Hi Paul
Definitely interested in the sliding door power latching kit. Would take the cables under the floor and take the 12v supply from the leisure battery. What’s the next step? How do I pay? My van is a T6 2016 reg.
Power Latching Retrofit Kits
- Thread starter Pauly
- Start date
Definitely interested in the sliding door power latching kit. Would take the cables under the floor and take the 12v supply from the leisure battery. What’s the next step? How do I pay? My van is a T6 2016 reg.
xkdw
New Member
Ah, thanks for the pointer. Some other users seem to have installed the Kufatec kit, maybe they could shed some light...?
Hi I'm after a SLD loom if they are still available? I've got the module and the motor for the latch I just need the loom.
Hi Pauly I don’t suppose you now anywhere I could get the larger control module from do you part no 7E0959234D got one on back and it’s January 2025 a used one would be ok
Thanks Mark.
Evening folks, a slightly overdue follow-up after fitting my sliding door power latching kit from @Pauly ....if you're in two minds about whether to or not, my 2p worth would be just to do it. It sounds a minor thing, getting rid of the swoosh-bang, but even on my driveway when I need to get something from the van late in the evening, it's so much less cringe-worthy than having to slam that door shut. Not stayed on a campsite since installing but it's going to be great not feeling like the piss-devil himself when going for a late night wazz.
Thanks also to Paul for talking me through what's required, very helpful. The kit isn't difficult to install if you're familiar with taking stuff apart and can do basic electrical installs. As Paul said to me, the hardest bit is just disconnecting and reconnecting one of the harness plugs into the existing door opening handle assemblies...patience, long thin screwdrivers and a cuppa....eyeball what you're trying to push to disconnect, then do it by feel to unlatch the 2w connector....no real trick, just have a few goes and you'll find a knack that works for you. Pulling away and down the white plastic water drain cover is well worth doing, just make sure the mastic sealing strip is ok when refitting back to the door skin.
The two additional VW latch and motor parts are simplicity themselves, literally minutes to install (you'll need a 12-point spline bit to undo the latch assy on the back of the door, not a regular 6-pt torx bit). The only other thing to do is to run the supplied +ve wire from Pin2 in the B pillar (the connector that plugs into the electrical receiving "socket" that the sliding door goes into) to a permanent live, fused supply. In my case there was a mostly empty bank of blade fuse sockets under the passenger seat (2023 T6.1 T28 Highline). Tessataped it alongside an existing harness down behind the B-pillar trim after unbolting the bottom of the seatbelt, and under the carpet to the seat area.
My approach was to strip the sliding door the night before; mine was insulated and sound deadened, and has a stowed folding table in it, so all that needed removing to access the electrical units and the factory harness. Having had a look and see where everything was to go, I then got to it properly the next morning. Bulk of the work was the Sat morning and it took no longer than 3hrs including removing the passenger seat to run that power wire.
I took a load of photos and sent over to Paul, for inclusion in a some kind of instructional doc that I think he'll include in future kits, just to save him answering the same questions each time!
It still makes me smile each time I shut the door, best upgrade so far.
Thanks also to Paul for talking me through what's required, very helpful. The kit isn't difficult to install if you're familiar with taking stuff apart and can do basic electrical installs. As Paul said to me, the hardest bit is just disconnecting and reconnecting one of the harness plugs into the existing door opening handle assemblies...patience, long thin screwdrivers and a cuppa....eyeball what you're trying to push to disconnect, then do it by feel to unlatch the 2w connector....no real trick, just have a few goes and you'll find a knack that works for you. Pulling away and down the white plastic water drain cover is well worth doing, just make sure the mastic sealing strip is ok when refitting back to the door skin.
The two additional VW latch and motor parts are simplicity themselves, literally minutes to install (you'll need a 12-point spline bit to undo the latch assy on the back of the door, not a regular 6-pt torx bit). The only other thing to do is to run the supplied +ve wire from Pin2 in the B pillar (the connector that plugs into the electrical receiving "socket" that the sliding door goes into) to a permanent live, fused supply. In my case there was a mostly empty bank of blade fuse sockets under the passenger seat (2023 T6.1 T28 Highline). Tessataped it alongside an existing harness down behind the B-pillar trim after unbolting the bottom of the seatbelt, and under the carpet to the seat area.
My approach was to strip the sliding door the night before; mine was insulated and sound deadened, and has a stowed folding table in it, so all that needed removing to access the electrical units and the factory harness. Having had a look and see where everything was to go, I then got to it properly the next morning. Bulk of the work was the Sat morning and it took no longer than 3hrs including removing the passenger seat to run that power wire.
I took a load of photos and sent over to Paul, for inclusion in a some kind of instructional doc that I think he'll include in future kits, just to save him answering the same questions each time!
It still makes me smile each time I shut the door, best upgrade so far.
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Very interested in this as an upgrade, if you don't mind me asking what sort of price are we looking at?
