[T6] Looking for the D+ signal wire in a T6

[Dellmassive]

Thanks @Dellmassive this is what I referred to above but it does need 'switching on' by coding of the BCM. I'd forgotten that there was a snippet of the wiring diagram on the forum.

Not sure about the switching on bit..... haven't tested to see it's on by default?

Possibly "second battery installed" tickbox thing ?

@mmi any ideas regarding BCM coding?

 

[Deaky]

Not sure about the switching on bit..... haven't tested to see it's on by default?

Possibly "second battery installed" tickbox thing ?

@mmi any ideas regarding BCM coding?

Byte 17 Bit 4 Battery Seperating Relay active

 

[Dellmassive]

Byte 17 Bit 4 Battery Seperating Relay active

There you go.... nice one @Deaky

 

[rod_vw]

Yep, just been to mine and done a screen print from VCDS...



It's switched it off as I'm not using it at present.

 

[Phil_G]

... I'm running new cabling to replace the Factory Relay Aux charger

Sounds to me like he already has the BCM feed and code, or have I misunderstood the OP?

 

[t0mb0]

Sounds to me like he already has the BCM feed and code, or have I misunderstood the OP?

Good spot! If so, that would certainly make things simple!

 

[Bryn23]

Hi Bryn23, I see that you have the Votronic triple, I know this thread is rather old but would love to know how you got on with it and whether using the switched fuse sorted your D+ problem out? Did you use the AES solar output for a fridge?
Looking forward to installing mine this weekend, surprised this unit doesn't feature much in this forum, though there is a lot of brand loyalty here someone on this forum must work for sikaflex

Hi Hodgo,

I ended up just using a piggy back fuse into the fuse panel, to allow the unit to see that the ignition is active when the van is on.

I didn't use the AES solar output, i didn't see the need with my electrical layout.

These are a good unit, i used the 30/20/250 for our first trip around Australia and had no faults, so much so that i brought a 60/40/430 for our next trip around Aus. (we don't tend to plug in to mains, so we needed a faster charging for in-between camp sites)

But having said that, this new unit is faulty and will being going back, and i've had to put the older model back in for the time being, until it is fixed.

They do make some good products, but there customer care is a lot to be desired, its a very slow process, even with my distributor following them up, I had a fault with the Jupiter Panel, which was fixed after about 3-4 months...

If they were only as reliable as Sikaflex 291 or 252, lol

 

[Bryn23]

When i first installed this unit, i ended up taking the easy way out and using the VW fuse board, its true that i could have used the Aux battery relay, but to be honest i didn't even think of it at the time.

These is a lot more info on the forum now than 3 years ago

 

[travelvolts]

I'm never quite sure on the terminology, so I don't know if it's technically called a D+, but the T6 with a factory fit leisure battery uses a 'D+' signal wire for the relay which is only live when the engine is actually running (as opposed to the standard ignition live). Whatever it's called, this is clearly the optimal signal wire for a DC-DC charger because it's live if, and only if, the alternator is capable of supplying current. However, I've no idea where to find this in a standard T6 without the factory fit leisure battery option...

It is called, "engine run signal". There is no D+ on an intelligent alternator. With a DC-DC charger a normal ignition signal is fine. They all have a cut off voltage to protect the vehicle battery from excessive discharge.

 

[wheelie]

I ended up just using a piggy back fuse into the fuse panel, to allow the unit to see that the ignition is active when the van is on.

May I ask what electrical component fuse you chose for this? I'm currently installing one and wondering what's the best fuse in the fusebox to choose.

 

[hodgo10]

Wow thanks guys for the info download. I think I will take travelvolts and Btyn23 advice and just run a ignition feed from the fuse box. Wheelie its a 5 amp fuse as per the wiring diagram in your instruction manual.

 

[Bryn23]

I just ended up using a piggy back fuse, if I recall it was a mini blade for the centre fuse

 

[wheelie]

Thanks for the info. Tho I’ve gone through all the fuses including the mini’s in the centre console with a DMM but can’t find anything switching on which is engine run dependant, everything seems to be permanently on or key in ignition on. Any ideas?

Update: sorry, should have read this thread through, travelvolts says ok to take ignition live

 

[Thomas Hopkins]

Moving accross to installing the Sargent pms in our campers, can anyone provide any info on where I can pick up the d+ feed from the alternator for emc and the integrated split charge relay ?

cheers

Tom

 

[mmi]

https://www.t6forum.com/threads/victron-orion-signal-cable.23438/post-378381

 

[Dellmassive]

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[Dellmassive]

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[Thomas Hopkins]

Hi guys,

thanks for these however I’m after a d+ feed from alternator not an ignition feed as it is to trigger the Sargent unit when engine running for ecm unfortunately the Orion doesn’t solve this.

Cheers

Tom

 

[Dellmassive]

The alternator has no D+ signal.... its LIN Bus controlled.

The D+ signal mentioned above is the BCM engine run signal that is used in the OEM setup to trigger the OEM SCR.

Thats the switched +12v you need.

 

[Dellmassive]

this:


.

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The T6 "Engine Run" feed from the BCM is shown here:

T6 - Second battery wiring diagram
Second battery for transporter ( not California)

www.t6forum.com

+12v switched on when RPM engine run is detected.

used by the OEM setup to switch a 80A relay that connects the second battery (old skool SCR)

conection : J519 BCM - T73a/3

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