Tailgate opens from the inside but not the outside?
- Thread starter CaptainZag
- Start date
7E0827526 is number 7 in the picture, there are two options for this part £
7E0927235 is number 9 in the picture, there are also two options for this part, description reads "pushbutton for decklid release grip moulding - with micro-switch"
Part 9 is around £30-32 + vat depending on option
Part number 10 is the outside piece that would need painting
7E0927235 is number 9 in the picture, there are also two options for this part, description reads "pushbutton for decklid release grip moulding - with micro-switch"
Part 9 is around £30-32 + vat depending on option
Part number 10 is the outside piece that would need painting
Ok so the part number fitted to your van is as above
7E0927235 (no letter on the end) and its listed at £30.97 + vat
It is asking/suggesting to order part 10 as well so think you will want to check if those parts separate or may need both parts and have to get them painted
7E0927235 (no letter on the end) and its listed at £30.97 + vat
It is asking/suggesting to order part 10 as well so think you will want to check if those parts separate or may need both parts and have to get them painted
GTV INVESTMENT TRANSPORTER T6 Rear Tailgate Boot Lid Handle 7E0927235 NEW GENUINE : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive
GTV INVESTMENT TRANSPORTER T6 Rear Tailgate Boot Lid Handle 7E0927235 NEW GENUINE : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive
www.amazon.co.uk
The plot thickens. Just removed the tailgate boot lid handle and the part number appears to be 7E0827566C:
The complete unit removed showing the back plate (10) and main unit (9) can be seperated:
The backplate part number is 7E0829139 (but is held on by double-sided tape, some clips, and a 2 Torx screws).
So looks like I need 7E0827566C?! Having said that - I just found a couple of items on fleabay showing both 7E0827566C and 7E0927235 on the same item. I have a feeling that (as the 7E0827566C has 4 Torx screws - it could be the part number for the cover!):
Hopefully, the mystery is solved about the part number and the above will be a useful resource if other T6Forum users come across this problem. Thanks @Pauly for all your help and advice. I'll report back when it is all fixed...
The complete unit removed showing the back plate (10) and main unit (9) can be seperated:
The backplate part number is 7E0829139 (but is held on by double-sided tape, some clips, and a 2 Torx screws).
So looks like I need 7E0827566C?! Having said that - I just found a couple of items on fleabay showing both 7E0827566C and 7E0927235 on the same item. I have a feeling that (as the 7E0827566C has 4 Torx screws - it could be the part number for the cover!):
Hopefully, the mystery is solved about the part number and the above will be a useful resource if other T6Forum users come across this problem. Thanks @Pauly for all your help and advice. I'll report back when it is all fixed...
Just an update - in case anyone is looking at this thread in the future. The part 7E0927235 arrived (took over 3 weeks) and was fitted without issue and all works as expected now. The hardest part was clipping the backplate back on - with the double-sided tape etc. What a relief. I'll do a quick write up of the 3-week+ delivery issue elsewhere! Thanks again to @Pauly.
Oh, I assumed that the remote sent a signal to some central receiver, which told the various locks to open or close. Does this mean that the external tailgate switch has it's own receiver?
Hi @Pauly, I am thinking of a temporary fix for my problem (it's incredibly inconvenient having to crawl through the dog caging to open the tailgate
). I will join a pair of wires to the pins or wires on either the internal or external switches, run the wires through a small hole in the internal panel, take it under my dog caging to a switch accessible from the sliding door (ideally a push button switch but otherwise any switch which you have to turn briefly on then off). I will check that the rear wiper motor is getting power at the same time.I'm a complete novice at working on vehicles, my car maintenance course was so long ago that cars had hardly any electrics in those days, other than the coil/sparkplugs, starter motor and lights). But I see there is plenty of advice about removing the trim on the forum, I guess I need to start by buying trim tools.
Thanks in advance.
I have removed the tailgate trim panel on my T6 Kombi and the plugs which terminate the white wires and go into the internal (F248) and external (E234) switches. Shorting out the two pins on the external switch plug does indeed open the tailgate. The same with shorting pins 1 and 4 of the internal switch plug (pin 2 feeds the Switch Illumination Bulb). So it seems that the external switch is faulty. @CaptainZag I assume this exactly the same as your problem?
[However, new problem: after I removed the internal switch from the trim and inserted the plug, the bulb no longer lit, and shorting pins 1 and 4 did nothing. One or more of the wires going into the plus were loose, wriggling them around relit the bulb and shorting now opens the tailgate. Now I have to find out how to get the wires properly connected within the plug. I'm not really interested in the internal switch as it's rather inaccessible due to dog caging - except it's very useful if the external switch fails again!]
Circuit diagram is "Circuit_Diagrams_Rear_Lid_door_switches_T6F.pdf" available from Downloads.
[However, new problem: after I removed the internal switch from the trim and inserted the plug, the bulb no longer lit, and shorting pins 1 and 4 did nothing. One or more of the wires going into the plus were loose, wriggling them around relit the bulb and shorting now opens the tailgate. Now I have to find out how to get the wires properly connected within the plug. I'm not really interested in the internal switch as it's rather inaccessible due to dog caging - except it's very useful if the external switch fails again!]
Circuit diagram is "Circuit_Diagrams_Rear_Lid_door_switches_T6F.pdf" available from Downloads.
Oh! @Pauly Briefly pressing the internal switch on the tailgate is not enough - the tailgate unlatches, but only moves a short distance, unless it is pushed open quickly it stops there and can't be opened further.Hi @Pauly, I am thinking of a temporary fix for my problem (it's incredibly inconvenient having to crawl through the dog caging to open the tailgate
(1) Is this normal behaviour? [I guess anyone with a T6 Kombi with a tailgate with an internal switch to open the tailgate could answer this.]
(2) Would it be OK to close my temporary switch and leave it closed while I walk round and pull the tailgate open, then go back round to the sliding door and open the switch? Might something burn out?
Thanks for your suggestions.
I am not very confident of my ability to fix the external handle, and anyway I think it will take some time to get the correct part(s) and get the job done. My temporary fix should anly take 15 minutes.
Unfortunately I think that the dog caging in the van would block using a piece of wood like that, but I'll see if it's possible.
But are you able to answer my questions (1) and (2)?
I ask (1) because if it's not normal behaviour then I guess there is something else wrong. (When the remote tailgate release is working, you don't have to open the tailgate within a few seconds of pressing the button on the remote, but I find that when I use the internal switch I have to push the tailgate open within a few seconds.)
@CaptainZag could you comment on this, you have the experience of fixing the external handle.
Thanks.
That's normal - or mine is the same, I need to press and keep the switch pressed as long as the tailgate has passed both latches.
Yes, no problem with that - for a few minutes at least.
Thanks very much @mmi, I will go ahead with my temporary fix. Though I am temporarily stuck at the bottom of my track, because of snow and ice. We don't have proper winter tyres here in North Scotland (I used to work for a company based in Helsinki, I was very impressed the way everyone drove around at high speed on the snow in winter, while we were all getting stuck in England at the slightest bit of snow.)
Oh, it doesn't work quite as I thought. I attached wires to the plug, with a switch to short the wires together. Closing the switch opens the tailgate, but even if I keep the switch closed the latch times out and closes before I have time to walk from the sliding door to the back of the van! So now I have a longer pair of wires, and I pull them out and walk round to the back of the van with the switch. Remote control, just not wireless remote control
.Anyway, it works fine until I get round to doing the job properly. Priority now is to diagnose my rear wiper problem (to be continued in another thread).
I have similar problems.
The rear tailgate latch was opening itself and eventually stopped working. I changed the solenoid still not working. Doesn't seem like any power going to door handle at all now.
I can't seem to find a fuse for it also.
I too have dog cages in the back and also having to climb through a cage to get to mechanical lever
The rear tailgate latch was opening itself and eventually stopped working. I changed the solenoid still not working. Doesn't seem like any power going to door handle at all now.
I can't seem to find a fuse for it also.
I too have dog cages in the back and also having to climb through a cage to get to mechanical lever
Hi Craigkenn, that sounds a bit different to mine, my internal switch was still working, only the external switch and remote didn't work. So I'm still using my "temporary" fix using a length of wire which comes from the internal switch, under the caging to the sliding door (but has to be pulled out and taken round to the back or the latch times out before you open the tailgate). I've got used to this (certainly better than crawling through the caging, and risking my huskies leaping over me and getting out!) - but my wife is moaning and wants to know when it will be fixed properly.
Well, to take it to the next level - would a foamy pad (squeezed by the closed tailgate) push the tailgate past the second latch at one go?
In the document "T6 Fuse Layout SC,SD,SF.pdf" there are various fuses mentioned for the rear lid control unit, e.g. see below, that is for No. 8021 21, there is different information for No. 8021 23, etc, and I don't know which applies to which vehicle, or even if it's the control unit that is not working in your case.
44 - Fuse 44 on fuse holder C -SC44- 15A - Rear lid control unit -J605- 30
20A - Alarm horn -H12- 30
- Onboard supply control unit -J519- (T73a/16)
- Rear lid control unit -J605-
- Leff sliding door control unit -J558-
- Right sliding door control unit -J731-
