I’ve messaged you bud so 100% ready to get these konis on my t6
Stance+ Coilover Review
- Thread starter RedDragonAus
- Start date
Alrick1800
New Member
Hi
Just fitted stance ultras and fitted at half way down on the front to see how it went.
Rides great but I wanted to go lower and there is plenty left.
Trouble is I can’t seem to wind them down. Am I doing something wrong?
I have listened off the bottom collar and thought it would just be a case of twisting the body so the inner tube winds down in to the outer, but no..
Just fitted stance ultras and fitted at half way down on the front to see how it went.
Rides great but I wanted to go lower and there is plenty left.
Trouble is I can’t seem to wind them down. Am I doing something wrong?
I have listened off the bottom collar and thought it would just be a case of twisting the body so the inner tube winds down in to the outer, but no..
Hi, to lower the fronts further, you need to jack up the van so that the wheel is off the ground. This will take the weight of the shock to enable you to wind down the adjuster rings.
Now use the coil over spanners that were supplied with the kit to wind down the adjuster rings on the thread of the shock absorber. (There are two rings on top of each other and this is what the spring sits on and sets the ride height)
Once the rings are at there desired height nip them up against each other, but not to tight.
Do this to both sides and then drive the van round the block to allow the springs to settle into their normal position and then you will see the newly adjusted ride height.
Hopefully this makes sense but if not, please let me know and I will try to explain further.
Thanks
Once you have
Alrick1800
New Member
Hi Nick, thanks, this is what I have done in the past but these are the ultras and have the adjustable length tubes where the inner tube is threaded in to the outer tube. I just Stan the outer tube and drop link cleats when off the van but can’t do that when installed
I do not fully understand your issue, so maybe take some photos so we can help further.
I have the ultras too and have not had any issues with raising or lowering. They are the same as all other coilovers as far as I am aware.
Alrick1800
New Member
Rubbish pic but as you can hopefully see the threaded part goes in to the body of the shock, must have 60mm left just can’t twist the inner shaft to adjust
Alrick1800
New Member
Sorry ‘‘this is a t5 seems the are different as t6 has conventional adjustment. These have a max 150mm drop and are adjustable but the length of the shocks so spring rates and shock rates stay similar rather than compressed
In the picture the upper purple ring needs to be twisted round using the tool provided.
nope, no markings, each van is different, just adjust and see where you sit, and then re-adjust from there
These look like the Proline version, you need to turn the strut and wind it up or down into the base unit. You can do this but spanner on the 2 x lock rings. Its tight but will go.
Stance+ Proline Coilovers | Official
From Stance website -
Stance+ Proline coil overs offer extreme lowering with uncompromised levels of comfort. Proline coilovers are ride height adjustable but with a difference! Unlike most conventional coil over kits the front struts and rear dampers are adjustable in length. The front coilover units are base adjustable; this means the whole strut can be lengthened or shortened depending on your desired ride height. This is ideal for enthusiasts that want to run their car extremely low and still retain a good level of comfort. By shortening the actual coilover unit you still maintain full damper travel!
Good luck
Ian
Just to confirm, is the 22mm hex nylock nut that comes with the kit for the top of the mount or for on top of the inner wing ?
I expected an Allen key in the top to stop it spinning whilst tightening the nut, instead it’s machined for a 10mm spanner however when the nylock nut bites its still covering where the spanner would fit ?
I expected an Allen key in the top to stop it spinning whilst tightening the nut, instead it’s machined for a 10mm spanner however when the nylock nut bites its still covering where the spanner would fit ?
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You shouldn't be using the nyloc nut. They're for protection during transportation only. You should re-use the genuine VW nuts that would've come off the standard suspension. The plain nut (the taller one) goes on now and the flanged nut goes on once the shock is in the van and you've got the little top plate on.
The genuine nuts will just spin down until you need to get them tight, you'll easily be able to get your spanner on the top of the shock shaft then.
neilsparky
Member
I’ve been thinking of getting these for my t6 for a while, had a leaking front shock so pulled the trigger and brought some. Fitted at the weekend, not too bad to do, 2 days in and so far so good, rides well ( work van ) no bangs and crashes and not as bouncy as the standard shocks. Think I might need bigger wheels now!
Hi
Just installing the rears, daft questions but which way round does the spring and adjuster go ? The opening post on here as it with the new rubber washer in between the body and the adjuster (see picture) but the adjuster doesn’t slide over the male peg hanging down from the body/mount area ?
Also if installed this way the writing is upside down on the spring ?
Just installing the rears, daft questions but which way round does the spring and adjuster go ? The opening post on here as it with the new rubber washer in between the body and the adjuster (see picture) but the adjuster doesn’t slide over the male peg hanging down from the body/mount area ?
Also if installed this way the writing is upside down on the spring ?
neilsparky
Member
I had to trim the bump stop to get the adjuster on, new rubber goes on first, then adjuster then spring, I brought new bottom rubbers as they where only a few quid, I ended up with the rears as high as they could go then adjusted the fronts down to level up, had a full week with them now, around 300 miles and all still good
Thanks. The rears are now on and looking good, I’m using the top rubber mounts at the bottom, not sure if I will change them as there doesn’t seem to be much difference in the thickness between them and the original bottom ones (where the spring seats). The rear is lower than the front atm (rear adjuster fully up) and I have the front lock ring on the bottom thread ? Did you have to remove the front lock ring to level up ?
