the Vic` Orion runs red hot at 30A flat out on a lithium,. . .

thats why i sold mine, . . ( it was getting way to hot and boiling its self in the double bench base that has no natural airflow as the seat box is basicialy a sealed box.)

i run the Renogy 50A dc/mppt - but used the APP to current limit to 30A. - that keeps things cool as,

and thats on the Roamer 230sb lifepo4,

normal daily drive of 2hrs each way to/from work. . . . . so the charger gets a good kicking every day.


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and then seperate mobile solar when camping . . .


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In terms of installation both (renogy vs isolated) are quite straigh forward right? As I see in both diagram just to connect input -/+ and out -/+ without ground etc..

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Yeh, they all the same.

Common ground.

Then starter and leisure feed.

Plus an ignition feed if you want.

Note: all battery conections must be fused.
 
the ignition feed is the b
Yeh, they all the same.

Common ground.

Then starter and leisure feed.

Plus an ignition feed if you want.

Note: all battery conections must be fused.

When you say all the connections must be fused. In regony wire diagram, there is only one fuse. So it means we need to add a fuse close to regony for the red wire?

Another thing. Do you use 8 AWG or 6 AWG wire ? which size for the fuse: 60A? and finally, does it make any differences between using ANL fuse or Midi fuse?
 
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Yes, the Renogy diagram is a few fuses short. With mine, I have a fuses close to the Renogy for connection to vehicle and leisure batteries. At the battery end there is also a fuse. The vehicle battery one is already there on a spare fused connector on top of the battery. Leisure battery has a fuse next to it as well. There can be power supplied to these cables from both ends, so need to fuse both ends.
 
The battery conections must be fused.

Both the starter and the leisure battery
 
mines screwed to wood board in the passenger double base.

others have used this sort of bracket: ( or made there own)





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How did you mount the Renogy in the seatbase Dell ?
thanks
My build thread, link below, has photos of the Renogy built into the passenger seat base along with a TN Power 100ah battery, fusebox, shunt and bluetooth bits.
Its quite tight but doable. Pay attention to getting a gap under the Renogy so it can circulate air round the cooling fins.
The v4 unit has a larger heat sink than earlier units.
 
guys, which fuses your use and cable?

Renogy documentation is a bit misleading. Some places it says 8 AWG for 1-5M and some places it says 6AWG for 1-5M.

The same for the fuses, some places it says 75A and some places 60A for the 50A unit.
 
btw anyone bought BT2 bluetooh module from renogy? what is the difference with Victron Energy Smart Battery Sense? thanks!
 
I’ve got one of these. It shows the current flowing into the battery from solar or vehicle, and also what’s happening with the vehicle battery. It also has a history - not every datapoint, but min/max for each day.
 
I’ve got one of these. It shows the current flowing into the battery from solar or vehicle, and also what’s happening with the vehicle battery. It also has a history - not every datapoint, but min/max for each day.
I should add it’s connected to the Renogy DC 50. My Renogy battery came with Bluetooth. The charge current reading on the battery isn’t very well calibrated, so it always reports lower state of charge than actual. I go by the Voltage now, which appears to be accurate.
 
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