Seat Base Electric + EHU + Solar Install + Charger + DC-DC -- How We Done it --
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
Yep much thinner than my CETEK and I liked the fact that Renogy specify 8AWG for the cable from the starter battery to the seat base which meant I could reuse my existing cable from my CETEK set up. I have used the Renogy app to change the maximum input to 30 amps combined as I currently only have a AGM leisure battery - when that goes I'll upgrade to a lithium.
It will probably fit physically but these things normally like ventilation and even a 500 watt inverter could be sinking 40 plus amps at 13 volts so producing some heat.
360ian
Member
Hi all, so my next project for the van is to install all the electrics. I bought the kit from Rayne Automotive and under my drivers seat I plan to have;
AGM 110 Leisure Battery
Victron Orion DC to DC Charger
Victron MPPT controller
Victron Battery Protect
And the positive and negative bus bars.
It’s a lot! Any recommendations as to the best way of fitting it all in? I have bought the Kiravans brackets to hold a board under the seat so that should help me mount stuff.
Also where does everyone install their 12V fuse boards? Should I look to put it in one of the cupboards in the back as trying to get that under the seat looks near on impossible with everything else!
Photo of the little amount I’ve done so far!
Thanks in advance.
AGM 110 Leisure Battery
Victron Orion DC to DC Charger
Victron MPPT controller
Victron Battery Protect
And the positive and negative bus bars.
It’s a lot! Any recommendations as to the best way of fitting it all in? I have bought the Kiravans brackets to hold a board under the seat so that should help me mount stuff.
Also where does everyone install their 12V fuse boards? Should I look to put it in one of the cupboards in the back as trying to get that under the seat looks near on impossible with everything else!
Photo of the little amount I’ve done so far!
Thanks in advance.
Everything you have is Lithium capable and an equivalent raw capacity LiFePo will be smaller and have more usable capacity than the AGM, will make things much easier.
Bags of room there!
Be aware of the currents involved with the various bits of kit and cable sizes required.
Under my driver's seat I've got a Renogy DCC50S for the b2b and mppt combined, a small fuse board for the fridge and Webasto, bigger fuses for the battery the inverter (mounted on fridge cupboard) the solar input and feed in from the starter battery plus the feed in from an external Victron lithium charger again mounted on the side of the fridge cupboard behind the drivers seat.
The shunt is under the seat too plus the battery isolator on the seatbase front... it's tight and a lot of the bits are floating!
Be aware of the currents involved with the various bits of kit and cable sizes required.
Under my driver's seat I've got a Renogy DCC50S for the b2b and mppt combined, a small fuse board for the fridge and Webasto, bigger fuses for the battery the inverter (mounted on fridge cupboard) the solar input and feed in from the starter battery plus the feed in from an external Victron lithium charger again mounted on the side of the fridge cupboard behind the drivers seat.
The shunt is under the seat too plus the battery isolator on the seatbase front... it's tight and a lot of the bits are floating!
360ian
Member
Thank you for the photos, very useful to see what others have done! Back to the drawing board on my set up but I think I have it sussed now!Bags of room there!
Be aware of the currents involved with the various bits of kit and cable sizes required.
Under my driver's seat I've got a Renogy DCC50S for the b2b and mppt combined, a small fuse board for the fridge and Webasto, bigger fuses for the battery the inverter (mounted on fridge cupboard) the solar input and feed in from the starter battery plus the feed in from an external Victron lithium charger again mounted on the side of the fridge cupboard behind the drivers seat.
The shunt is under the seat too plus the battery isolator on the seatbase front... it's tight and a lot of the bits are floating!
View attachment 237796
360ian
Member
I plan to go down the Lithium route which is why I specced it with the kit I have. Unfortunately funds dont stretch as far as a lithium battery this year due to our impending wedding! Defo on the list for next years upgrades though!
You'll get there and congratulations
That's the best way to do it, just check which way around the potential LiFePO4 battery has it's terminals, you might find they're the opposite to your AGM which makes putting wiring in with the plan to upgrade, tricky! Also, ring terminals for the battery terminals, as you don't want to be re crimping a battery cable under the seat.
If you spec everything for your planned LiFePO4 battery then when the time comes, you should be able to just lift out the old battery and put the new one in.
Maybe put a fogstar drift seatbase battery on the wedding gift list?
We're trying to save Ian some space here Paul, not use all the space possible and cause a first married discussion when the credit card bill arrives...
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