great, thanks for the quick replies. i'll look into the Lensun panel. is there a good thread about fixing panels to roofs someone can point me to? we've got a pop-top...Lensun do a 150w flexible panel that’s only 21 volts so that would work with the cetek.
I swapped out my CTEK for a Renogy DC30S so I could connect a similar panel. It was a simple solution as all the wiring was in place from the CTEK and I just needed to connect the solar. I then sold the CTEK so it ended up being pretty cost effective. Renogy looks to be on offer just now on both 30A and 50A versions.On a similar note, I've just discovered that a flexible solar panel Which is now stuck on my roof, was sold to me as having a voc of 21.2, but during installation the label was taken from the back, so the adhesive could bond direct to panel. The following day I'm reading the label and it states a voc of 23.4, I have a CTEK250 fitted.
Apart from my arguing this out with the seller what are my other solutions?
No, the 48V is in relation to the output voltage of the solar controller (battery side), not the panel open circuit voltage. You want a 12V output. With that size of solar panel (345W) you’re going to want a sizeable controller such as the 100/30.back to the forum with a variation on my question from yesterday. i've now been offered a Canadian Solar CS3l-345P residential panel for our van with the following specs:
Pmax : 345W
Vmp: 32.8V
lmp: 10.52A
Voc: 39.8V
lsc: 11.06A
massive overkill for our needs, but as it's free i'm going to take it. my plan is to get a Victron SmartSolar 100V 20A 48V MPPT as this seems to be the only Victron MPPT that can handle the 40V from the panel. Is this a good idea? is there anything else i should be thinking about?
my setup so far:
Victron Blue Smart IP22 charger
CTEK D250SE DC/DC charger
Hankook DC31MF Leisure battery - 100AH
thanks
it's 20kg, i was gonna mount at the back near the hinges.How heavy is that panel, you said you had a pop top so you want to make sure it’s not too heavy to effect the ease of lifting the pop top. You also might want to add a second leisure battery to benefit from 345W’s
Hi did you order one, I’m converting but thinking something like this might be better but not many reviews uk based? Thanks PhilI've been looking at solar recently and the new Renogy CIGS 150w panel has caught my eye...
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Renogy 150 Watt CIGS Flexible Thin-film Solar Panel
150 watt solar panel, solar panel 150W, 150W solar panel,150 watt CIGS solar panel, 150W CIGS solar panel, CIGS 150W solar panel, 150W 12V solar panel, 150W Flexible panelsuk.renogy.com
150w, bigger than a standard semi-flexible 150w but with vastly improved flexibility, 25y warranty, and much improved shading performance.
Anyone else considered these/have them already?
They're 646mm wide and 1658mm long, and after a quick measure of my roof, I reckon I'd be able to squeeze 2x on, side by side. It'd be REALLY tight mind you!
VOC on these is 24v (23.7v on the page specs but 24v on the pdf) which means with the added voltage at low temps, a pair would be just over the 50voc limit of the Renogy IP67 DC-DC charger. So when the time comes I'll probably order 1 of them to check the fitment, then if I want 2 I'll run in parallel, or get a separate MPPT controller.
No, sorry - I went for a 300w rigid panel mounted on a full size roof rack.Hi did you order one, I’m converting but thinking something like this might be better but not many reviews uk based? Thanks Phil
This is the reason why I mounted mine to 4mm twin wall and then bonded the twin wall to the roof with double sided tape, the panel is not affected by the roof warming at a different rate to the panelThe fundamental problem with panels bonded to a roof, is the difference in expansion rates between the panel & roof. If the panel expands faster (it will, because it’s black & is the first thing the sun hits, it’s basically shading the roof & keeping it cooler) then the panel will try to buckle, because the roof is preventing it from expanding. Over the day, the roof warms up & expands. When the sun goes down, the panel is the first to shrink, but is being held back by the now expanded roof. The metal components in the roof shrink & cracks in the conductors start to form.
A panel that is mounted so it can float, will expand & contract independently of the roof, hence longer life. Plus rigid panels are glass, not plastic, so thermal movement is less.