Planar Night-Heaters.

Hi did you fit that planar 2d underfloor?
Did you use b pillar option as described in.

tigerexped - offroad · overland · equipment

They have some good videos, but they are european vehicles LHD, so i an wondering if installation is same for RHD.

Whats the experience like?
@Owain - The fitting was time consuming, but relatively straight forward.
I did manage to squeeze it under the drivers side and beneath the plastic trim. I have my fuel pump here too, and it all works really well. The hot air exits through the elongated hole under the drivers seat, with the intake in the drivers side step.
The exhaust exits into the centre of the vehicle where the exhaust runs.
Dropping the tank, again easy just time consuming.
Don’t follow the instructions on the cutting of the fuel pickup pipe, it needs to be longer to accommodate the kink needed to clear the fuel sender unit gubbins.
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@Owain - The fitting was time consuming, but relatively straight forward.
I did manage to squeeze it under the drivers side and beneath the plastic trim. I have my fuel pump here too, and it all works really well. The hot air exits through the elongated hole under the drivers seat, with the intake in the drivers side step.
The exhaust exits into the centre of the vehicle where the exhaust runs.
Dropping the tank, again easy just time consuming.
Don’t follow the instructions on the cutting of the fuel pickup pipe, it needs to be longer to accommodate the kink needed to clear the fuel sender unit gubbins.
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View attachment 64432
Great photos of the installation, will help I am sure.
Mine is in the same place but all a bit more compact. I managed to get my hot air duct straight up to the seat outlet as I routed the exhaust right down the van to the next opening in a straight line.
I have a twin slider and wanted the fumes to come out further down the van.
My metering pump is mounted on the front bolt of the mounting plate which made the electrics shorter and the pressure fuel line also much shorter.
Lots of ways to skin this cat:thumbsup:
 
Well finally put in order. Should be here in a few days. Just need to order VW parts for routing hot air up b-piller. Where is "best" place to get vw parts; i hate to think what vw franchise would charge.

Have the parts list; attached. IMG_20200414_235714432.jpg
 
It comes with a control panel and timer, I paid extra for the modem which means you can control everything from the app. I never used the control panel on the T5, just switched it on all the time from the app. Had one installed last week on my T6 at Wrexham fitting centre.
Hi mate, how long did it take to fit?
 
Hi @Pink78
Dropped it off about 9 and they dropped me off in Wrexham as they are in the middle of nowhere. Picked me up about 1pm.
 
Hi @Pink78
Dropped it off about 9 and they dropped me off in Wrexham as they are in the middle of nowhere. Picked me up about 1pm.
Cheers John spoke to them today, and just asked what other people think as getting people saying Chinese copies are just as good. Did you get the 2k unit?
 
Cheers John spoke to them today, and just asked what other people think as getting people saying Chinese copies are just as good. Did you get the 2k unit?
Yes mate, they also fitted the 2kw unit in my T5. Very pleased with it
 
Just halfway through my Planar 2D installation today as it happens. Although it was bloody freezing outside under the van up here today.
It’s a standard under the van on the drivers side with a stainless steel bracket. Footstep inlet back of drivers seat base outlet. Fitted a Webasto 60mm joining tube under the seat to make the run into the cab neater.
Have fitted my metering pump on the forward heater mounting bolt which lines up neatly with in and out feed pipes.
Although this is against the Planar instructions which say the pump should be less than 1m from the pick up.
Have seen many pumps mounted close to the unit like this and don’t think it will be a problem.
Also this means the metering pump cable can be about 20cm long so I have trimmed it to length without regard for the warranty. Bit daft to drive round with 4 meters of fuel pump wiring tied up under the van.
Have also shortened the power supply loom as it was also over 4 meters long.

Anyone know why Planar fuse both sides of the power cable?
It was fitted with a 25amp fuse on live and return.

If anyone wants a photo of how it’s gone in I could get one tomorrow

Hi
I have just had a Planar heater fitted. Great bit of kit. The installer has left the 4M of power cable wrapped up under the seat!

can I ask what did you use to connect it up after shortening the cable? Did you just solder the cable or use something like a butt splice joint?

if you have a link to what you used that would be really helpful

thanks in advance
 
Take it back to the installers and tell them to shorten it and fit the correct connectors on the loom.

That should be normal practice for a professional installer! Some of these companies will do anything to save a couple of bob.
 
When i fitted i also shortened cables. And why fuses on both sides? Also why such a highly rated fuse; are they supplying the same fused loom whatever the heater they ship? What does manual say the maximum current for a 2d is? Well is that the fuse for a 8d or was that a 16400d. Just cutting corners/complications in the warehouse?

Not used in anger yet. Lets us see how often fuse blows when we really start using.
 
Hi
I have just had a Planar heater fitted. Great bit of kit. The installer has left the 4M of power cable wrapped up under the seat!

can I ask what did you use to connect it up after shortening the cable? Did you just solder the cable or use something like a butt splice joint?

if you have a link to what you used that would be really helpful

thanks in advance
It’s a while but if I remember it right. The power cable comes terminated with battery ring terminals to a double fuse holder which for some reason had fuses on both the power and return cables. Could see no reason why it should be and I simply cut the cable to the length I needed to get to my camper fuse box and terminated it directly with the correct fuse. Should be pretty easy to change if yours is connected direct to the battery and you have a spare fuse in a camper electrics fuse box.
If not you could just chop out a section and use butt splices, Its not great practice as there will be a voltage loss across the joint but the long cables not great either so in this case it might be worth it. The fuel pump also comes with a great long cable but it was unterminated and hopefully they have made that the right length when it was installed.
 
I just cut the cable and wired it directly to my fuse board. You could of course cut out section of cable and rejoin the supplied fuses but as others have said there is no need in having a fuse on the negative.
 
Take it back to the installers and tell them to shorten it and fit the correct connectors on the loom.

That should be normal practice for a professional installer! Some of these companies will do anything to save a couple of bob.
I agree they should have just shortened it.
But the plugs on the end are moulded at the factory so no way of replacing them? Or at least I cannot see how. Are the plugs available to your knowledge?

I am happy to chop the cable shorter, I was just asking what you used.
Thanks again
 
Let's have a picture of the connectors that would need replacing as I bet they are available somewhere.

The other option is to shorten the loom and splice the original end back on either with male & female connectors, Butt-Crimp connectors or solder & heat shrink.
 
Hi
I have just had a Planar heater fitted. Great bit of kit. The installer has left the 4M of power cable wrapped up under the seat!

can I ask what did you use to connect it up after shortening the cable? Did you just solder the cable or use something like a butt splice joint?

if you have a link to what you used that would be really helpful

thanks in advance

I was told by the supplier of mine that if I cut any cables the warranty would be void. I kept the shortest length under the drivers seat and drew the spare cable up below the vehicle and cable tied them out of the way, they can’t be seen under the plastic anyway.
 
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