Slow to heat up

I've noticed on my 204 engine. (T6)

If you leave it ticking over from cold.... It will stay cold as ice.

It's only when you start driving that it will warm up and site a 90C.

These engines have a crazy complicated cooling system.
Thanks. I am glad that you said this because I don't want to look stupid by telling a dealer that I thought it had a fault, only to find it doesn't.

I am amazed that the vehicle cools down noticeably when on tick over though! never experienced that on a vehicle before!
 
Thanks. I am glad that you said this because I don't want to look stupid by telling a dealer that I thought it had a fault, only to find it doesn't.

I am amazed that the vehicle cools down noticeably when on tick over though! never experienced that on a vehicle before!
Mines the same, the heater matrix takes more heat out than the engine puts in to the coolant on idle, which when you consider, the space inside the van your trying to heat makes sense.

You'd never notice on a car as the internal volume is probably a quarter?

The best way to get around it is treat it like an old car, first few miles of driving, leave the heater turned off, once it's up to temp turn it on then and it holds no bother. Probably saves 5 mins of the engine getting up to temp with the heaters completely off :thumbsup:
 
it was -1.5 degrees this morning and after 8 miles of gentle driving I decided that I was still cold from the pathetically oil air being blown at me, as a consequence of the coolant temperature having only risen to approx 60 degrees.
To me sounds normal at subzero temperatures - if your van does not have auxiliary coolant heater. Do you have Webasto sticker on driver's door? If you do have the sticker, the auxiliary coolant heater doesn't work.
 
150 T6, 5 mile commute, any cold outside temperature and its at 90`C (just) by the time i park it for example. I do hold it in a lower gear to help it warm up a bit quicker, but the gauge is climbing all the time.
 
I can't see anyone putting a sticker on to remind you to switch off the heater at refuelling without a heater being fitted. Look the other side for an air heater.
 
There must be additional controls on the dash or in the upper cubby hole?
 
Thinking about it..... I'm wondering if my converters stuck the sticker on when the van had the diesel heater fitted! I'll have another look under the van tomorrow.
As a matter of interest, I assume that these aux coolant heaters work without any interaction from the driver?
 
check this out . . . - https://www.t6forum.com/threads/vw-vag-ssp-self-study-programs.11179/


SSP564 - T6 2.0L Derv Engine


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edit:

it mentions - 2/3-way valve (thermostatic 65 - 75 °C)

When the engine is cold, coolant circulates from the coolant pump (6) through the oil cooler (4), the cylinder head, the cylinder block and the heat exchanger for heater (3). The 2/3-way bleeder valve (16) is opened. It closes at a coolant temperature of 49 °C. When the engine has reached operating temperature, the coolant thermostat (13) opens at 92 °C


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edit2:

In order to flush out possible air bubbles after filling, a bleeder process must be carried out with the tester. This involves activating the electric coolant pumps in various combinations. Activation is first without the engine running, and then at specified engine speeds.



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1642843820125.png1642843831375.png1642843840105.png
 
Thinking about it..... I'm wondering if my converters stuck the sticker on when the van had the diesel heater fitted! I'll have another look under the van tomorrow.
As a matter of interest, I assume that these aux coolant heaters work without any interaction from the driver?
Mine has the same sticker, Webasto added during conversion.
 
check this out . . . - https://www.t6forum.com/threads/vw-vag-ssp-self-study-programs.11179/


SSP564 - T6 2.0L Derv Engine


+++

edit:

it mentions - 2/3-way valve (thermostatic 65 - 75 °C)

When the engine is cold, coolant circulates from the coolant pump (6) through the oil cooler (4), the cylinder head, the cylinder block and the heat exchanger for heater (3). The 2/3-way bleeder valve (16) is opened. It closes at a coolant temperature of 49 °C. When the engine has reached operating temperature, the coolant thermostat (13) opens at 92 °C


+++

edit2:

In order to flush out possible air bubbles after filling, a bleeder process must be carried out with the tester. This involves activating the electric coolant pumps in various combinations. Activation is first without the engine running, and then at specified engine speeds.



+++



View attachment 142787View attachment 142788View attachment 142789
That'll explain why the heaters don't work below 50 degs then!
 
Not sure where the additional rear heater is included in the above info.
 
That makes sense as the rear heater will only work if the front is on.
 
Glad I read this thread. Even though it's balmy summer here in Northern Ireland now this has bothered me for the last few months...
I am also glad I have heated seats because the heater in my 2019 204 DSG is so pathetic on shortish runs that my wife refuses to drive the (her) van during the winter. Winner for me! It will eventually heat up but not quickly like the car which is an old 2008 Audi A6 3.0TDI Quattro avant. I removed the bulkhead in my LWB factory Kombi and this may be another reason why even if I have heat on recirculate it takes an eternity to heat the van, but still find the interior length sans- bulkhead much more practical for long loads so can't really see myself replacing it.
So in short....the heater doesn't work very quickly unless you are hammering it/ on the motorway?
Air con works fantastically by the way and vents/ blower all work fine. Engine temps rise steadily and remain stable.
 
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