Hi, for a 2016 T^ 140BHP 4motion what batter and AH would you recommend please, currently its
Hi, for a 2016 T^ 140BHP 4motion what batter and AH would you recommend please, currently its 60A/h but I have a feeling that this was not the original battery?
Thanking you all in advance.
Exide EK950 is what I've just fitted to my T6, fits in fine and was no problem even with the additional cables for hook up etc.
Ebay was the cheapest for that. I wasn't too bothered about the 5yr warranty as I probably wont keep it that long so 3yrs was fine for me.
Linky
Thanks well spotted, I have changed now.Should that 095 GU3 1234567891 not be TU3 for Exide?
Thanks once again I have managed to get to it with your help. Thank you for the fast response.Battery type is in Module 61-Battery Regul. Coding bits 4-7 in byte 2 from 70 EFB to 10 AGM. (See first page of this thread) However if your old battery was AGM and the new one is AGM then there's no need to change anything
Hello, do I take it that if you replace the battery with one of an identical specification then you won't need to re-code the vehicle? Also when changing the battery, will disconnecting the old one (with the key not in the ignition) will this do anything to any of the electronics?You should be able to get it replaced for a varta under warranty.
But if you change it your self you can add the new battery via VCDS in the energy management module.
Make, model serial, capacity.
And do basic settings to relearn all stored settings.
Hello, thankyou for getting back. No need to apologise. I don't check in on here very often so didn't see your response for a while. My issue is with VW's inconsideration, competence and thought processes Vehicle is being used regularly at moment so battery not much of an issue just yet. Once it gets warmer I'll did out my multimeter. Regards StephenSorry for late reply @pikeman2210 , just caught up with this thread.
If you are still having issues, you could do the drain tests yourself if you have a decent multimeter.
Watch a few of Ivan’s videos on you tube (pine hollow auto diagnostics) one of his most recent vids showed a 7 hour epic drain trace that found an rf module faulty on a lincoln (ford).
You can use the same methodology to do it yourself, just be aware of how to use the meter for current and voltage measurements and don’t overload the meter when its connected in series on current tests by turning the van on or switching any high drain items on.
Thanks.You can just replace like for like and not do anything else but any 'learning' that the ECU has done whilst the old battery was in use (capacity drop over time etc) will take some time to be 'un-learnt' as it were. just a lot easier to reset everything and it can start afresh with the new battery and its expected characteristics.
This is the reason for the serial number being recorded, a like for like change wouldn't change any of the other parameters (capacity/manufacturer/type) but the different serial number tells the ECU that a new battery has been fitted and that's how it knows to reset to initial charging and usage profiles.
You may lose things like window auto close by disconnecting the battery but nothing that can't be relearnt/reprogrammed without the use of VCDS/Carista/OBD11.
My bad I quickly scrolledSee post #7 in this thread from @mmi , you would be using 095 TU3 1024035743