Which victron DC to DC to buy?
- Thread starter sipep
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- dc - dc charger victron
Ok, that'll do it!
To be fair, I often follow this process too:
Step 1) Spec out requirements, carefully consider options, weigh up budget vs utility...
Step 2) IMPULSE BUY MASSIVE SHINY THING!
Anyway, it'll definitely do what you want, and you can add solar at a later date if required.
Isolated is only needed if you don’t have a common negative such as on a glass fibre boat. Non isolated for a van but you can use isolated too if you want. No, it doesn’t need an ignition wire but you can if you want. Instruction manual is available on Victron’s website or 12voltplanet.
Thanks, i assumed so with regards to using a non isolated and the common chassis negative. I wasn’t sure of the pros and cons of using/not using an ignition feed. Is it simply to turn the unit on and off?
I’ll have a read of the manual. Thank you.
I would run the ignition feed.
I didn't initially and the engine shut down detection is a pain in the arse to get right, due to the van's alternator only charging the starter battery to 70% and then only topping up battery on deceleration.
The starter voltage can be seen as low as 12.1v for reasonable durations when the BMS has decided that no more voltage is necessary and this plays havoc with trying to configure the shutdown detection so that the dc-dc charger isn't cycling power more regularly than it should.
I didn't initially and the engine shut down detection is a pain in the arse to get right, due to the van's alternator only charging the starter battery to 70% and then only topping up battery on deceleration.
The starter voltage can be seen as low as 12.1v for reasonable durations when the BMS has decided that no more voltage is necessary and this plays havoc with trying to configure the shutdown detection so that the dc-dc charger isn't cycling power more regularly than it should.
Hi,
I could do with some help. I'm also looking at swapping out my current ctek d250sa for a victron dc to dc charger 30a.
I'm not sure which one I need, isolated or non isolated. My ctek only has one negative, which, looking online is non isolated, but what do I need?
Current set up.
2016 highline
120ah leisure battery (currently lead acid, but will be changing for lithium)
All 13v electrics, no sockets. Just usb's/ 6 spot lights and a fridge. Does have an ehu but only 1 x 2g socket connected to that at minute with a victron 15a battery charger charging the LB when on site.
I will also, be adding solar at some point, looking 200w
Get the victon xs.
You can set the limiter via the app.
You can set the limiter via the app.
Okay mate ill look into them. Got to do the dc dc before the kitchen as the ctek is hidden behind the carpet
Second the Orion XS
In a T6/6.1 you can use isolated or non isolated, it doesn't matter. Only difference is an isolated charger allows you to have separate grounds for each battery.
In a boat hull or a coachbuilt motorhome where you wouldn't/couldn't use the metal body as a common ground you can only use an isolated one.
In a T6/6.1 you can use isolated or non isolated, it doesn't matter. Only difference is an isolated charger allows you to have separate grounds for each battery.
In a boat hull or a coachbuilt motorhome where you wouldn't/couldn't use the metal body as a common ground you can only use an isolated one.
Thank you, just looked them up. Will get one
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