thanks m8 probally run in the floor then 
Power Latching Retrofit Kits
- Thread starter Pauly
- Start date
Martyn Dyer
New Member
Hi,
I've just received my van which was ordered with power latching tailgate and side door but it was a misbuild by VW and they forgot to install power latching to the side door. They have advised it can't be retro fitted probably because it's in the "too difficult to answer" category so your solution sounds great. I had the van converted literally straight away after picking it up so this wasn't initially identified. Can you please advise where the tie in to the wiring loom is as now the conversion is completed access is difficult. If it is all local to the locking mechanism this is perfect. Thanks a lot
Tailgate and left side door control modules live in the rear left panel directly above/behind the nearside wheel arch. A 12 v positive supply is required at the control modules.
From this location there is a piece of the loom that goes to each power latching motor, the latch motor replaces your existing striker plate so one set of wires goes down and out the rear and runs under the rear tailgate threshold strip on the floor (a replacement threshold is part of the kit) and the other runs forwards inside the rear panel to the left latch plate (behind rear passenger seatbelt) and all these connections are pre-terminated/pre-plugged.
The sensing/door switch cables are the only piece of the kit that run away from this area, the tailgate wires go straight up into the roof and interrupt a cable in the main roof loom that runs along the nearside of van front to back so it can be picked up just before the tailgate area, the side door cable that needs interrupting is underneath the passenger seat, this is the trickiest part getting the cables there although the cable that you need to interrupt basically goes from the BCM to the door switch on the back of the B pillar so you could pick it up anywhere along its length if access is limited in one particular spot.
Control module location does not have to be inside the rear panel that is just how VW do it so we make the kit in the style as if it were factory fitted along with module mounting brackets etc but it can be changed to fit your needs although it would be tricky to produce a finished wiring loom without knowing exact locations/lengths of cables.
Feel free to send me a PM with your number if you would like to discuss this further
No coding is required its a stand alone system basically and once connected and powered it works
Dselec
New Member
I already have both sliding doors as power latching but the van came without rear even though I selected it, would this be just a plug and play for this or would I still have to cut in to the loom for the Live supply ?
Stirke that... just read page two where you answer the question.
Will get saving as my list of bits to do is ever growing....
Stirke that... just read page two where you answer the question.
Will get saving as my list of bits to do is ever growing....
OK so the control module doesn't connect to the rest of the van, the kit just needs power?
Its stand alone in that it doesnt affect any other systems on the van but you do have to interrupt the door switch negative return cable which routes it through the new control module so it knows when the door is open/closed to activate the motor so not 100% stand alone if that makes sense, when you cut the cable to join onto it the van will see this as the door being opened
I am referring to it as a control module its basically a glorified relay, it cannot be programmed or anything like that and does not connect to the canbus
I am referring to it as a control module its basically a glorified relay, it cannot be programmed or anything like that and does not connect to the canbus
That's what prompted me to do it, pull up in van to get kids, they get in shut door does t close properly and child locks stop them from having another go so you have to get out and walk around to close it jump back in drivers seat and start stop is pissed off because you have opened door so you have to key off and back on again to start engine, was getting very frustrating
Its hard to quantify force, you do have to engage the first click of the latch so you do still need to push the door forwards but the force required is much lower than the force required to fully shut it without power latching
If you try it on your van you should see what i mean, push the door gently but hard enough to engage that first click on the striker plate this will give you an idea what i mean and how much force is required
A few others have had these and fitted it perhaps they can give some opinions ?
@VWJAY
@andythom188
@Alan Walsh
If you try it on your van you should see what i mean, push the door gently but hard enough to engage that first click on the striker plate this will give you an idea what i mean and how much force is required
A few others have had these and fitted it perhaps they can give some opinions ?
@VWJAY
@andythom188
@Alan Walsh
As Pauly says, (I've only had mine on for a day!) but what a difference, although for me the real revelation is the tailgate. I use my van as a van so am in and out of the back and I was starting to lose the plot with having to slam the tailgate shut, with the power latching I just pull the door to about 10" and the weight of the door does the rest.
