Torque setting for disc to hub

[cy294]

Hello all,

I'm in prices of changing the discs and pads and have gone to tighten the bolt to secure the disc to the hub. In a thread on the forum it says 20nm. However my torque wrench only goes as low as 28nm. Will the extra .8nm be ok if I tighten it to 28nm?

 

[DXX]

Hello all,

I'm in prices of changing the discs and pads and have gone to tighten the bolt to secure the disc to the hub. In a thread on the forum it says 20nm. However my torque wrench only goes as low as 28nm. Will the extra .8nm be ok if I tighten it to 28nm?

No don’t tighten it to 28Nm. If you want to save money doing the maintenance yourself you should really get the tools, the countersunk screw can be a pain to remove and some people even omit them.
The screw in question only holds the disc in position when the wheel is removed, it prevents dirt falling between the hub and disc mounting face which would cause the disc to run out of true and the pads to rub intermittently / poor braking.
The wheel bolts secure the disc to the hub.
You really have two options; buy the correct torque wrench OR carefully tighten by hand assuming you can estimate what the correct torque is.

 

[Loz]

If you do it by hand, just nip it up, as @DXX says it's the wheels that hold it on tight and it won't fall out.

 

[The Bear78]

In a pinch you can use a spring balance or even kitchen scales if you work out the lever ratio. But personally I would just nip it up as above.

 

[rover220]

By hand is quite adequate.

 

[Dellmassive]

i was told may moons ago by an oldskool mechanic that :

"the single screw is only there for production reasons at the factory when building the car/van (to stop the disc from falling off) and also comes in handy when changing the wheel"

 

[cy294]

Thanks for all the replies. Appreciate it. Managed to sort it out.

One thing I can't find is the torques setting for the two 21mm caliper bolts as per my finger pointing in picture. I've looked on YouTube for a T5 and it says 75nm.

Any ideas? Thanks again.

 

[Dellmassive]

here:

T6 & T6.1 - Brake Pad Replacement

Workshop manual section for the replacement of Front Brake Pads

www.t6forum.com

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[cy294]

Thanks @ Dellmassive. If I'm seeing the diagram right. The bolts are numbered 20 and says to torque to 180nm?

 

[Dellmassive]

https://www.t6forum.com/threads/list-of-torque-settings.12649/post-178796

https://www.t6forum.com/threads/list-of-torque-settings.12649/post-201828

https://www.t6forum.com/threads/list-of-torque-settings.12649/post-201831

https://www.t6forum.com/threads/list-of-torque-settings.12649/post-201836

 

[Dellmassive]

Thanks @ Dellmassive. If I'm seeing the diagram right. The bolts are numbered 20 and says to torque to 180nm?

19 on one diagram, 20 on the other.

for the small and large size.

 

[cy294]

19 on one diagram, 20 on the other.

for the small and large size.

both state:

View attachment 102850

Ok, so am I right in saying it is 180nm. What is the 45 for?

 

[Dellmassive]

Ok, so am I right in saying it is 180nm. What is the 45 for?

that means 180Nm on the torque wrench for the click.

Then Plus an additional 45degrees more. (1/8 turn)

 

[cy294]

that means 180Nm on the torque wrench for the click.

Then Plus an additional 45degrees more. (1/8 turn)

@Dellmassive, thank you very much. Really appreciate your help. I was just concerned that it was a lot to torque upto. Thank you .

 

[Loz]

There is also not a lot of room to push/pull the torque on those bolts either.

 

[Dellmassive]

They NEED to be super tight . . . those two bolts hold the brakes on. plus deal with the constant heat soak cycles.

OEM manual says the bolts have to be replaced if removed.

large torque wrench and an extension tube should do it.

 

[cy294]

They NEED to be super tight . . . those two bolts hold the brakes on. plus deal with the constant heat soak cycles.

OEM manual says the bolts have to be replaced if removed.

large torque wrench and an extension tube should do it.

Sorted. Thanks. I've had to use the original bolts but put lock thread on them. Not sure if this is ok. If not, it will have to do for now until I get new ones. I've seen a lot of videos on YouTube and they use original bolts? Any idea why they have to be new?

 

[Dellmassive]

certain bolts (like Head bolts etc) are single use and torque to yield or stretch bolts.

i think the idea is that when they are torqued up they "stretch slightly"

The idea is that once they have been torqued up and stretched, removing and refitting them . . . they cant be stretched again as they will be weaker and could break.?

Thats the VW OEM manual and the way that the dealer will follow. - (and also charge you for new carrier bolts)

YouTube mechanics will follow the standard mechanics view - if it come out, then it can go back in.

+++

edit:

though i gota say i wonder how may places actually replace them? (appart from a main dealer that is?)

eg if you took the van to a VW indy or even High-Street tyres & brakes place . . . . . would they fit new bolt? . .

we would have to see a quote from a garage, to see if the were charging for new bolts on a disk job?

i would bet most places wouldn't fit new?

 

[cy294]

certain bolts (like Head bolts etc) are single use and torque to yield or stretch bolts.

i think the idea is that when they are torqued up they "stretch slightly"

The idea is that once they have been torqued up and stretched, removing and refitting them . . . they cant be stretched again as they will be weaker and could break.?

Thats the VW OEM manual and the way that the dealer will follow. - (and also charge you for new carrier bolts)

YouTube mechanics will follow the standard mechanics view - if it come out, then it can go back in.

Thanks again, this forum is fab. Like I say I've used the originals. I'll order new ones and then refit them

 

[DXX]

Thanks again, this forum is fab. Like I say I've used the originals. I'll order new ones and then refit them

Best make sure you have the new bolts before you start the job.