Sound-deadening and Thermal Insulation of Cab

Would also like to know the answer to this.
I am about to remove the flooring in order to complete an ICE installation and am interested to know if it's worth going to the trouble of applying silent coat to the floor area.
Appreciable or marginal/no benefit??
 
THQ have a video on Youtube showing different levels of insulation applied to their vans and use a cheap and cheerful dB meter to prove the effectiveness of noise reduction.
 
Rg_ said:
Hi mate last place for me to sound deaden is behind here. How do you remove the scuttle to get behind to the metal?
Thanks
Click to expand...
1. 2x front wipers off, there’s a good chance you’ll need a small 2 leg puller as they are on tapers. Note the resting position of the blade tips and reference mark with some masking tape on the windscreen before removal. Both wipers should be the same but it doesn’t hurt to replace them in the same position.
2. Small battery cover / trim to remove.
3. Pull off the long rubber seal that runs side to side.
4. Pull the long plastic cover down and away from the windscreen, you might need some force.
BE CAREFUL not to damage the 2x electrical connectors to the heated windscreen if you have one.
5. Make sure no key in switch and disconnect the front wiper mechanism electrics before removing the mounting bolts and pull out the wiper mechanism.
6. Dismount the alarm sounder, stainless steel box in the middle of the scuttle.
7. Carefully dismount the wiring harness from the bulkhead clips.
Assembly in reverse order.
 
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DXX said:
1. 2x front wipers off, there’s a good chance you’ll need a small 2 leg puller as they are on tapers. Note the resting position of the blade tips and reference mark with some masking tape on the windscreen before removal. Both wipers should be the same but it doesn’t hurt to replace them in the same position.
2. Small battery cover / trim to remove.
3. Pull off the long rubber seal that runs side to side.
4. Pull the long plastic cover down and away from the windscreen, you might need some force.
BE CAREFUL not to damage the 2x electrical connectors to the heated windscreen if you have one.
5. Make sure no key in switch and disconnect the front wiper mechanism electrics before removing the mounting bolts and pull out the wiper mechanism.
6. Dismount the alarm sounder, stainless steel box in the middle of the scuttle.
7. Carefully dismount the wiring harness from the bulkhead clips.
Assembly in reverse order.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that. This will be my last bit of soundproofing. Unless I do the front doors? Do people do behind the door cards usually?
 
Rg_ said:
Thanks for that. This will be my last bit of soundproofing. Unless I do the front doors? Do people do behind the door cards usually?
Click to expand...
IMO both doors make as much difference as the scuttle, there’s plenty of content on that in the forum.
Also search on wheel arch sound deadening, I’ve got good results on external sound deadening inc’ foam lining the arch liners.
 
DXX said:
IMO both doors make as much difference as the scuttle, there’s plenty of content on that in the forum.
Also search on wheel arch sound deadening, I’ve got good results on external sound deadening inc’ foam lining the arch liners.
Click to expand...

Ok that's good to know, I'll have a search for the doors side of things then.

I just finished yesterday sound deadening all the wheel arches externally, hoping it will make a decent difference as it's the wheels. Haven't had a test drive yet so will see today when I go to the supermarket to see what its like. I hadn't seen anything about foam lining the arches? Maybe that's something I can add too then.

So far I have done the floor(front cab and back), the arches externally, all the inside walls with extra layers of insulation on top. Left the roof as I am planning a pop top.
Last will be the scuttle and I'll look to do the doors.
 
Rg_ said:
Ok that's good to know, I'll have a search for the doors side of things then.

I just finished yesterday sound deadening all the wheel arches externally, hoping it will make a decent difference as it's the wheels. Haven't had a test drive yet so will see today when I go to the supermarket to see what its like. I hadn't seen anything about foam lining the arches? Maybe that's something I can add too then.

So far I have done the floor(front cab and back), the arches externally, all the inside walls with extra layers of insulation on top. Left the roof as I am planning a pop top.
Last will be the scuttle and I'll look to do the doors.
Click to expand...
The arch liner foam makes a much bigger difference than 2mm dynamat etc on the steel, I did both.
It’s a very easy job and cheap, do a search.
 
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DXX said:
The arch liner foam makes a much bigger difference than 2mm dynamat etc on the steel, I did both.
It’s a very easy job and cheap, do a search.
Click to expand...
what foam did you use please? does that mean on the outside of the arches you applied dynamat then the foam on top, then replace the arch liners?
thanks
 
Have a search there are a few threads, read the whole of this one.
Dynamat the steel.
Foam only on the backs of the liners.
DXX said:
It’s closed cell foam so I guess you can call it waterproof, the adhesive is so strong that the foam rips before the adhesive lets go.
Yaheetech Sound Proofing Deadening Vehicle Insulation Closed Cell Foam Sheet with Adhesive Backing 50cm X 30cm,12 Sheets Yaheetech Sound Proofing Deadening Vehicle Insulation Closed Cell Foam Sheet with Adhesive Backing 50cm X 30cm,12 Sheets: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

The only inner sound deadening on the cab is both doors and roof.
The rear is fully converted as a camper and as such fully sound deadened and insulated.
Click to expand...
 
I've been looking at sound deadening/insulating................is it worth paying the extra money for Dodo Pro 2mm over the 1.8mm ??
 
Scuttle is the area under the bonnet where the wipers sit, and the dust seals go on the driver and passenger doors - They are standard on passenger carriers - makes a big difference to road noise.
 
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