FrankFisher
Member
Thanks, what battery monitor do you use?
Upgrading Starter Battery - how to guide
- Thread starter Grim Reaper
- Start date
Check that the sense cable on the RHS of the battery hasn't been pinched and is now cut. It's easy to miss the cable when fitting the bigger battery
Are you referring to the sensor for the battery regulator / negative pole?
As widely recommended in this forum...
Yes, its the only sense cable directly connected to the battery post.
Thanks for confirming, I suddenly wondered if I had buried something under my new Exide "beast"
As I had a few engine faults recently I had obdeleven connected and noticed the battery voltage immediately after engine off is 12v and then dropping to about 11.8.
Normal?? I didn't notice or pay attention in the past.
Normal?? I didn't notice or pay attention in the past.
Battery is new from Feb and an has a minimum of 2 1 hours drives a week.
Will look for a multimeter and check terminal voltage
Will look for a multimeter and check terminal voltage
Well I'm getting 14.6v with engine running, I coded the larger capacity battery, think I did it properly. Would be interesting if anyone else with a varta g14 95ah battery could check their battery voltage. Maybe didn't code it properly.........
Wondering if my factory fit leisure battery is dead and that's why I have a drop.....
Hmmm... OBDeleven connected - it means the ignition must be on. There is approx. 25 Amp drain when ignition is on. If the voltage is what OBDeleven shows, it's measured from OBD port where the ECU current draw has a sigificant effect.
Sounds correct to me. T6 cycles charging voltage at very low pace between 14.6, 13.4, and sometimes let's battery drain a bit by not actually charging battery for 10-20 mins while driving.
On Climatic AC one can "force" T6 keep charging voltage at minimum of 13.4 Volts by keeping heater blower at setting 2 or higher. Can't confirm if it's the same with Multivan's Climatronic. Perhaps @Robert have taken notes about this.
Thanks, will try the fan at 2 or above.. trying to work out how I can perform data logging with obdeleven and see what it says
Charts?
What are you trying find out?
Charging cycle or values
Not sure if this helps but anyways... I have been observing the following
OBDeleven - Battery Regulation (61)
Channel - Field
18-1 Battery voltage
18-2 Battery current
19-1 Battery level
19-2 Battery Condition
19-3 Battery aging (Power)
19-4 Battery Aging (Charge)
20-1 Battery's internal resistance
20-2 Battery's internal resistance (normalized)
20-3 Available battery charge
26-1 Generator current
26-2 Generator current reserve
The bolded ones definitely are real time measurements, the others are some kind of estimates/calculated over time.
Thank you , will see what I can see
My T6 is 4.5 yrs old and I am still having battery issues from new. Every time the van isn't used for a week or so the battery goes flat. Last month the battery went completely flat after not being used for 6 days. I had to use my key to open the door. The van has been back to VW twice under warranty. First time the battery was replaced, second time the battery module replaced. Since I am only aware of an issue when the van isn't used it has been 11 months since it this scenario has arisen and VW are not prepared to look at it free of charge, even though I was told verbally last time they probably would. I've done a bit a researching and it seems to me that VW should have carried out a sacrificial leakage test (Current leakage) certainly the second time it went back. I guess they didn't because they think of what is the easiest and simplest thing they can change which might work. I would think that testing for current drop when on each fuse would be time consuming say a couple of man hours when changing a Battery module is quicker and hence cheaper. Would I be correct in my assumptions? I have not given up on this. Since each time the van went back required them to keep it overnight and thus 3 x 40 minute round trips for 2 vehicles and fuel. Plus if I complain to the Ombudsman then I believe VW have to pay a fee. So all in all I think it would be cheaper for VW to certainly agree to do a current leakage test for free. What do folk think? Regards Stephen
Sorry for late reply @pikeman2210 , just caught up with this thread.
If you are still having issues, you could do the drain tests yourself if you have a decent multimeter.
Watch a few of Ivan’s videos on you tube (pine hollow auto diagnostics) one of his most recent vids showed a 7 hour epic drain trace that found an rf module faulty on a lincoln (ford).
You can use the same methodology to do it yourself, just be aware of how to use the meter for current and voltage measurements and don’t overload the meter when its connected in series on current tests by turning the van on or switching any high drain items on.
If you are still having issues, you could do the drain tests yourself if you have a decent multimeter.
Watch a few of Ivan’s videos on you tube (pine hollow auto diagnostics) one of his most recent vids showed a 7 hour epic drain trace that found an rf module faulty on a lincoln (ford).
You can use the same methodology to do it yourself, just be aware of how to use the meter for current and voltage measurements and don’t overload the meter when its connected in series on current tests by turning the van on or switching any high drain items on.
Hi, for a 2016 T^ 140BHP 4motion what batter and AH would you recommend please, currently its 60A/h but I have a feeling that this was not the original battery?
Thanking you all in advance.
Thanking you all in advance.
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