I've been looking at the bottom picture trying to work out why the panel has a bare metal strip with what looks like ware marks. Even looking at my one to see what it could be. Only this minute I've realised it's a damn key!!! Blowing my mind for hoursHi again. Thanks for your reply. After checking further I can see some cracks on mine!!! Please keep us updated on your efforts, my van is going to need work to strengthen now
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Has anyone got any other ways they have strengthened this area? Thanks
Sorry some predictive text errors there! I’ll check through it next time ;-)
Ha ha sorry about that! I should have wrote ‘key in shot for scale’I've been looking at the bottom picture trying to work out why the panel has a bare metal strip with what looks like ware marks. Even looking at my one to see what it could be. Only this minute I've realised it's a damn key!!! Blowing my mind for hours
Electric struts would reduce the forces at the hinge over the gas struts for sure.From that I can see the flex seems to occur when the tailgate reaches its open position and then when it’s pulled on to bring it back down. Also there maybe some flex when it closes on the catch.
I’m thinking electric opening/closing has arms and soft close catch may go some way to taking the stresses out and a lot friendlier and gentler
Thanks for the tag, not something we've ever delved into ourselves but have had customers interested and this is really useful info to know... I've always preferred to go for factory fitted in this regards as not a fan of seeing where the hinges were previously...wowzer . .
i cant believe that this has not been highlighted before?
its a very common conversion, to get a Cheaper BD van, then convert into a camper including the TG.
surely the previous people with cracked bodywork must have wondered what had happened.
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and just goes to show you that VW know exactly what they are doing.
ie fitting the strengthen plates where needed.
so basically and BD / TG conversion need welding and bodywork done.
without that you will end up with cracked roof or D pillars.
im defo worried about the people that have done this mod DIY, or for any converters that have done this as part of any conversion.
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lets ask some of our trade guys:
is this something that everyone is aware of? when doing the barn door to tailgate conversions? - that extra steel panels need welding in?
re: Barn-door To Tailgate Conversion
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I too am going to order part numbered 3, do you know the part number for 27 please? I’m thinking of pricing this up just incase it gets a bit butchered on removal cheersPart 27 is the outer most cross panel that is shared between BD and TG.
Part 28 is the strengthening plate for BD top strikers.
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Part 3 in the next picture is sandwiched in between part 27 in the above drawing and the roof panel. This part 3 is the part that is different for BD and TG.
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I'm still waiting on delivery of the panel before i start to dismantle it.I too am going to order part numbered 3, do you know the part number for 27 please? I’m thinking of pricing this up just incase it gets a bit butchered on removal cheers
Thank youI'm still waiting on delivery of the panel before i start to dismantle it.
Part number for 27 is
7E0817164D
Had a look earlier, well over 100+ spot welds to drill out to remove the panel. Going to be funThank you
I started removing the panel (27) and yes it does get bent and buckled in the process. There is quite a bit of bonding hidden along seams as well as all the spot welds so a lot of prying and bending to get it off without damaging the panels its bonded too. It can be repaired for refitting, but a lot of work in that alone tbh, may be more cost effective to get a new one. Knowing you have a new one will speed up the removal as you can cut the panel as you go to make it easier to get out.I too am going to order part numbered 3, do you know the part number for 27 please? I’m thinking of pricing this up just incase it gets a bit butchered on removal cheers