Ground strap is good, fuses all look good. I haven’t inspected the wiring harness around the ECU but it hasn’t been touched around there so can’t imagine it being that, plus the time lag whilst it’s doing it is always exactly the same. I’d expect varying time durations if it was a wire break or...
Can I throw in a couple of random thoughts?
Have you checked all of the earthstraps between battery - chassis - engine?
Are you measuring the voltage between the +ve terminal and chassis or -ve terminal? If the latter try the former.
Ditch the digital meter and use an analog one, that will...
...Then fit pin wire in pin 36
Pin 11 goes to the ebox under your main battery.
It’s a bugger to get too. I found removing the thick black earthstrap allowed me to pull up the row of plugs high enough to remove the bottom black and purple plug.
You use a thicker pin wire connection to fit into...
Hi mmi
I measured the cam and crank speed using live data both were giving me a speed signal when cranking. I’ve been in at the relays and fuses all seem to be powered up
Thanks
I was wondering if the electrical fault was sending me on a wild goose chase.
...motor if you can get to the large positive. Disconnect the battery first to avoid shorting the large positive to earth though! Check earthstraps.
Have you tried removing the earth lead of the battery and allowing all the ECUs to reset?
Could be a dead relay or fuse not allowing a...
glad your sorted. . .
@Loz should take the credit for this. (corroded main engine earthstrap)
hes mentioned it in the past a few times.
I've not come across the issues myself on a T6, but i have seen it on other vehicles.
an old skool jumper cable is the easiest way to prove the fault.
...
I will need to get that checked.
I looked at the ground strap. The studs and nuts are very rusty. Is the corrosion issue with the actual earth cable itself or is it the fact the suds and nuts are corroded an issue?
The alternator obviously is charging as the day I picked the van up the...
...running and flattening the battery.
Have a Search
EDIT: The battery still shouldn’t be flat after running a small electrical pump for 10 minutes so it maybe you also have a defective battery which needs load testing / replacement. Also check the main earthstrap on the right hand side engine...
Check the earthstrap between the chassis and engine (look down the left-hand side of the engine).
Also, try using the neg lead of your jump leads to join the battery negative terminal to the engine block.
https://aasolar.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Installation-Manual-of-LCD-Battery-Computer-100S200S400S-with-smart-shunt.pdf
this is my shunt meter - the thick earth goes directly to battery behind and the other is to DCDC, earthstrap is to seat bolt.
Check the earthstraps, in particular from the chassis to the engine (cambelt end). corroding terminals can cause a voltage drop under heavy current draw.
Battery fully charged reads 13.7v after 10 seconds with a heavy duty discharge tester the battery still reads 12.4v and the tester says it is in the green. (The battery was disconnected from the vehicle for this test). My feeling is that the battery is fine but that there is something wrong...
Check the earthstrap between the chassis and engine (at the Cambelt end) I have just helped a member with a similar non-starter and the terminal had corroded.
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