Birchover barrel door
- Thread starter Chris1983
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- hillside leisure
There looks to be scuffing in the centre where the rollers aren’t, so I would say either grit has got between the non rotating bits and the floor or the wheels are worn. The top of my door is lined up with the worktop (as it’s an extension of it) and there is a clear gap between my roller and the floor. It doesn’t touch and would only do so if the door dropped. The door hinges are pretty heavy duty, so I can’t see this happening unless the door was really heavily loaded; certainly not with an empty door.
Clean up what you have and ensure that the wheels are the only contact points and spin freely with no sticking.
If it’s worn then purchase the later roller that I linked to and knock up a mount similar to how Hillside do it, from my photo.
Then put a suitably small single washer on the drop pin of each of the hinges on the fixed cabinet side and drop the door back on.
This will raise the whole door, by the thickness of your selected washer. Choose a washer with an internal diameter just slightly larger than the drop pin of the hinge and an outer diameter that is around the diameter of the outer of the hinge, so it isn’t obvious.
See how it lines up and slide a bit of thin cardboard underneath to check the roller isn’t contacting the floor.
Add more washers if you want more clearance. I think the roller is a back up to stop the door digging into the floor if overloaded, rather than a constant support for the door.
If the door isn’t square to the cabinetry then you can also pack out either of the hinges to push either the top or the bottom out diagonally using some shimming material between the cabinet and the hinge; but I don’t think this is your problem. One step at a time.
Clean up what you have and ensure that the wheels are the only contact points and spin freely with no sticking.
If it’s worn then purchase the later roller that I linked to and knock up a mount similar to how Hillside do it, from my photo.
Then put a suitably small single washer on the drop pin of each of the hinges on the fixed cabinet side and drop the door back on.
This will raise the whole door, by the thickness of your selected washer. Choose a washer with an internal diameter just slightly larger than the drop pin of the hinge and an outer diameter that is around the diameter of the outer of the hinge, so it isn’t obvious.
See how it lines up and slide a bit of thin cardboard underneath to check the roller isn’t contacting the floor.
Add more washers if you want more clearance. I think the roller is a back up to stop the door digging into the floor if overloaded, rather than a constant support for the door.
If the door isn’t square to the cabinetry then you can also pack out either of the hinges to push either the top or the bottom out diagonally using some shimming material between the cabinet and the hinge; but I don’t think this is your problem. One step at a time.
There are scuff all around the base, I'm pretty sure those rollers have warn away so they are basically level now.
I'm not sure of the dimensions/scale of this, but wondering if something like a office chair castor could be substituted? larger dia wheel will not wear anywhere near as fast, much more clearance and they are rated for a lot more load than that one.
I'm not sure of the dimensions/scale of this, but wondering if something like a office chair castor could be substituted? larger dia wheel will not wear anywhere near as fast, much more clearance and they are rated for a lot more load than that one.
Yes it does.
To replicate, like mine. Remove existing plywood.
Then 3 pieces of plywood: 2 sides and one bottom.
Bottom plywood piece drilled and roller fitted into it.
Sides sized to position bottom plywood flat and level with the bottom of the door; so depth of recess minus thickness of bottom. Screw bottom into edges of the sides. Then use a couple of 90degree fixings to hold the sides to the top of the recess.
I may have one of those, will dig out. Depends on if I have correct circumference. I do need another piece of ply to make the @EAN style work
Yes as @JumpShip says a hole saw. Wait till you get the new roller though and then you can measure it to work out what size you need: Really depends upon the size. Use a scrap bit of wood underneath, ideally clamped or screwed as the plywood will tend to delaminate as the hole saw breaks through the under side. Or drill it from both sides, for a neater edge finish.
I’d use 3 pieces of 18mm hardwood ply as it will be thick enough to screw the base into the centre of the side edges for the purpose it’s being put to: Use a small pilot drill, smaller than the diameter of the screws you use so they still get a decent grip with their thread. Make sure to countersink them below the surface. Screwing into the edge of plywood isn’t usually a good idea. Or you could just assemble using furniture blocks to connect the sides to the base as well as to the door. Pick some up while you are at the DIY store, if you don’t already have them and some screws that are shorter than the thickness of what you are screwing into.
(not teaching you to suck eggs, just trying to be helpful)
I’d use 3 pieces of 18mm hardwood ply as it will be thick enough to screw the base into the centre of the side edges for the purpose it’s being put to: Use a small pilot drill, smaller than the diameter of the screws you use so they still get a decent grip with their thread. Make sure to countersink them below the surface. Screwing into the edge of plywood isn’t usually a good idea. Or you could just assemble using furniture blocks to connect the sides to the base as well as to the door. Pick some up while you are at the DIY store, if you don’t already have them and some screws that are shorter than the thickness of what you are screwing into.
(not teaching you to suck eggs, just trying to be helpful)
I’ve seen a few reports of this failure on the Hillside Owners Group FB page over the last couple of years. Unfortunately, many folks seem to leave it until the flooring gets noticeably marked before seeking a solution. As soon as I got my Birchover I covered the habitation area floor with a commercial grade corded carpet my logic being that replacing a carpet would be far easier than having to repair the factory-fitted laminate flooring.
Having seen @Chris1983‘s image of the underside of the barrel door, it looks like there’s enough room and a decent base for a suitable roller. Doing a quick online search something like these 22mm pvc castors might be a solution.
Having seen @Chris1983‘s image of the underside of the barrel door, it looks like there’s enough room and a decent base for a suitable roller. Doing a quick online search something like these 22mm pvc castors might be a solution.
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These castor wheels maybe easiest. That’s the depth from top of recess. Think the link you sent, the rubber swivel (white wheel) at 49mm height may be just right rather than the pvc one at 52mm, that may sit just too proud.
Do you have a link to the carpet you refer to?
It is called ExpoCord and is a high-traffic Polyester needle-punch / needle-felt carpet material used for exhibition stands. I used an off-cut I’ve had hanging around for years. In a former life, I used to do a lot of exhibitions and after the shows we saved the carpet from our exhibition stands (it always seemed too good to throw in a skip) and gave it away to staff who variously used it to floor sheds, car boots, garages, etc. I used it to carpet my garage, the load space of a couple of vans and SUVs, and was always impressed by how well it wore. It’s comes in 4m wide rolls and is around £3.00 per metre. However, as the minimum order is usually 50m it’s probably worth contacting a carpet supplier or exhibition contractor to see if they have any off cuts. Hope that helps.
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