Retrofit: Power fold mirror with fold on remote lock
- Thread starter steveph
- Start date
How it is when you lock the van and wait approx. 60 seconds to let the BCM fall asleep? Still glowing?
An eBay special
LED Round Reflector For Car Motorcycle ABS
LED Type: 3528 SMD LED
Number of LED Per Piece: 24
Voltage: 12 V
Power: 6 W
Current: 0.12 A
Brightness: 300LM
Color Temperature: 6500 - 8000K
Lifespan: 50000 hours
There are three wires: black, Blue and Red
* 50% light for small light
* 100% light for turn signal or brake light (same function as the 3rd brake light)
Black line→ cathode / Ground / Negative wire
Blue line→ small light (for 50% light) Positive wire
Red line→ turn signal or brake light (for 100% light) Positive wire.
Can you check your voltage across the wires in question when the door's closed? I can do the same when I tap in the other door tomorrow night.
Damn it, I literally finished up refitting the door card and I still didn't check whether the BCM timer is involved. I can't see why it would be though, as these are the lines to the central locking, and technically the line we are using for a ground is a signal going to the ecu to note whether the door is open, not a lighting system line coming from the main loom.
Which wire colours did you use?
I used the blue line, as the red line setting is too bright (and possibly would have pulled more current than expected). I think my multimeter is okay, by the way
EDIT:I used the blue line, as the red line setting is too bright (and possibly would have pulled more current than expected). I think my multimeter is okay, by the way
Try black and red and if you still not getting satisfying result try ordinary filament bulb(for testing purposes only).
Also this setup is completely off the BCM control and there is no expected current/load. Effectively you are using permanent +12V DC via additional local fuse and local GND which is being provided by door locking mechanism when the door is open.
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I don't have a problem with my light.
Does your setup deal with this voltage when the door is closed?
I think your problem is your light.
Did you try ordinary bulb?
My setup works like a charm.
Door open lights on, door closed lights off.
What's the voltage across your light when the door is closed?
0 V
If you are referring to the one from your photos I wouldn't trust a single reading from this "kind of instrument"....
I think my multimeter is okay, by the way
Did you try any other light/light bulb yet?
We'll have to agree to disagree on this one. My degree in electronics tells me that the voltage is not dependent on the bulb. It also makes sense that the door lock would send a 6V or 0V to the ecu as signal about the door state, and that is what I'm seeing on the multimeter, and on the output from the LEDs.
In any case, it's your risk on your van, not mine. I am happy with the situation on mine as the drain will be small and it's a daily drive. If I was to be parked up for a while not using it, I would worry about it. I may look to fit a relay at some point to sort it out.
Hey mate. I think you are missing the point altogether.
You have asked me for help so I am trying to help you but you are not willing to cooperate for some reason.
This is not about showing off who has higher degree in electronics (although it would be perfect opportunity for me).
If you know better then get the job done properly and show everybody your results.
This mod has been done successfully by me and few other people and no one had any glowing issues.
With your kind of case there are always 3 types of issues(installer making incorrect assumptions, wrong equipment/tools used, wrong/incorrect/unsuitable components used).
All you need to do, is simply eliminate and you will get to the bottom of this problem.
By allowing for these lights to stay on all the time you will most likely experience "quiescent current" problems and faults.
If you need more help/support I am happy to provide it.
You have asked me for help so I am trying to help you but you are not willing to cooperate for some reason.
This is not about showing off who has higher degree in electronics (although it would be perfect opportunity for me
).If you know better then get the job done properly and show everybody your results.
This mod has been done successfully by me and few other people and no one had any glowing issues.
With your kind of case there are always 3 types of issues(installer making incorrect assumptions, wrong equipment/tools used, wrong/incorrect/unsuitable components used).
All you need to do, is simply eliminate and you will get to the bottom of this problem.
By allowing for these lights to stay on all the time you will most likely experience "quiescent current" problems and faults.
If you need more help/support I am happy to provide it.
So it comes down to a problem, my van is giving a voltage on the black wire that yours is not. I don't think we can resolve that. The lights are irrelevant to that. A normal bulb would simply glow too, don't you agree?
Edit: it could be worse, we could be having a barny like this lot:https://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/threads/voltage-drop-when-drivers-door-opened.865241/page-4
Edit: it could be worse, we could be having a barny like this lot:
https://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/threads/voltage-drop-when-drivers-door-opened.865241/page-4
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Actually, you still could do that. Having door open just use a screwdriver to latch the door lock "closed", and then lock the van using the FOB and wait a minute. BCM uses the line to poll door status (open/closed) but should do that less frequently being asleep so I'd expect to see a difference then.
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