Cerbo GX
- Thread starter The Flying Scotsman
- Start date
Oooh, I've not done anything yet with the relays! I'm hoping you've changed the UI to the prettier one now!
IP21 & IP65 basically. I always spend less to go wading of course!! 
I would always go IP65 for outdoor use. So bought it for the van set up. Also the IP65 has all the cables already attached. Personal choice matey but bit weird the IP65 is cheaper considering I would say its better for outside use.
I would always go IP65 for outdoor use. So bought it for the van set up. Also the IP65 has all the cables already attached. Personal choice matey but bit weird the IP65 is cheaper considering I would say its better for outside use.
Hi I’ve got a brand new victron shunt that I won’t be using now.
PM me mate.
Why wont you be using the victron shunt?
For what its worth my Victron shunt and the Roamer battery monitor app dont agree on state of charge, I emailed them about this and this is the reply I got:
BTW this damn thread just cost me £150
Because apparently this lead is all I need now to connect my roamer battery to the Cerbo.Why wont you be using the victron shunt?
For what its worth my Victron shunt and the Roamer battery monitor app dont agree on state of charge, I emailed them about this and this is the reply I got:
BTW this damn thread just cost me £150
I’m just taking the guys on here advice, spending a fortune and hoping it all works.
I’m easily led when it comes to shiny lighty up things and the boys on here just take full advantage of it.
Roamer CAN cable - SMART4 to Victron GX
A 2 metre cable that connects your Roamer battery to a Victron GX device or inverter. Add this to your cart if you want to use your battery with a Victron Cerbo GX, and monitor your roamer battery on the app, Touch GX screen or VRM online portal.
roamer.com
Yeah it's the same on my Fogstar, the BMS on that can't see anything under 1a so as I have a constant 0.5a draw it's never accurate. The shunt is the way to go.Why wont you be using the victron shunt?
For what its worth my Victron shunt and the Roamer battery monitor app dont agree on state of charge, I emailed them about this and this is the reply I got:
BTW this damn thread just cost me £150
And the new Roamer smart4 batteries communicate direct to the cerbo GX.
That lead does connect the Raomer to the Cerbo, but the shunt is far more accurate. The Batter BMS only Registers currents of over 0.6A. SO in theory, over a long period of time, you could have a flat battery that is displaying 100% SoC on the Roamer App. Thats why Im keeping both.Because apparently this lead is all I need now to connect my roamer battery to the Cerbo.
I’m just taking the guys on here advice, spending a fortune and hoping it all works.
I’m easily led when it comes to shiny lighty up things and the boys on here just take full advantage of it.
Roamer CAN cable - SMART4 to Victron GX
A 2 metre cable that connects your Roamer battery to a Victron GX device or inverter. Add this to your cart if you want to use your battery with a Victron Cerbo GX, and monitor your roamer battery on the app, Touch GX screen or VRM online portal.
Is that the case on the current smart4 batteries? @RoamerBatteries @Dellmassive as I know he has one!
Tbh unless you've got a constant tiny draw of a 4g router or something then it might not be an issue.
Tbh unless you've got a constant tiny draw of a 4g router or something then it might not be an issue.
Thats the battery I have (230Ah Roamer smart4 under seat battery). I also have a constantly drawing router.
A very interesting and informative thread. It has confirmed my suspicions and put my mind at rest regarding the disparity between SOC readouts from the VRM and the Roamer App. Thanks to all contributors. 
I have been a victim of the sudden Roamer App battery drain from 100% to 0% and admit to it having been a cause for concern. Having since fitted the Victron Shunt and reading this thread it confirms the need to use the VRM as the 'true' battery SOC.
I have a constant draw via a router, and I also run the fridge at times. For the majority of the Winter, and little solar input because of parking position in relation to sunshine, the Roamer App has recorded the SOC. The draw on the Roamer has been above the required threshold of 0.6A. Now that the sun has made an appearance and the input feed from solar has increased, I am wondering whether the input from the solar is is reducing the actual discharge from the Roamer to be below the 0.6A? This is just a theory and a bit of a moveable feast in respect of volume of sunshine, but it may possibly account for the sudden change in readout from the Roamer App and therefore difference in SOC percentage between the VRM and the Roamer App?
As advised in this thread I will be reliant upon reading the SOC from the VRM in future and disregarding the percentage shown on the Roamer App.
I have been a victim of the sudden Roamer App battery drain from 100% to 0% and admit to it having been a cause for concern. Having since fitted the Victron Shunt and reading this thread it confirms the need to use the VRM as the 'true' battery SOC.
I have a constant draw via a router, and I also run the fridge at times. For the majority of the Winter, and little solar input because of parking position in relation to sunshine, the Roamer App has recorded the SOC. The draw on the Roamer has been above the required threshold of 0.6A. Now that the sun has made an appearance and the input feed from solar has increased, I am wondering whether the input from the solar is is reducing the actual discharge from the Roamer to be below the 0.6A? This is just a theory and a bit of a moveable feast in respect of volume of sunshine, but it may possibly account for the sudden change in readout from the Roamer App and therefore difference in SOC percentage between the VRM and the Roamer App?
As advised in this thread I will be reliant upon reading the SOC from the VRM in future and disregarding the percentage shown on the Roamer App.
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Just when I thought it was safe to carry my wallet again, it now looks like I need that 300A shunt.
I have a 'small draw' 4g router, 230Ah Roamer and am now concerned about the real remaining values.
Excuse my ignorance, but if the Roamer app is saying 100% SOC, surely it won't let any more charge in, even if you have a shunt saying closer to zero?!
I rarely use the Roamer app, looking at everything on VRM.
Did that make the sense?!
Confusedly yours....
I have a 'small draw' 4g router, 230Ah Roamer and am now concerned about the real remaining values.
Excuse my ignorance, but if the Roamer app is saying 100% SOC, surely it won't let any more charge in, even if you have a shunt saying closer to zero?!
I rarely use the Roamer app, looking at everything on VRM.
Did that make the sense?!
Confusedly yours....
@Drive Wayne
Get the wallet out Wayne... you need the Shunt!
To hopefully answer your question, when I had readings of 100% Roamer App SOC and 92% VRM SOC I jumped in the van and went for a fairly long run to charge up the batteries to 100% using the VRM SOC readout as the guide and ignoring the Roamer App SOC displayed. It made no difference to the Roamer App SOC percentage, but obviously the VRM SOC had increased to 100%. I also at a later stage of testing put the Van on EHU when the disparity was again evident. Same result...
Outcome for me is that I will ignore the Roamer App SOC and count on the VRM, as recommended. In my humble opinion, and I am no authority on this, in my setup I cannot rely on the SOC displayed in the Roamer App to reflect the current and accurate SOC..... In the past I was misled by doing so when the SOC suddenly dropped from 100% to 0%. At that time I had no shunt, hence fitting the Victron Shunt as it records a draw of 0.1A as opposed to the 0.6A by the Roamer.
On my journey of discovery I would like to point out that Roamer were very obliging in sorting out my system, for which I am most grateful. They connected remotely into my system, together with my installer, making any necessary adjustments to align all the different components correctly. It is performing very well now.
Get the wallet out Wayne... you need the Shunt!
To hopefully answer your question, when I had readings of 100% Roamer App SOC and 92% VRM SOC I jumped in the van and went for a fairly long run to charge up the batteries to 100% using the VRM SOC readout as the guide and ignoring the Roamer App SOC displayed. It made no difference to the Roamer App SOC percentage, but obviously the VRM SOC had increased to 100%. I also at a later stage of testing put the Van on EHU when the disparity was again evident. Same result...
Outcome for me is that I will ignore the Roamer App SOC and count on the VRM, as recommended. In my humble opinion, and I am no authority on this, in my setup I cannot rely on the SOC displayed in the Roamer App to reflect the current and accurate SOC..... In the past I was misled by doing so when the SOC suddenly dropped from 100% to 0%. At that time I had no shunt, hence fitting the Victron Shunt as it records a draw of 0.1A as opposed to the 0.6A by the Roamer.
On my journey of discovery I would like to point out that Roamer were very obliging in sorting out my system, for which I am most grateful. They connected remotely into my system, together with my installer, making any necessary adjustments to align all the different components correctly. It is performing very well now.
Bum and spit. Out with the wallet it is... upsetting, but as you say it sounds necessary.@Drive Wayne
Get the wallet out Wayne... you need the Shunt!
To hopefully answer your question, when I had readings of 100% Roamer App SOC and 92% VRM SOC I jumped in the van and went for a fairly long run to charge up the batteries to 100% using the VRM SOC readout as the guide and ignoring the Roamer App SOC displayed. It made no difference to the Roamer App SOC percentage, but obviously the VRM SOC had increased to 100%. I also at a later stage of testing put the Van on EHU when the disparity was again evident. Same result...
Outcome for me is that I will ignore the Roamer App SOC and count on the VRM, as recommended. In my humble opinion, and I am no authority on this, in my setup I cannot rely on the SOC displayed in the Roamer App to reflect the current and accurate SOC..... In the past I was misled by doing so when the SOC suddenly dropped from 100% to 0%. At that time I had no shunt, hence fitting the Victron Shunt as it records a draw of 0.1A as opposed to the 0.6A by the Roamer.
On my journey of discovery I would like to point out that Roamer were very obliging in sorting out my system, for which I am most grateful. They connected remotely into my system, together with my installer, making any necessary adjustments to align all the different components correctly. It is performing very well now.
I would so love a comment from @RoamerBatteries on this as I'm sure a few of us may!
Well after reading the above it’s apparent that I’m better keeping my shunt.
I had sold it to T6Chris but have refunded him and apologised for mucking him about.
Having my battery tell me it’s at 100% when it’s at 0% is not an option.
Today I’m going to start actually trying to fit all this gear in my van.
I had sold it to T6Chris but have refunded him and apologised for mucking him about.
Having my battery tell me it’s at 100% when it’s at 0% is not an option.
Today I’m going to start actually trying to fit all this gear in my van.
Incidentally or indecently even, the state of health of my Roamer 230AH S4 when installed new was and still is 97%. Should I be happy with that?
I know how you feel...and a third VE cable. I really hope I dont need to buy anything else now
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