wowzer . .

i cant believe that this has not been highlighted before?

its a very common conversion, to get a Cheaper BD van, then convert into a camper including the TG.

surely the previous people with cracked bodywork must have wondered what had happened.


.........


and just goes to show you that VW know exactly what they are doing.

ie fitting the strengthen plates where needed.


so basically and BD / TG conversion need welding and bodywork done.


without that you will end up with cracked roof or D pillars.

im defo worried about the people that have done this mod DIY, or for any converters that have done this as part of any conversion.


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lets ask some of our trade guys:

is this something that everyone is aware of? when doing the barn door to tailgate conversions? - that extra steel panels need welding in?
re: Barn-door To Tailgate Conversion



@The Van Cave
@BognorMotors
@Eclipse Custom Vans
@AJCConversions
@Chilli Jam Vans
@VWVC
@LeightonVans
@Redknot Campers
@Eddcameron


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The D pillar plates arent really that much of a problem because the conversion plates you buy for the lower gas strut mounts utilise the already strengthened Barn door area. Pretty good work around tbh. Just looks a bit diy
 
From that I can see the flex seems to occur when the tailgate reaches its open position and then when it’s pulled on to bring it back down. Also there maybe some flex when it closes on the catch.
I’m thinking electric opening/closing has arms and soft close catch may go some way to taking the stresses out and a lot friendlier and gentler
 
FYI my TG has glass, never had a bike rack on. It does got open and closed around ten times a day on average
 
We've never done a conversion TBH, never been asked before. We had an bilbo van leaking at rear, found the roof to be split on both sides at rear
 
We converted ours in late 2020 and I’ve just checked ours and there is no cracking. FYI ours used a tailgate from a California which has a glass rear window and a bike rack with updated gas struts.

However, when opening I’ve always supported the door just before it reaches the fully open position by grabbing the strap on the inside - just thought this was a good idea because of the weight. No idea if this has made a difference.

IMG_5197.jpeg

IMG_5198.jpeg

IMG_5200.jpeg
 
Excuse the grime, the van has been sat for some time, and it will be washed before and fettling begins.

Here you can see how thin this area is. There is nothing behind it, just the roof panel.
"It is only Wafffer thiin"
1000012311.jpg
 
Hi again. Thanks for your reply. After checking further I can see some cracks on mine!!! Please keep us updated on your efforts, my van is going to need work to strengthen now

View attachment 246260

View attachment 246261

Has anyone got any other ways they have strengthened this area? Thanks
I've been looking at the bottom picture trying to work out why the panel has a bare metal strip with what looks like ware marks. Even looking at my one to see what it could be. Only this minute I've realised it's a damn key!!! Blowing my mind for hours
 
Sorry some predictive text errors there! I’ll check through it next time ;-)

I've been looking at the bottom picture trying to work out why the panel has a bare metal strip with what looks like ware marks. Even looking at my one to see what it could be. Only this minute I've realised it's a damn key!!! Blowing my mind for hours
Ha ha sorry about that! :rolleyes: I should have wrote ‘key in shot for scale’ :)
 
From that I can see the flex seems to occur when the tailgate reaches its open position and then when it’s pulled on to bring it back down. Also there maybe some flex when it closes on the catch.
I’m thinking electric opening/closing has arms and soft close catch may go some way to taking the stresses out and a lot friendlier and gentler
Electric struts would reduce the forces at the hinge over the gas struts for sure.
 
wowzer . .

i cant believe that this has not been highlighted before?

its a very common conversion, to get a Cheaper BD van, then convert into a camper including the TG.

surely the previous people with cracked bodywork must have wondered what had happened.


.........


and just goes to show you that VW know exactly what they are doing.

ie fitting the strengthen plates where needed.


so basically and BD / TG conversion need welding and bodywork done.


without that you will end up with cracked roof or D pillars.

im defo worried about the people that have done this mod DIY, or for any converters that have done this as part of any conversion.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

lets ask some of our trade guys:

is this something that everyone is aware of? when doing the barn door to tailgate conversions? - that extra steel panels need welding in?
re: Barn-door To Tailgate Conversion



@The Van Cave
@BognorMotors
@Eclipse Custom Vans
@AJCConversions
@Chilli Jam Vans
@VWVC
@LeightonVans
@Redknot Campers
@Eddcameron


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View attachment 246297

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View attachment 246298

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Thanks for the tag, not something we've ever delved into ourselves but have had customers interested and this is really useful info to know... I've always preferred to go for factory fitted in this regards as not a fan of seeing where the hinges were previously...
 
Part 27 is the outer most cross panel that is shared between BD and TG.
Part 28 is the strengthening plate for BD top strikers.
View attachment 246245


Part 3 in the next picture is sandwiched in between part 27 in the above drawing and the roof panel. This part 3 is the part that is different for BD and TG.
View attachment 246246
I too am going to order part numbered 3, do you know the part number for 27 please? I’m thinking of pricing this up just incase it gets a bit butchered on removal cheers
 
I too am going to order part numbered 3, do you know the part number for 27 please? I’m thinking of pricing this up just incase it gets a bit butchered on removal cheers
I'm still waiting on delivery of the panel before i start to dismantle it.

Part number for 27 is

7E0817164D​

 
I too am going to order part numbered 3, do you know the part number for 27 please? I’m thinking of pricing this up just incase it gets a bit butchered on removal cheers
I started removing the panel (27) and yes it does get bent and buckled in the process. There is quite a bit of bonding hidden along seams as well as all the spot welds so a lot of prying and bending to get it off without damaging the panels its bonded too. It can be repaired for refitting, but a lot of work in that alone tbh, may be more cost effective to get a new one. Knowing you have a new one will speed up the removal as you can cut the panel as you go to make it easier to get out.

The most effective way i have found to tackle the spot welds is by drilling a pilot hole all the way through the middle and using the small hole saw type spot weld cutter.
I first tried using my spot weld drill bits, the flat cut face type with the center pin, but due to the panel being mostly curved the bit would wander and walk making a right mess, and not getting all the weld cut.
The hole saw type is supposed to be used in a similar way, the spring loaded center pin pushing in to allow the cutter to engage, but these wander even more. If you drill straight through, the cutter stays in place and cuts cleanly through.

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I got the panel off, roughly 2 hours to do (over a few evenings when i had a spare 20) you could probably get it done in an hour if you were young and nimble and had enough time in one go. My shoulders are seriously aching from all the drilling, especially as every spot needs drilling twice (pilot then core).
Parcel Force are saying wednesday for delivery of the inner panel. I ordered it on the 8th, hard to believe that companies can still take this long to dispatch a stock item, even if it is in europe. Maby I'm just to used to amazon prime
Yesterday i ordered a new replacement for this panel just removed, as i kinda mangled the first side i started at, so probably be another 2 1/2 weeks till that arrives.
Obligatory pics....

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