Should I ditch the Sargent? Please help

What rating is your current panel?

You also need to consider EHU charging. You will need to disable the "charger" in the Sargent - it won't charge a LiFePo

If you mostly do off grid and charge from driving or solar then that may not be an issue but otherwise you'll need to add an EHU charger, maybe a Victron, and you'll need to find a place to wire that into the EHU mains (downstream of the breakers)
I’m not sure what rating the panel is. And I would still want EHU charging
I will start researching all these bits I need to buy and dare say I will have more questions.
Thanks for all your help so far.
 
@The Flying Scotsman here’s my 240v and 12v install my van is a 6 seater day van with Van King bed and sliding tray, I’ve built a plywood box covered with stretch carpet, I've installed a camping 240 system, 2 100ah lithium batteries, buss bars, fuses, Victron 30 amp charger, 1500watt pure sign wave remote control inverter which I’ve wired 2 external sockets from on 3 pin plugs plus battery isolation switch.
I’ve also installed fuse boxes which feed my diesel heater, interior lights, 12 volt sockets and usb sockets around my van.
I’ve also fitted a Victron MPPT solar controller with Anderson connectors so I can just plug in my 200watt portable solar panels to Either charge the batteries or my 1000watt Jackery power station. I have also got under my drivers seat a 30 amp Sterling B to B .
I’ve installed this system as we run a portable Alpicool TWW35 fridge, my CPAP machine, a low wattage kettle and a small slow cooker, we have a Berghaus air awning and we do all our cooking and living in that and use the van for sleeping and change of clothing.

John.

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@The Flying Scotsman here’s my 240v and 12v install my van is a 6 seater day van with Van King bed and sliding tray, I’ve built a plywood box covered with stretch carpet, I've installed a camping 240 system, 2 100ah lithium batteries, buss bars, fuses, Victron 30 amp charger, 1500watt pure sign wave remote control inverter which I’ve wired 2 external sockets from on 3 pin plugs plus battery isolation switch.
I’ve also installed fuse boxes which feed my diesel heater, interior lights, 12 volt sockets and usb sockets around my van.
I’ve also fitted a Victron MPPT solar controller with Anderson connectors so I can just plug in my 200watt portable solar panels to Either charge the batteries or my 1000watt Jackery power station. I have also got under my drivers seat a 30 amp Sterling B to B .
I’ve installed this system as we run a portable Alpicool TWW35 fridge, my CPAP machine, a low wattage kettle and a small slow cooker, we have a Berghaus air awning and we do all our cooking and living in that and use the van for sleeping and change of clothing.

John.

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Thanks that looks a decent set up.
What I think I will up doing is sorting my 12v system so it runs for longer and then buy a stand alone inverter that I will just charge before I leave if I’m going to use 240 plug ins.
Think I would rather have 1 or 2 lithiums and a decent solar system for the van then the portable inverter power station thing later if I decide I need one.
 
I was surprised at the cable thickness also.
I’ve got a fair bit good power wire from when I installed big power audio installations with several ampliers. So will look at upgrading the cables myself.
Just make sure that audio cable you have isn’t CCA cable as that is not suitable for such use as I found out. See 'Earth lead corrosion leading to inverter not working'
Earth lead corrosion leading to inverter not working
 
If it was me I’d get rid of the Sargent and start again. All the faff of trying to disable the dc-dc charger and the 240v charger etc would just drive me daft.
Surely it’s easier to get a 12v fuse panel and a pre made switch panel and rewire your current 12v stuff to it.
240v hookup cable and consumer unit etc only
costs about £60 to put in.
I see Fogstar are now doing a 230ah seat base lifepo4 battery for £800.


Get a decent dc-dc charger, but as your wiring is already geared towards a seperate MPPT controller I wouldn’t bother paying the extra for a dc-dc with that built in. That should get you up and running and you could still use your existing solar panel for now with a new MPPT controller.
Upgrade solar at a later date and install AC battery charger at a later date (but run the EHU cable when you have it stripped out for the dc-dc install).
 
If it was me I’d get rid of the Sargent and start again. All the faff of trying to disable the dc-dc charger and the 240v charger etc would just drive me daft.
Surely it’s easier to get a 12v fuse panel and a pre made switch panel and rewire your current 12v stuff to it.
240v hookup cable and consumer unit etc only
costs about £60 to put in.
I see Fogstar are now doing a 230ah seat base lifepo4 battery for £800.


Get a decent dc-dc charger, but as your wiring is already geared towards a seperate MPPT controller I wouldn’t bother paying the extra for a dc-dc with that built in. That should get you up and running and you could still use your existing solar panel for now with a new MPPT controller.
Upgrade solar at a later date and install AC battery charger at a later date (but run the EHU cable when you have it stripped out for the dc-dc install).
As my old technical drawing teacher would say, 'Rub it out, do it again'. Flash, listen to your uncle Si! Just sell a couple of your special rods and you'll have the money!
 
All the faff of trying to disable the dc-dc charger and the 240v charger etc would just drive me daft.
On the EC155 disabling the charger is pulling one fuse out of the front panel.

You can use the split charge relay as an ignition signal for the DC-DC engine run - or you can crop off a single resistor to disable it and use the DC-DC engine run algorithm if you prefer.

That's quite minimal change if you are broadly happy with the Sargent handling of the 240v and 12v distribution but just want to get better charging or switch to lithium; compared to replacing all that, especially if you have a fitted remote control panel as well.

The other Sargent units that are not so adaptable I'd verge more towards to replacement.

Certainly not advocating against replacing it if that's what you want to do but your Sargent is at least somewhat designed to work with DC-DC (albeit usually an AGM)
 
On the EC155 disabling the charger is pulling one fuse out of the front panel.

You can use the split charge relay as an ignition signal for the DC-DC engine run - or you can crop off a single resistor to disable it and use the DC-DC engine run algorithm if you prefer.

That's quite minimal change if you are broadly happy with the Sargent handling of the 240v and 12v distribution but just want to get better charging or switch to lithium; compared to replacing all that, especially if you have a fitted remote control panel as well.

The other Sargent units that are not so adaptable I'd verge more towards to replacement.

Certainly not advocating against replacing it if that's what you want to do but your Sargent is at least somewhat designed to work with DC-DC (albeit usually an AGM)
Aah thought it was more to it than that. I remember helping my mate remove the Sargent unit from his van so he could start again as it was the best option.
My bad.
I’d still go the seat base 230ah with decent dc-dc and an mppt controller.
 
I don’t believe the split charge relay is integral to the Sargent, if I remember correctly mine was standalone by the battery and apart from the need to upgrade the cabling (can’t remember if this was due to the config change or insufficient from the conversion) the switch to a dc-dc was almost a direct swap.

I also remember Mr D Massive saying that due the the realistic voltage from the main charger at the battery (~12v) a decent main charger can just be connected in parallel as the battery bms will ignore this. If it’s just a case of pulling a fuse then you may as well pull it but just saying
 
On the EC155 disabling the charger is pulling one fuse out of the front panel.

You can use the split charge relay as an ignition signal for the DC-DC engine run - or you can crop off a single resistor to disable it and use the DC-DC engine run algorithm if you prefer.

That's quite minimal change if you are broadly happy with the Sargent handling of the 240v and 12v distribution but just want to get better charging or switch to lithium; compared to replacing all that, especially if you have a fitted remote control panel as well.

The other Sargent units that are not so adaptable I'd verge more towards to replacement.

Certainly not advocating against replacing it if that's what you want to do but your Sargent is at least somewhat designed to work with DC-DC (albeit usually an AGM)
Thanks.
This is sounding like the route I’m going to take.
I’m happy enough with the Sargent controlling the 12v and 240 and I have got a control panel attached to it.
I like Big Si’s idea of keeping my current solar panel just now and up grading the charger to MPPT.
Upgrading the panel is something I can do later.
Under seat is no use as my diesel heater pipes are under my seat.
But got plenty room for a big chunky lithium battery where the current LB lives. Although going to fashion a tie down strap for it.
 
Post in thread 'Fitting a battery charger with a Sargent EC155'
Fitting a battery charger with a Sargent EC155

I actually successfully found something with the search function! o_O
Will check it out thanks.
I too have very limited success with the search function.
It can get frustrating when you are directed to a previous thread that’s like 100 pages long.
Your head is fried before you get near the info you are after.
 
Found it first go, shocking the skills I have these days!

So straight swap for the mttp, theoretically a straight swap for the dc-dc charger (albeit while taking into account the cabling for this may need upgrading) and bypass the charging in the Sargent and fit a decent charger direct to the battery (existing cabling is redundant then from the Sargent so no need to upgrade as such), and of course a battery :thumbsup:

If done in this way you can even do this one step at a time as money and time allows. Upgrading the solar controller and the dc-dc charger and even the EHU charger should give you benefits straight away before you then bite the bullet and buy a battery
 
Found it first go, shocking the skills I have these days!

So straight swap for the mttp, theoretically a straight swap for the dc-dc charger (albeit while taking into account the cabling for this may need upgrading) and bypass the charging in the Sargent and fit a decent charger direct to the battery (existing cabling is redundant then from the Sargent so no need to upgrade as such), and of course a battery :thumbsup:

If done in this way you can even do this one step at a time as money and time allows. Upgrading the solar controller and the dc-dc charger and even the EHU charger should give you benefits straight away before you then bite the bullet and buy a battery
Sounds like a great plan thanks
 
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