@Glenn2605 Yep, I only scratched the paint with 180 grit sandpaper where I was going to apply the adhesive or tape.
@ekynoxe @JasonW
How have you run the cabling inside the roof? Looking at these panels with rear entry myself, and there is not enough space behind the tent on my reimo to run the cabling outside of the canvas, so i've got to go inside. Concerned it's not going to look great cutting a 40mm hole out of the headlining.
Then i've got to either drill through the frame of the roof or the furniture board at the back of the bed.
How have you run the cabling inside the roof? Looking at these panels with rear entry myself, and there is not enough space behind the tent on my reimo to run the cabling outside of the canvas, so i've got to go inside. Concerned it's not going to look great cutting a 40mm hole out of the headlining.
Then i've got to either drill through the frame of the roof or the furniture board at the back of the bed.
I have an Austop, so I can't comment on how the head-lining is attached in a reimo, but I'm confident there should be enough depth between the roof and the lining.
On this photo, you can see on the left there's a thick layer (most likely insulation), onto which the lining riveted in my case. That gives more than enough space for the panel's back box and routing the cable where I wanted it to go.
Other wires are for an LED at the front of the roof, over the cab.
Then the I made sure the cable exists in the corner of the lining when I re-riveted it in place. That's just before I did that.
I also routed the cable on the left of the strip of wood, back of the roof aluminium profile, and down in the real pillar alongside the loom that's there.
That gives a better view, before the bed board was reattached
And once all done with the bed in place, you can barely see the cable at the far end
View from inside: hidden away!
In any case, all of this is over the bed board, so if you have one, it will not very visible unless you crawl to the back of the "upstairs"
Really helpful thanks, the reimo lining is manufactured in place which makes it trickier but I think if I just holesaw the grp shell and insulation then it should just sit in there nicely and then I can run the cable through the van roof in the middle of the van and hide the wiring inside.
matthew2456
New Member
Ekynoxe and diesel dinky, which panels are they please?
Guessing Diesel Dinky might be for me.
Quite like it though. Might have it.
Here's the panel I've got. Not the cheapest but seems good quality. @Dellmassive might be able to tell you how it compares, performance wise to some of the others available on the market.
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pic added.
Quite like it though. Might have it.
Here's the panel I've got. Not the cheapest but seems good quality. @Dellmassive might be able to tell you how it compares, performance wise to some of the others available on the market.
12V solar panels charging kits for caravans, motorhomes, boats, yachts, marine
12V solar panel solar charging kits for motorhome caravan boat campervan yacht marine off-grid
www.photonicuniverse.com
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pic added.
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I've got one these
edit:
pic added.
12V solar panels charging kits for caravans, motorhomes, boats, yachts, marine
12V solar panel solar charging kits for motorhome caravan boat campervan yacht marine off-grid
www.photonicuniverse.com
edit:
pic added.
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi guys, I’d be grateful for some advice because I am a total numpty when it comes to electrics..I’ve just ordered one of these 150w Flexi Solar Panel Kit - black rear exit
I have a 60w panel from the original conversion and feel that it makes sense use more of the roof real estate ( and my kids are obsessed with opening the fridge door).
The existing cable is lead through the top hinge gland and through the Reimo roof behind the canvas.
I have a sneaky suspicion that in order to remove this cable I’d need to get behind a bunch of panels and lining. My question is can I use the existing cable if I cut it and connected it to the new one with a junction box? Assuming they are the same size..
I have a 60w panel from the original conversion and feel that it makes sense use more of the roof real estate ( and my kids are obsessed with opening the fridge door).
The existing cable is lead through the top hinge gland and through the Reimo roof behind the canvas.
I have a sneaky suspicion that in order to remove this cable I’d need to get behind a bunch of panels and lining. My question is can I use the existing cable if I cut it and connected it to the new one with a junction box? Assuming they are the same size..
The rear exit box on that will limit you, on my Reimo there isn’t enough room to cut the 35mm hole for the junction box behind the canvas, I’ve got to go inside the roof tent.
Depending on the cable run maybe you could pickup on the existing cabling into the van, I’ve pulled the carpet up in the back of the roofbed area, the roof void is open at the back of the van and I would think you could probably take into the original wiring there. You’d need to unclip the gas struts from the bed and remove the rear bed board.
Depending on the cable run maybe you could pickup on the existing cabling into the van, I’ve pulled the carpet up in the back of the roofbed area, the roof void is open at the back of the van and I would think you could probably take into the original wiring there. You’d need to unclip the gas struts from the bed and remove the rear bed board.
your new panel has this sticking out the back . . .
this sort of thing.
.
this sort of thing.
.
- yes
The new panel comes without a controller, but does come with a remote diode junctionbox. so you could splice the new panel onto the existing cable.
Hi Nick, yes I had that issue with the first panel I bought. The cable was 50mm in from the edge, which was more than the drawing. I checked with the new supplier and they confirmed this one will we 15mm so looks like it will fit if we net all it far enough back.. it’s meant to arrive today so time will tell!
Thanks @Dellmassive that’s great to know. I have a controller installed already in the cupboard near the battery. Running a new cable from the back to here I think would be a nightmare. I’m half wondering if I can fit that junction box on the underside of the pop top behind the canvas. Big fan of your How it’s done series by the way!
sorry i should have stated before:
Thats provided the existing cable link to the controller if beefy enough to carry 10A under max power draw.
your existing panel will be around 3A max . . . . your new panel around 10A max. . .
is the cable run to the controller under 6ft?
I’ll do a double check but I’d say it is under 6ft, I’ll compare cable diameter and core size when the new one arrives (hopefully today) and post some pictures. Thanks for the advice!
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