that the computer leaves a low voltage on the wire and, if a load (example being a light bulb) is connected across a few of them then it decides a trailer is connected and then delivers power according to the lights in the car?

I was a bit lost today and under time pressure. If my understanding is correct, I am guessing that I can just wire it up according to the wiring diagram for the respective sockets and it will work. Do you think that is correct?
 
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Do you mean to say that the computer leaves a low voltage on the wire and, if a load (example being a light bulb) is connected across a few of them then it decides a trailer is connected and then delivers power according to the lights in the car?
Yes, correct. I think it's actually short 12 Volt pulses every now and then to detect presence of a trailer - which a multimeter shows as "low" voltage.

If my understanding is correct, I am guessing that I can just wire it up according to the wiring diagram for the respective sockets and it will work. Do you think that is correct?
Yes, correct.

Some related threads:
 
Can I confirm what you mean by this? My van has a 13-pin connection and I am trying to swap it for a flat 7-pin connection because that is what my family uses on a few trailers and a boat. I found a wiring diagram for the 13-pin which aligned with the wire colours on the socket, but when I put indicators or tail lights on I measured a voltage fluctuating around 2V.

Do you mean to say that the computer leaves a low voltage on the wire and, if a load (example being a light bulb) is connected across a few of them then it decides a trailer is connected and then delivers power according to the lights in the car?

I was a bit lost today and under time pressure. If my understanding is correct, I am guessing that I can just wire it up according to the wiring diagram for the respective sockets and it will work. Do you think that is correct?
Why would you swap the connection from 13 to 7 pin or visa versa? You can buy an adapter for either way. Check Amazon etc...
 
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