Thanks, that's interesting. Would be interesting to see the voltages if you pop out the puddle light and show the signals. Perhaps I need to get my van fixed
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Thanks, that's interesting. Would be interesting to see the voltages if you pop out the puddle light and show the signals. Perhaps I need to get my van fixed
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Perhaps I need to get my van fixed
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With your kind of case there are always 3 types of issues(installer making incorrect assumptions, wrong equipment/tools used, wrong/incorrect/unsuitable components used).
All you need to do, is simply eliminate and you will get to the bottom of this problem.
By allowing for these lights to stay on all the time you will most likely experience "quiescent current" problems and faults.
If you need more help/support I am happy to provide it.
I did test the voltages against the main gnd on the door. Thanks for your helpMate, you have stop making assumptions and start verification. In order to get this sorted you have to proceed with elimination methodology.
I am not there so I won't be able to do much but you can.
1.Try different light on your wiring.
2. Use different +12V on your existing setup.
3. Use different 0V( any local GND point).
I am pretty sure that once you do that you will be wiser and you will achieve some progress.
Shouldn't you actually measure the voltage across your load, that is permanent +12V feed and "floating" door switch line (black wire on RHS, black/brown on LHS)?I did test the voltages against the main gnd on the door. Thanks for your help
The +ve 5.5V was the potential difference between the red / white at 12V and the black (or black / brown on n/s) with the door closed. With the door open, the potential difference was 12V (see picture for exact voltages). This was measured without the load attached.Shouldn't you actually measure the voltage across your load, that is permanent +12V feed and "floating" door switch line (black wire on RHS, black/brown on LHS)?
Just to clarify, did you measure the 5.5V against the ground when LEDs were dimly lit, or without load (open circuit)?
Thanks.The +ve 5.5V was the potential difference between the red / white at 12V and the black (or black / brown on n/s) with the door closed. With the door open, the potential difference was 12V (see picture for exact voltages). This was measured without the load attached.
In light of what we've discovered, yes. The only downside is the lights on the door that is not opened will light up as well.Not the same but I’ve feed my outside sidebar puddle lights off the same circuit that powers my footwell lights. These come on when I unlock the van or open the door. Would this not be a good circuit to fed from for your lights?
To get power fold mirrors with fold on remote lock on T6 there are generally speaking two ways.
OPTION 1 (OEM)
Parts required:
- 2 off power folding mirrors (7E2857508DG & 7E2857507DB)
- 2 off door control modules (7E0959801L & 7E0959802L)
- 5 off pre crimped wire 000979009E
- 1 off 7E1959565K mirror switch with folding
Wiring:
Driver door(2 wires from folding motor to door control unit pins 14 & 15 and 1 wire from folding switch pin 8 to door control unit pin 12)
Passenger door(2 wires from folding motor to door control unit pins 14 & 15)
VCDS Coding:
How to Program folding mirrors - Pictogram
Cost:
Approximately £600
Functionality:
Mirrors fold when folding switch is in fold position and ignition is ON.
After VCDS coding mirrors fold on remote lock but long press is required.
Unfold when ignition in switched ON.
OPTION 2 (aftermarket)
Parts required:
- 2 off power folding mirrors (7E2857508DG & 7E2857507DB)
or
- 2 off power folding motors only
- 1 off mirror folding control module(made in China, £5 on Ebay)
- 1 off pre crimped wire 000979009E to get signal form door mirror folding switch
- 1 off 7E1959565K mirror switch with folding
Wiring:
View attachment 30308
VCDS Coding:
None.
Cost:
Approximately £250 - £300
Functionality:
Mirrors fold when folding switch is in fold position and ignition is ON.
Mirrors fold on remote lock.
Mirrors unfold when unlocked or when ignition is switched ON(can be chosen by connecting or not unlocking signal).
Obviously I picked option 2 and used folding motors kit with LED blinkers.
Best functionality and best value for money.
Yes you can install folding motors only. Very simple installation.This is awesome info @Robert.
I currently just have the standard mirrors that I have to manually fold up. Do the motor modules fit and work in these units? MY2019. I was under the impression I would need to buy complete units which has been putting me off a bit, but hadn't noticed the 'motor' only method previously.
Thanks