Hi All

Would 70mm and 90mm M6 threaded bar work, or is that 5mm recommend in an earlier thread critical? Im fitting an OEM bar.

I have managed to find threaded bar in these lengths for less than a tenner, and saves the faff of cutting the bar, repairing the threads etc.
 
Hi All

Would 70mm and 90mm M6 threaded bar work, or is that 5mm recommend in an earlier thread critical? Im fitting an OEM bar.

I have managed to find threaded bar in these lengths for less than a tenner, and saves the faff of cutting the bar, repairing the threads etc.
From memory i cut the bar 70mm for front and back and 100mm for middle, took a while to get the right amount of bar sticking up from the roof to go through the rail and give enough thread for the bolt to go on without being too long to fit the rubber top caps.
For the OMTEC bars I had 20mm ish threaded into the van roof then measurements of bar protruding above the gutter was as follows:
45mm front, 70mm middle and 55mm rear. This will obviously differ depending on your setup but hopefully will be a starting point. Top tip check the fit several times with all 3 bits of bar in the roof before you put any of the nuts on as its a PITA to take them off. I used a small shim of paper to hold the nut securely in the socket when lowering the socket down in the hole in the top of the rail, onto the threaded bar.

Regarding the stainless bar, i just cut it with a hacksaw and put a nut on and off the cut end, no issues with deformation of the thread at all
Good luck!
 
I've got the rails fitted already via factory method but am fitting some lightning leisure awning rails so will convert to this method shortly. can i ask what cross bars yo are using. I've seen some are purely cosmetic but id like some that can be used to take a bit of weight too.

thank you
Hi could you possibly let me know how you got on with the lightning leisure awning rails? Looking at installing one under my roof rails and using a stitches & steel awning. Thank you very much
 
What do you need to know? I have the LL rail and used this method just fine.

just use one of the original rubber washera over the stud bar flush on the roof, then the rail, then the roofers washer, then nut, then roof bars.
 
Hi all , well I only found time today to try this method & failed. Says a lot about my skills as you all managed ok! I’ve re read I see my mistake I hadn’t realised the threaded bolt can go in much further so I didn’t have enough length. I understand the trick now, I.e. put nylon nut on correct disctance first, but my question is which the threaded bolt going in further what does it eventually strike up against, the ceiling or some kind of blanking plate?
 
Hi all , well I only found time today to try this method & failed. Says a lot about my skills as you all managed ok! I’ve re read I see my mistake I hadn’t realised the threaded bolt can go in much further so I didn’t have enough length. I understand the trick now, I.e. put nylon nut on correct disctance first, but my question is which the threaded bolt going in further what does it eventually strike up against, the ceiling or some kind of blanking plate?
It buts up against the inner frame of the van. If inserted too far there’s still no chance of seeing anything poking through inside.
 
It buts up against the inner frame of the van. If inserted too far there’s still no chance of seeing anything poking through inside.
I assumed about 18mm length into the van to ensure the bar is fully through the nut in the van
 
I assumed about 18mm length into the van to ensure the bar is fully through the nut in the van
Thanks for the i fo I was worried a bit I may have caused damage . Good tip re 18mm. Out of interest when screwing on the nylon nut how do you prevent the threaded bolt from turning?
 
Thanks for the i fo I was worried a bit I may have caused damage . Good tip re 18mm. Out of interest when screwing on the nylon nut how do you prevent the threaded bolt from turning?
Put two nylock nuts on the bar just above the roof washer, that will lock it off
 
of course no probs.

not got round to fitting yet just waiting for the weather to pick up a bit
Do you know which awning you will use yet? I had planned to use Stitches & Steel one but they have just advised their awning won't work without kador adapter
 
Do you know which awning you will use yet? I had planned to use Stitches & Steel one but they have just advised their awning won't work without kador adapter
I got the kador strip and adaptor from lightning leisure when I got the rails
I have bought a S@S awning, I’m now hoping they are compatible
 
I’ll be trying this when fitting mine later this week, threaded bar and nylon nuts ordered
Oh please help what do I need a threaded bar and nylon nuts for? I have roof bars, bought Lightning Leisure awning rail to fit under and was hoping just needed S+S awning which I ordered today
 
Got some ebay roof rails and did not want to gorm silicone into and around the fixing holes.

Instead I got some M6 threaded bar cut a little longer than the bolts supplied with the rails. I then used the rubber washers that came off the blanking bolts together with a washer and M6 nyloc nut.
This then fixes into the holes on the roof and seals it the same as the original blanking bolt.
I then simply used a washer and nyloc nut to fix the roof rails to the threaded studs.
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Brilliant post thanks, wish I’d researched this before I fitted my aftermarkets to my T6 I’ve just noticed is pissing water down the inside of the B - post !! I’ll be pulling them off tomorrow!!
 
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Brilliant post thanks, wish I’d researched this before I fitted my aftermarkets to my T6 I’ve just noticed is pissing water down the inside of the B - post !! I’ll be pulling them off tomorrow!!
Hi I’m across same post when my VW ones started leaking. I carried out the threaded bar / nylon nut procedure last weekend. I used flanged nylocs nuts to remove another weakness as per later in thread but a little nervous as the diameter is smaller so not getting pressure on entire diameter of washer. I considered adding larger metal washer but then a weakness between flanged nyloc nut and metal washer. So I’ll see how this fairs. Let’s be honest this week been a real test!

VW should be correcting this design fault really
 
Morning all - looking for help please?

Issue - I have a leak on my T6 ever since I fitted some Roofbars that I got from VanStyle: Satin Black Aluminium Roof Rail Bars - VW T5 T6 03 SWB LWB - Vanstyle

I can see the fix in the thread but as I am slightly thick, I have some questions to clarify what to do please?

1. I have purchased some M6 100mm SS threaded bolts, some M6 (6mm) SS Nyloc nuts and some EPDM 16mm Rubber and SS roofing washers.
2. I am going to take the cross-bars and the roof rail bars off the van and take out the screws/washers that came with the bars.
3. I am going to cut 4 x M6 bolts to about 75mm for the 2 x Front and 2 x Rear holes with a hacksaw.
4. I am going to cut 2 x M6 bolts to about 95mm for the 2 x middle holes with a hacksaw.
5. Then concentrating on the middle first, I will then put a nyloc nut on the M6 bolt and screw the bolt into the hole up to about 20-25mm after putting a rubber washer on the end.
6. This should leave about 70mm of screw sticking up.
7. I will then repeat the above process for the rear and the front leaving about 45mm for the front and 55mm for the rear sticking up.
8. This would have used 6 x M6 bolts, 6 x Nyloc Nuts and 6 x Roofing washers. I will probably then spray some waterproof sealant around the base of each washer (just to make sure!)
9. I will then put the plastic roof rail spacers over each screw and then sit the roof rail bars on top.
10. I will then add another washer and nyloc nut to each screw and then tighten these to hold the roof rails tightly in place; this will use an additional 6 nyloc nuts and 6 washers

Total equipment needed = 6 M6 bolts cut to desired length. 12 M6 Nyloc nuts (1 into the van, 1 into the roof bars on each screw). 12 rubber/SS washers (1 in between van and nyloc nut, 1 in between roof bar and nyloc nut on each screw).

Q1 - Is the above the correct process to do this?
Q2 - My roof rails have a small space to get an allen-key/screwdriver in to tighten the original screws, now I will be tightening a nyloc nut - what would you use to tighten (socket, spanner?)
Q3 - how careful do I have to be when cutting the bolts, is there a knack to making sure you don't mess up the thread?
Q4 - what's the deal with people talking about paper/card holding the screws in place?

Grateful for any help or advice please - I essentially could do without water dripping out of my reading light and on to my stereo every time it rains heavily!
 
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