T6 Aftermarket Digital Instrument Cluster

Like most things, people often dont talk about things when they are happy, but are vocal if something is not quite right. Personally, whilst I've seen a few bugs, the positives far outweigh the negatives. Once its set up and your over the honeymoon period of button pressing, it really just sits there looking cool.
That's about it.. I'm ripping all this back to quite simply make the calorie counter more accurate (and I mean no offence to the mpg folk) the majority I speak to really don't care about all that. I just knew there was a thread to pull at so finally found it on this issue, speed reset I've nailed too, I'm just pulling the presentation together for another vid. Seeing as it didn't seem like the manufacturer was going to, they suggested the OK DOWN method which felt a bit Freudian, but hey. Try and remember these things are all being ironed out in a simple plug in auto-run firmware that takes a couple of minutes.

I Wouldn't hesitate to get on board right now, most of this issue chatter wouldn't exist without our community, due diligence, transparency and adoption. I see some right rubbish on other sites, saying anything for a sale, Personally, I would rather demonstrate a level of coherency and aptitude to win customers, perhaps I've slowed adoption in that way? But, we would be like other forums then just making do with what we are given. It's only with my customers numbers I get to lock the team in for some proper feedback and response. Just get comfortable with the odd firmware update when it's due, I will share a full video guide on it, it's done somewhere, I've just buried it under the others promoting things I want to actually sell to make a living out of these magnificent transformational installations. Stepping down from the soapbox.

Ps. Media connect is on the site along with options; DIGIDASH - Ai Head Unit Sync Box, Link Harness & Remote Controller.
excuse typos my wife thought I was watching a movie with her, and kept asking me what they just said LOL.
 
You have to do
- ( Minus ) … Volume Button
OK
Down

6 times, to get rid of the BONG at 20 mph ( 30Km/h )

By doing Ok down only, you’ll set the additional BING at any speed you want

Just had to do it again yesterday, and it worked like a charm for me
What dash do you have, because the volume down has no control or effect whatsoever of the Highline T6. Neither does the down enter in truth. You might fluke landing on the MFD menu but the MFD menu could have between 3 and 11 unit modules to turn on and off. I will demonstrate in my video soon. My button press method removes it from the MFD menu. You might not see it again at all unless you do some serious firmware reset and settings and hdmi screen stretch locations..
 
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i'd love one of these, but all i ever here is things not working and having to keep updating, maybe one day it will all be sorted 🤔
I’ve not touched mine since installation day. I’m saving up a few improvements such as firmware update and consumption correction and I’ll hit them at once. Until then I’ll just carry on enjoying it - it’s a fantastic upgrade.
 
What dash do you have, because the volume down has no control or effect whatsoever of the Highline T6. Neither does the down enter in truth. You might fluke landing on the MFD menu but the MFD menu could have between 3 and 11 unit modules to turn on and off. I will demonstrate in my video soon. My button press method removes it from the MFD menu. You might not see it again at all unless you do some serious firmware reset and settings and hdmi screen stretch locations..
REV 1 Board / Cali Beach 2019
Like I said, it worked for me several times

Using the OK Down combination, I could / can set ON / OFF various speed BONGs on different speed, but it’s NOT disabling/ enabling the 20mph/30km/h speed PLINGIMG_1326.jpeg
 
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"Its an update over the air (OTA) Go to settings, down to wifi, and follow the instructions on screen to hotspot your phone. If iPhone, you have to change the name of the iPhone to 1234; if Android, it's easier to rename 1234 (so it announces the SSID as so). Then Password is set to 12345678. Then scroll to Conn. It will connect, and you will know because it will have been assigned an IP address. XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX - Next, once connected, click below that to update.

It will run through a sequence of restarts and end up showing version numbers. Press OK. Then exit and lock the vehicle. come back after 15 mins, redo your settings, bingo bango!"


It's stuff like this that puts me off, it may as well be written in german!!!
 
Ironically, i'd be quite happy as I can read an speak reasonable german, but I'm completely illeterate in in hi tec. Once I've seen a few 6.1s working happily with it ill get Antony to do the deed for me.
 
"Its an update over the air (OTA) Go to settings, down to wifi, and follow the instructions on screen to hotspot your phone. If iPhone, you have to change the name of the iPhone to 1234; if Android, it's easier to rename 1234 (so it announces the SSID as so). Then Password is set to 12345678. Then scroll to Conn. It will connect, and you will know because it will have been assigned an IP address. XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX - Next, once connected, click below that to update.

It will run through a sequence of restarts and end up showing version numbers. Press OK. Then exit and lock the vehicle. come back after 15 mins, redo your settings, bingo bango!"


It's stuff like this that puts me off, it may as well be written in german!!!
I have no issue doing evenings helping folk out with firmware via video calls on WhatsApp.. Up down left right ok! Done.. if you groan about WhatsApp next then Digidash might not be for you, it might not fulfill you the same as it does some. Or just come see me and I will just do everything for you.
 
I have no issue doing evenings helping folk out with firmware via video calls on WhatsApp.. Up down left right ok! Done.. if you groan about WhatsApp next then Digidash might not be for you, it might not fulfill you the same as it does some. Or just come see me and I will just do everything for you.
thats kind of you to help if needed. I'm not groaning, i just don't wan't to spend the best part of £500 if i have to do updates and keep changing setttings, sorry but i can only go on what i read on here,
 
"Its an update over the air (OTA) Go to settings, down to wifi, and follow the instructions on screen to hotspot your phone. If iPhone, you have to change the name of the iPhone to 1234; if Android, it's easier to rename 1234 (so it announces the SSID as so). Then Password is set to 12345678. Then scroll to Conn. It will connect, and you will know because it will have been assigned an IP address. XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX - Next, once connected, click below that to update.

It will run through a sequence of restarts and end up showing version numbers. Press OK. Then exit and lock the vehicle. come back after 15 mins, redo your settings, bingo bango!"


It's stuff like this that puts me off, it may as well be written in german!!!
It’s just where our personal skills and confidence lie. Personally, this doesn’t phase me in the slightest. I’d shy away from dismantling the front suspension though, for example.
 
Taking out the old cluster stripping it down and rebuilding the new one doesn't phase me at all, it's just im not 100% very techno that's all i'm worried about, i might find myself getting one in a month or two. as i'm sure i can sort it with a little help.. ;) :)
 
Maybe the following is interesting for one or the other.
I have a T6 transporter without automatic light. I also have the digital display and the Discover Media as a head unit. I had noticed lately that the head unit was much too bright for me at night, and it could no longer be dimmed with the rotary wheel. Then I remembered that I once read something about a sensor on the board of the display unit and that it would control the radio via bus in addition to the instruments. So I looked at the removed instrument cluster again, and yes, there is a hole and something like a lightguide!

1742158750570.png1742158800255.png

Ok, removed the board and checked it, and indeed, a sensor on the board right behind the guide.
1742158871834.png

Sensor soldered out, laid out with the help of a pair of cables, and everything works perfectly again.

1742158925351.png1742158952314.png
1742158976594.png1742158996051.png

The radio can be dimmed again, nothing dazzles in the night. How it behaves during the day in the sun, I will test tomorrow. Perhaps our chinese friends have to think about a solution for that....
 
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I will leave this here for anyone wanting a consumption and remaining miles correction DIY.
Ooh I need to watch this to fix mine. Just subscribed. So I have noticed an issue with mine today. Last week I fitted 20" alloys and after doing the GPS check against speedo, I needed to add plus 6mph to the speed adjustment.

This has sorted that but it now does some funny things with the cruise control. Like setting to the cruise to 37 but the speedo and van then stay steady at 40. Its like the speed adjacent is confusing the whole thing.
 
I've since upgraded to the small remote control for the Digidash. This allows me to bypass the need to use the steering wheel buttons. Since then, I've had no more problems with unwanted speed alerts or other random functions.

Thanks @antony.charnley, I visit your website regularly and wouldn't have known there was a remote control option without you.
Keep up the good work!
Small remote? Tell me more
 
 
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