Upgrading Starter Battery - how to guide

Stop start, kicked in last night for this first time in god knows how long... Like you said I think it just needs a bit of time. Nothing to do with a long drive, van had been sat on the drive for days and I only took it five mins down the road when it kicked in.
Roughly 10x drive cycles?
 
Yep. Ignitions probably been on and off way more than 10 times as I've been busy coding various bits and bobs/moving the van around the drive etc etc. But I reckon 10 (ish) genuine journeys, nothing long only ever 5/6 miles tops
 
Just to update the forums, I was able to register a new Bosch 95Ah battery this morning using Carista. I have a 2015 T6 140 (Euro 5). Hopefully its worked and registered it correctly! Any way to tell?Battery.png
 
Just ordered a Bosch S5 A13 95Ah Battery off Tayna on their ebay site with 20% off using the code 'PARTY' £143.99 delivered next day.
Bosch batteries are apparently made by Varta but come with a 5 year guarantee over the Varta's 4 years.
Were there any problems registering your new battery please? I'm hoping to get a new starter battery. I have a new Carista so can use that to register it.
 
Hi all. I'm a new member here and this is my first post on here so be easy with me !
We have a 21 plate T6 T28 with a really nice conversion. The problem really is us! The van hasn't had a lot of use as its the wrong time of year for us to go camping and the battery has depleted down to just a few volts.
I've disconnected the battery but left all the gizmo alone that's on top of it and connected a charger to the battery. That was a couple of days ago and it does look like the battery is taking the charge. As it looks like there's a battery monitoring system on the negative lead will I need to re-code it when I connect or will it sort itself out.
Also, if I do need to re-set it can I use my OBD11 reader to do it? Its an Icarsoft that I use for my XF but it does have OBD11. Thanks. M
 
Just had to get a new battery old one dead had to get vw assist out went for bosh S5 AO8. Not the cheapest but 5 year warranty.
 
A regular OBDII reader won't cut it, you'll need VCDS or Carista to code in a new battery correctly, replacing like for like you could get away without recoding as the van will work around the change eventually but any change in capacity or type will need intervention to ensure correct charging regime.
 
Well that doesn't seam too bad as the battery going back on the van is the one that came off. From what I'm reading on here It'll take up to ten starts of the engine for it to re-calibrate. Is this correct?
 
The van will have lost its measurement of the batteries state of charge, if the battery is ok and holding a charge properly then everything should work fine and the van will slowly alignment with the batteries charge state over time

Not sure its a finite as number of drives think it will relate more to energy moving in and out of the battery, if it was me i wouldnt be overly concerned unless you strat having issues
Just remember if the battery has been left flat for a period of time then some extent of damage will have been caused to the batteries capacity, worth keeping in mind if you get anymore issues moving forward
 
  • Like
Reactions: mmi
I think my starter batt is on the way out. It is normally trickle charged from my leisure batt so usually sits around 12.3V when parked.

I thought I would give it a charge today connected directly to a Victron 12/7 smart charger. In bulk the voltage is rising to circa 13.2 and then dropping back to 11.8 before repeating. There are no loads connected.

Does this indicate a failing battery?
15E1588E-B4CE-4C0F-818E-BEE3945F82FA.pngE4FC6398-5ECF-4BF0-9BE5-338F35139966.png0B49D3E2-DB2E-4D00-841D-3148186C2C2B.png
 
So after leaving my van unused for 8 days it’s nearly totally flat ….. no interior light, no remote locking put it on charge for a couple of hours - no real improvement so at 6 years old - first battery was a Moll which VW changed about 4.5 years ago.

so I’ve just been reading this thread with trepidation !

if I can get a new battery tomorrow (need it for work on Monday am) what would happen if I can’t code it ? I have Carista but think it won’t help

any comments appreciated

thanks
 
if I can get a new battery tomorrow (need it for work on Monday am) what would happen if I can’t code it ?
Just drop it in and recalibrate windows comfort closing (below).
After battery disconnect you need to recalibrate windows comfort closing - one touch closing (affects also folding mirrors).
Take the window all the way down then hold the button down for a few seconds then take window all the way up then hold the button up for a few seconds. The same for the other window.
The battery management will gradually calibrate itself to the new battery. Certainly the adaptation won't happen overnight but it will catch up in a few weeks.
 
From flat, with a regular 5A charger (typical charge rate for readily available chargers from local stores) it is going to take around 10 hours to get it back to full charge.
Leave it on charge overnight at least and try again.
Carista will recode batteries according to their website so if recharging doesn't bring it back to life enough to use, a new one can be dropped in anytime,
 
I think my starter batt is on the way out. It is normally trickle charged from my leisure batt so usually sits around 12.3V when parked.

I thought I would give it a charge today connected directly to a Victron 12/7 smart charger. In bulk the voltage is rising to circa 13.2 and then dropping back to 11.8 before repeating. There are no loads connected.

Does this indicate a failing battery?
View attachment 185697View attachment 185699View attachment 185698
I use both pieces of kit on mine. Never seen it climb to the 13.27v and drop again it just stays at 13.3v - 13.5v and stays there until the float kicks in. What happens if you just run the engine? Mine will climb right up to 14.8v and charge until it reaches a certain level, gradually drops to 13.5v - ish and the stabilises.

Then the Euro6 setting kicks in and only charges the battery when you brake or slow down and will peak to about 14.7v for the period you are slowing down. It was explained to me by @travelvolts the the battery will only normally charge to 85-90% and the peaks generated from slowing down just keeps it topped up.
 
If I run the engine it charges as you describe. I cannot fathom why it fluctuates the way it does and it has only done this since I switched the leisure batt to lithium.
 
I assume you have a DC-DC charger for the lithium leisure battery charging and are not just relying on a split charge relay?
 
Back
Top