Any cable coming off the battery should have a fuse on it rated to protect the rating of the cable, and that fuse should be as close as possible to the source of power (the battery) as practical - they're there to protect against the wiring shorting in a fault and setting fire to your van.
It's...
My EcoFlow Alternator Charger has arrived!
Very well packaged and well built, a quality feel to the unit and cables. The Cable required to run to the battery is pretty thick to say the least, so will need some careful routing.
Thinking I may site the unit under the passenger seat.
Hope to get...
Hello,
Bought a camper earlier this year and it came with a duff flexi solar panel - it had been perimeter sealed so likely overheated within its first summer.
Last weekend I bit the bullet and worked/prized it off...
And sat the new 200w fixed frames in place. I didn't like how they...
Is there a legitimate way to add a portable solar panel to trickle charge a battery without having to drill holes in the van? I usually use hookup but have a couple festivals coming up.
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
So I finally got the time to add the MPPT.
Thanks to everyone that helped answer my questions. I didn't have enough room under the drivers seat so had rlto route the battery cables to the passenger base which was surprisingly easy.
Bit tight for space
Cables pulled though without a snag...
The chassis acts as a huge negative cable - so if your lights are connected on the positive cable to your leisure battery, and the negative is connected to the chassis near the lights, connecting the shunt P- to the chassis ground (via the busbar) means instead of a long negative going from the...
That's correct - if you check the instructions it says to connect the MPPT to the battery first so it can detect the voltage. You can also set all the settings via the app at that point. You can also wire in the PV cables without a panel connected, at the same time as the battery cables. Then...
Right the final bits turned up today, I need to get the seat off and have a proper measure up. But if I have to route the cables to the battery from under the passenger seat that should be OK.
So this is how I think it should be connected.
It's the order I would like to confirm...
I was going...
So I bit the bullet and invested in the narrow unit and I am pleased I went for the narrow as I can place my fridge in the void and routecables through the bottom of the drawer. All looks perfect
I was under impression if I started down this route I’d have to change all electrics / hook up etc, well beyond me, is this an incorrect assumption? Is this only required if I went down the lithium battery route?
Fitted the alpine CE2100RD camera. Mounted it to the spoiler so that i can keep an eye on the bike rack.
Routing the cable was fun. Small hole in high level brake light to feed the camera cable. Routing it down the barn door following the brake light cable and then behind the door lock...
The user manual states "The instant hot water appliance is an open vented system appliance. When not being operated the pressure is 1 bar. The operating pressure is 1.5 bar to 5 bar". Does that answer your pressurised system question?
I don't have any documentation re the [currently redundant]...
I suspect it's just an immersion element so no powered circulation in which case overrun is not an issue - I assume you also have a pressurised water system to feed it?
If it goes on and off with your inverter OK then you could switch it on the mains side, but that means you are going to have...
What was I thinking. Fitting it at the bottom the wiper can clean the window to give better visibility in case it's raining. Having it at the top the wiper won't reach. Also, much easier to fit.
That's what I ended up choosing to do :) The camera can be fixed on top of the plastic wiper motor cover and the cable can be routed inside the tailgate under the window and up the side to the rubber gaiter. I have the AUTO-VOX V5PRO and the rear camera has a decent field of view and adjustability.
yes, well it seems to be well documented that unsupported ridges is what causes the premature failures in the panels,
as it allows uneven thermal expansion which crack the busbars.
I've got flexible panels now 5years old that work perfect . . . as they are mobile and not stuck to a roof...
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