If it's not the std 000000 then you'll need to get the one off the sticker on the device I'm afraid!Update. No it doesn’t. It says wrong PuK.
Sorry, forget to say thanks.The PUK is the code needed for the Bluetooth. If there is no PUK then it’s 000000.
thats looks ok. . .
i use 4mm PV cable for the extension cables to get the panels out in the sun. : https://amzn.to/3NWbFhx
i use SB50 Andersons for the 12v POWER SIDE, : https://amzn.to/44vziUu
i use MC4 solar connectors for the panel side, : https://amzn.to/3CVBrgq
i use awg8 silicone cable for the tails into the MPPT . . . : https://amzn.to/3pBxk6j
i use a fuse Anderson for the battery connection: https://amzn.to/44vziUu
this is how i set mine up . . .
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here is a recent battery build i done. . . 4173Wh (330Ah) Lithium Battery Box -- How I Done It --
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[Guide] Solar Cables? . . . - How I Did It -
[Guide] Solar Cables? . . . - How I Did It - its time for another guide . . . This time on solar cables. we use these cables for permanent install and for mobile installs. lets start with the Solar PV MC4-MC4 cable. Solar PV cable is not actually standard cable . . . its more specialised...www.t6forum.com
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Cool thanks mate, better get ordering...Matching the cable gauge is good practice.
And the battery cable needs to be fused at the battery end.
So if I want to future proof there wiring. If I was to end up updating my panel to a 200/300w should I go for a 6mm cable or is that not necessary?Cool thanks mate, better get ordering...
You never know we could have sun...
Somewhat depends on the panel, if the increase of power is in voltage the current won't rise.So if I want to future proof there wiring. If I was to end up updating my panel to a 200/300w should I go for a 6mm cable or is that not necessary?
Cheers @Dellmassive absolute superstar sharing your knowledge. Just lost a couple of hours reading and watching your reviews on panels. Tempted to get a 200w to replace my old 120WMatching the cable gauge is good practice.
And the battery cable needs to be fused at the battery end.
That's correct - if you check the instructions it says to connect the MPPT to the battery first so it can detect the voltage. You can also set all the settings via the app at that point. You can also wire in the PV cables without a panel connected, at the same time as the battery cables. Then connect to the panel - ideally cover the panel when you do connect it so there's no power going through it.Right the final bits turned up today, I need to get the seat off and have a proper measure up. But if I have to route the cables to the battery from under the passenger seat that should be OK.
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So this is how I think it should be connected.
It's the order I would like to confirm...
I was going to connect the battery tails first then connect to the fused tail and connect that to the battery.
Then connect the PV tails, once that is all done I'm OK to connect the PV extension and to the panel. Then I'm OK to just connect the panel??
Thanks to everyone's help in getting me this far.
Cheers
Brilliant, thanks @TallPaul_S for confirming that. Nice little job for tomorrow.That's correct - if you check the instructions it says to connect the MPPT to the battery first so it can detect the voltage. You can also set all the settings via the app at that point. You can also wire in the PV cables without a panel connected, at the same time as the battery cables. Then connect to the panel - ideally cover the panel when you do connect it so there's no power going through it.
Just been reading all the various settings on the Victron website... Mind blowing!That's correct - if you check the instructions it says to connect the MPPT to the battery first so it can detect the voltage. You can also set all the settings via the app at that point. You can also wire in the PV cables without a panel connected, at the same time as the battery cables. Then connect to the panel - ideally cover the panel when you do connect it so there's no power going through it.