What length electric hook-up cable?

Personally I take a 25mt 10mt and a 3 way adaptor dependent on set up
25mt straight to van no awning
With awning
25mt to 3 way in awning 1outlet to van with the 10mt
The other outlet does electrics in awning
 
We take a 10 metre and a 25 metre cable and, naturally, use the shorter one when possible because it is lighter and a lot less to dry when rolling it up when wet. After visiting 80 campsites, I have only daisy-chained them once and although this was not essential, it was more convenient. I also carry a mains tester and a short cross-over lead because I was caught out once on the continent. The blue IEC connector on the bollard was incorrectly wired and so the Sargent Control Unit (EC200) and Power Supply (PSU2007) refused to switch on.

The Camping & Caravanning Club (C&CC) state [1], "A pitch with electrical hook-up will have an electrical supply bollard within about 20 metres."
The Caravan & Motorhome Club (C&MC) state [2], "The maximum permitted distance between socket outlet and any point on the caravan pitch is 20 metres. The hook up lead should be 25 metres (+/- 2 metres) ..."

Richard.

[1] #30 Electricity for campers and caravanners - The Camping and Caravanning Club
[2] https://www.caravanclub.co.uk/advice-and-training/technical-advice/mains-electrical-installation/
 
25m long lead here saved the day and fighting over the nearest hook up point when the caravan next door being babied onto his pitch by the helpful staff minutes after we had parked up promptly took the only remaining skt.

Our lead went the full 25m like a trip wire to the next adjacent hook ups... I gave him the "thanks mate" look but as he was bigger than me and it was their first camping trip too I just let the tyre down on his Freelander instead when he was emptying their poop tank... ok, the wife did.:oops:
 
We carry one about 10 metre cable with two outlets on the van end which is used when ever the EHU is within reach. Additionally we carry two 25 metre cables to reach where ever they are needed plus a three way adaptor.

You may ask where would you need 50 metres of cable. Well if you wander France using the rural Aires you will come across many that need more than 25 metre and often don't have enough EHUs to go around. With the second outlet of my short cable and the three way adaptor you can do like the French do and share supplies when necessary. Yes it's frowned upon in the UK where we must comply with EU rules (?) but you quickly find that we are one of the few EU member countries who bother with the so called 'rules'.

There is two simple rules to observe...
  1. Use your own common sense for health and safety, trip hazard, snagging by moving vehicles, etc.
  2. Never leave coils of cable as they generate heat when current is drawn through the coil and can create a fire!
 
BS7671 “ the regs” also known as “the electricians bible” states that the maximum length of cable to be used between a camping pitch socket and the leisure accommodation should be no more than 25M. For a current rating of 16A the cable shall be a minimum of 2.5 mm. The maximum distance allowed between the pitch supply and the vehicle or tent on its pitch is 20M. All connection equipment should be ratedIP4X, that means all your plugs and sockets should be those big blue chunky ones. Make sure that they are connected the right way round. If making your own, use orange cable for its high visibility. As stated by others in this thread, make sure that the extension cable is fully laid out no matter how close you are to the supply socket, which should be protected by a 30mA RCD, as a coiled/tangled cable can get very hot under a constant load especially on a summers day.
 
BS7671 “ the regs” also known as “the electricians bible” states that the maximum length of cable to be used between a camping pitch socket and the leisure accommodation should be no more than 25M. For a current rating of 16A the cable shall be a minimum of 2.5 mm. The maximum distance allowed between the pitch supply and the vehicle or tent on its pitch is 20M. All connection equipment should be ratedIP4X, that means all your plugs and sockets should be those big blue chunky ones. Make sure that they are connected the right way round. If making your own, use orange cable for its high visibility. As stated by others in this thread, make sure that the extension cable is fully laid out no matter how close you are to the supply socket, which should be protected by a 30mA RCD, as a coiled/tangled cable can get very hot under a constant load especially on a summers day.
Obviously the French/Spanish/Portuguese/Italians etc haven’t read the regs. I’ll be sure to point this out to them:rolleyes:
 
Besides the obvious reason that a coil prevents convection airflow from individual turns, its the inductance of the coil itself, this increases the impedance of the feed and therefore increases the power lost as heat
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The cable has a positive temperature coefficient (resistance vs temperature), so the hotter it gets, the even hotter it gets
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I take both a 25m lead and a 5m lead. The 25m lead goes to the awning to a splitter - the 5m lead then goes from the splitter (in the awning) to the van.

I then run a 4 way 3 pin socket from the splitter to power coolbox, awning lights etc.
 
its the inductance of the coil itself

I like the theory but the inductance of a 25m coil at 50 Hz in negligible.

The cable has a positive temperature coefficient (resistance vs temperature), so the hotter it gets, the even hotter it gets

Agreed. Buts we are talking about campervans not kitchen cookers.
 
Its easy to get irreverent with mains - lets be careful out there
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Dilbert said:
... campervans not kitchen cookers...
Agreed but what I was pointing out is the accumulation of even small sources when no heat can escape
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Just trying to be practical in the aplication. Not compromising safety.....;)
 
Its easy to get irreverent with mains - lets be careful out there
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Agreed but what I was pointing out is the accumulation of even small sources when no heat can escape
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Currently (did you see what I did there?) in Portugal, it’s 30+ in the shade, my hookup cable (black HOR7N waaay tougher & heat resistant than PVC) is probably getting towards 80 deg laid out in the midday sun, far hotter than it would ever get coiled up in its bag supplying the itsy bitsy 3 or 4 A that the van takes. Even when we have the leccy kettle on, it’s only for a couple of minutes that it takes to boil. In winter, we run a 1kw fan heater, but that’s in errr winter, when things are a tad cooler. Even then it’s only pulling 4.5A ish. Let’s not get hung up on the theory.
 
Thanks all for the interesting postings.

I use a 25m Maypole orange hook up cable from Go Outdoors for my purchased Camper Conversion. In the van I have a Sargent EC 155 Power Control System which includes a 40A - 30mA RCD and three MCBs.

Most of the sites I have been to have a 10A EHU. I always fully unwind the hook up cable. Off of one of the 10A MCBs in the PSU, I have three 240v sockets. I keep my load on the sockets to a maximum 2,200w. I use a 3,300w Tassimo, 1000w blower heater, 1,000w toaster (but only have one on at any given time) as well as a TV, 240v battery charger.

Not had any issues up to now, however anyone see any problems that I could have with the 10amp EHU supply?

I am operating in a safe manner?
 
I keep my load on the sockets to a maximum 2,200w. I use a 3,300w Tassimo, 1000w blower heater, 1,000w toaster (but only have one on at any given time) as well as a TV, 240v battery charger.

Just as well the 'kitchen sink' does not need any power! :rofl: The whole lot on together is over 23 A.....

How do you limit the load to 2.2KW when the Tassimo is 3.3KW ??? o_O
 
Thanks all for the interesting postings.

I use a 25m Maypole orange hook up cable from Go Outdoors for my purchased Camper Conversion. In the van I have a Sargent EC 155 Power Control System which includes a 40A - 30mA RCD and three MCBs.

Most of the sites I have been to have a 10A EHU. I always fully unwind the hook up cable. Off of one of the 10A MCBs in the PSU, I have three 240v sockets. I keep my load on the sockets to a maximum 2,200w. I use a 3,300w Tassimo, 1000w blower heater, 1,000w toaster (but only have one on at any given time) as well as a TV, 240v battery charger.

Not had any issues up to now, however anyone see any problems that I could have with the 10amp EHU supply?

I am operating in a safe manner?
The supply MCB in the campsite hookup point will protect your cable & installation. Regardless of what you try & use, you are limited by the supply MCB.
 
The supply MCB in the campsite hookup point will protect your cable & installation. Regardless of what you try & use, you are limited by the supply MCB.

Thanks Salty Spuds. Much appreciated reassurance :thumbsup: (just found where to get the emoji. Every day's a learning day)
 
The supply MCB in the campsite hookup point will protect your cable & installation. Regardless of what you try & use, you are limited by the supply MCB.
And don’t you just hate it when just one vehicle overloads the bollard and it trips out cutting off everyone else who is plugged in. You then, usually in the early hours, are out in your pj’s trying to reset and figure out which numpty it is so you can unplug them, reset and scarper back to your camper to spy on the one Motorhome (usually a huge Hymer) who are now in complete darkness and trying to figure out why their 48inch plasma etc isn’t working anymore.
Oh the joys of camping.......
 
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