We have the Smartbed Evo rail system and love the flexibility. We bought it so that our children would be much nearer us while driving (passing snacks, charging cables etc). This also means that all our luggage/camping gear is in the boot which feels like it’s a bit safer.

We had our converter build a custom drawer which really enhances the storage space. It was installed by Custom Camper Solutions in Market Harborough.

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View attachment 274653

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That looks awesome. I love the look of it and especially that sliding drawer looks brilliant.

How does it work with the draw? getting to the two locking handles? that you need to unlock to be able to slide the bed forward and backwards do you just open the drawer a bit and then reach in?

Also the wife keeps bugging me to ask you about the rails?

she's worried about about them being sticking up on top of the floor .

do you find them a problem i.e trip over them? or that they get in the way or they sore under feat or do you just throw a Matt down on the floor?
 
That looks awesome. I love the look of it and especially that sliding drawer looks brilliant.

How does it work with the draw? getting to the two locking handles? that you need to unlock to be able to slide the bed forward and backwards do you just open the drawer a bit and then reach in?

Also the wife keeps bugging me to ask you about the rails?

she's worried about about them being sticking up on top of the floor .

do you find them a problem i.e trip over them? or that they get in the way or they sore under feat or do you just throw a Matt down on the floor?
Also what width bed is it?
 
That looks awesome. I love the look of it and especially that sliding drawer looks brilliant.

How does it work with the draw? getting to the two locking handles? that you need to unlock to be able to slide the bed forward and backwards do you just open the drawer a bit and then reach in?

Also the wife keeps bugging me to ask you about the rails?

she's worried about about them being sticking up on top of the floor .

do you find them a problem i.e trip over them? or that they get in the way or they sore under feat or do you just throw a Matt down on the floor?
Getting to the handles is no problem at all even when the drawer is full of the kids clothes. The rails present no problems at all under foot. We don’t even notice them anymore.

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After much debate about whether to get rails or not, I ultimately chose the RIB bed in a fixed position and I’ve never regretted it. Since having it, I’ve never really felt the need to move it, and I’ve also used the van to carry some large items. The back third of the bed, acting as a “parcel shelf”,has been incredibly useful while traveling. It’s amazing how much stuff you can fit securely under it and above it, with heavier items stored below to prevent them from moving around. On top of that, the storage space under the main seat is fantastic far more than you’d get with a drawer.

If you’re using the van to carry items rather than as a camper, you can fold the bed down to create more space. With proper padding in the van, I’ve managed to carry full-sized sheets of plywood and MDF. Additionally, if you fit doors at the front and back of the seats, you can transport items the full length of the van. On one occasion, I brought home 2.5-meter cast iron washing poles from an antiques yard in the Cotswolds (much to my wife’s initial frustration, as it was a spur-of-the-moment purchase on the last day of our holiday!). That trip really highlighted the van’s versatility.

I had the same concerns as your wife about rails when we got the van, especially with a 2- and 4-year-old at the time. I worried about little toes being stubbed or caught in the gaps. Looking back, I haven’t regretted not getting the rails, but it was a big worry during the decision-making process.

If you’re considering a RIB bed, my advice would be to see one in person. You’ll be amazed at the storage options around it. Plus, the flat sleeping surface is much more comfortable than an RNR bed.
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Well after a mass debate and looking over a RIB setup yesterday on a friend's van.

I think I've been talked out of the RNR bed and into the RIB style,,, but still with rails.

The setup they had I'm assuming they have 40cm cabinetry as the kitchen units are flush with the fridge. So implying a 112cm 3/4 wide bed.

The wife live the look.

But I'm thinking of we had a 120cm bed then the kitchen would need to be 30cm, meaning of we had a standard fridge or would stick out as a bump.?

An we are still looking at the rails.
 
In our experience, a 120 bed is snug for... how can I phrase this?... two "full-sized" adults :whistle: - snug, but doable. I'd deffo not be wanting to go any narrower..
 
In our experience, a 120 bed is snug for... how can I phrase this?... two "full-sized" adults :whistle: - snug, but doable. I'd deffo not be wanting to go any narrower..
This is what I'm worried about.... Both me and the missus are chunky monkeys... Then with the mid size dog Charlie the springer who loves a bed invasion around 3am.... I'm thinking a 120cm width bed might be a must.

Which will sacrifice some cabinetry volume.

I'm not sure what to suggest about the fridge situation..... She likes the flush look along a 40cm kitchen..... And with the 30cm kitchen the fridge does pop out a bit - that don't bother me. And I think it will be a sacrifice the missus will have to accept.

Or look at an alternative fridge solution.

We've also decided that....

Although we both agree that we don't want to cook in the van, ie have the gas cooker inside.... We do want a sink and possibly a microwave.... But don't want a underslung water tank. Just the fresh and grey water bottle under the sink with a small 12v pump.
 
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This is what I'm worried about.... Both me and the missus are chunky monkeys... Then with the mid size dog Charlie the springer who loves a bed invasion around 3am.... I'm thinking a 120cm width bed might be a must.

Which will sacrifice some cabinetry volume.

I'm not sure what to suggest about the fridge situation..... She likes the flush look along a 40cm kitchen..... And with the 30cm kitchen the fridge does pop out a bit - that don't bother me. And I think it will be a sacrifice the missus will have to accept.

Or look at an alternative fridge solution.

We've also decided that....

Although we both agree that we don't want to cook in the van, ie have the gas cooker inside.... We do want a sink and possibly a microwave.... But don't want a underslung water tank. Just the fresh and grey water bottle under the sink with a small 12v pump.
could you put the fridge right behind the driver seat?
yes it means could cant slide the bed right the way forward but most of the time its likely to be back abit anyway?
 
This is what I'm worried about.... Both me and the missus are chunky monkeys... Then with the mid size dog Charlie the springer who loves a bed invasion around 3am.... I'm thinking a 120cm width bed might be a must.

Which will sacrifice some cabinetry volume.

I'm not sure what to suggest about the fridge situation..... She likes the flush look along a 40cm kitchen..... And with the 30cm kitchen the fridge does pop out a bit - that don't bother me. And I think it will be a sacrifice the missus will have to accept.

Or look at an alternative fridge solution.

We've also decided that....

Although we both agree that we don't want to cook in the van, ie have the gas cooker inside.... We do want a sink and possibly a microwave.... But don't want a underslung water tank. Just the fresh and grey water bottle under the sink with a small 12v pump.
IMO a grey water tank is a waste of valuable storage space. We usually let the water drain into a collapsible bucket/bowl (or, if appropriate, straight onto the ground). Having said that, we don't have a sink as such - just a drain for the boiling-water tap - so our water wastage is minimal.
 
This is what I'm worried about.... Both me and the missus are chunky monkeys... Then with the mid size dog Charlie the springer who loves a bed invasion around 3am.... I'm thinking a 120cm width bed might be a must.

Which will sacrifice some cabinetry volume.

I'm not sure what to suggest about the fridge situation..... She likes the flush look along a 40cm kitchen..... And with the 30cm kitchen the fridge does pop out a bit - that don't bother me. And I think it will be a sacrifice the missus will have to accept.

Or look at an alternative fridge solution.

We've also decided that....

Although we both agree that we don't want to cook in the van, ie have the gas cooker inside.... We do want a sink and possibly a microwave.... But don't want a underslung water tank. Just the fresh and grey water bottle under the sink with a small 12v pump.


I’d suggest borrowing, hiring, or finding a van with a 112cm setup to test it out and see how you get on. As you’ve mentioned, compromises will need to be made between bed space and storage. If you find that 112cm works for you after a trial, then it seems like you’ve got your preferred layout figured out. If not, you’ll likely need to accept the fridge jutting out or adjust the layout further.

For the microwave, remember to account for the handle and the circulation space required behind it. I have a 112cm setup (as shown in my image), and I’m not sure I could go up to 120cm without the bed interfering with the microwave. As it stands, the bed is already brushing against the microwave when folded down.
 
What I will say about our Smartbed Evo is that it's very comfortable which, to me anyway, is the most important thing ng about a bed - we add a cheap topper bought from Amazon for a bit of extra padding (but not too much as neither of us are fans of an over soft mattress):
and a thinDuvalay.
Ours is a 112 cm (with 40((ish)cm furniture.and it's snug but OK once we have made the adjustment from the Super King that we have at home,
When we bought our van, the bloke that we got out from showed me around his own van and I was really impressed with the rail system that he had fitted (also Smart Beds). It would have a very nice to have (and one that I'd never thought of before) but wasn't to be as it would have meant another lump of money that I wasn't prepared to spend at the time.
 
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Taking the bus to "Planar Pete" in camberly Surrey.

A FB mobile guy recommended on here, that I've been keeping an eye on for years.

He's now got a proper unit.

He does tons of autoterm heaters in tons of T6s, he's got a T6.1 himself now by the looks of things.


...
View attachment 272392


...
all fitted and tested - very nice,


Today was this lovely 2017 VWT6
•External mount in the factory location
•Retro fit so it looks like factory!
•Comfort Controller mounted on the drivers b pilar
•Modem to control the heater via your phone
•Silent fuel pump
•Heaters fuel feed taken from the vehicles fuel tank
•Drivers side lower cover that helps protect heater installs as the one was hold, cracked and broken
•3 years heater warranty
Planar Pete installed, the heat is on!


1739879098622.png1739879108253.png1739879117586.png1739879129108.png1739879139581.png1739879148592.png



we also needed a new under tray - as the existing one was smashed. - a common issues apparently.

luckily he had one in stock and fitted for parts only charge.


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++++


very happy with the quality of workmanship and install quality.

Pete is a Diesel heater fitter machine - no messing around.

i recon he could fit one on a T6 with a blindfold on.

100% @Dellmassive recommended.


I've given him the heads up about joing T6F as a trade member,

in the meantime heres his details . . just say @Dellmassive from T6Forum sent you. - :mexican wave:

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Pete -07593 245553

Planar Pete is in Camberley, Surrey.​




1739879610127.png


++++

1739879129288.png
 
A friend has just had an autoterm heater fitted, the fitter insisted on wiring direct to the leisure battery by passing the victron shunt despite being asked to wire either to the negative busbar or to the fuse box. Apparently this was to comply with the guarantee - complete bulls**** if you ask me. I've moved the connections - how did Pete wire yours?
 
all fitted and tested - very nice,


Today was this lovely 2017 VWT6
•External mount in the factory location
•Retro fit so it looks like factory!
•Comfort Controller mounted on the drivers b pilar
•Modem to control the heater via your phone
•Silent fuel pump
•Heaters fuel feed taken from the vehicles fuel tank
•Drivers side lower cover that helps protect heater installs as the one was hold, cracked and broken
•3 years heater warranty
Planar Pete installed, the heat is on!


View attachment 275029View attachment 275030View attachment 275031View attachment 275032View attachment 275034View attachment 275035



we also needed a new under tray - as the existing one was smashed. - a common issues apparently.

luckily he had one in stock and fitted for parts only charge.


View attachment 275036


View attachment 275037


++++


very happy with the quality of workmanship and install quality.

Pete is a Diesel heater fitter machine - no messing around.

i recon he could fit one on a T6 with a blindfold on.

100% @Dellmassive recommended.


I've given him the heads up about joing T6F as a trade member,

in the meantime heres his details . . just say @Dellmassive from T6Forum sent you. - :mexican wave:

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Pete -07593 245553

Planar Pete is in Camberley, Surrey.​




View attachment 275038


++++

View attachment 275033
He would have been where I'd get a heater fitted if I'd not found a van with one as a factory option.
 
A friend has just had an autoterm heater fitted, the fitter insisted on wiring direct to the leisure battery by passing the victron shunt despite being asked to wire either to the negative busbar or to the fuse box. Apparently this was to comply with the guarantee - complete bulls**** if you ask me. I've moved the connections - how did Pete wire yours?
TBF he fitted the ring terminals direct to the battery in the seatbase, the loom comes with two fuses, one on POS and one on NEG. in a holder.

He screwed the fuse holder to the front of the seat base.

no issue with the shunt on this van as im using a GEN4 Roamer battery + Victron Cerbo that uses the batterys internal shunt.

i did mention the MIDI fuse box and the ATC sub fuse box . . . . but same as you he said he would prefer to fit "as advised" by Autoterm - direct to battery.

i suppose it makes sense as a battery connection is a known good - where as a vans 3rd party leisure electrics are an unknown.

im sure they may have had loads of issues with owners poor electrics in some vans.

++

no probs though, i thought id leave it a few weeks as a test. . . then move the wires and fuses over to my LB setup.

ill probably cut the fuses and ring terminals off, then connect the NEG to the NEG Busbar, the the POS to either the MIDI fuse block, or the ATC sub fuse block.



1739886946431.png
 
i suppose it makes sense as a battery connection is a known good - where as a vans 3rd party leisure electrics are an unknown.
I'd think it's this, it'd save loads of after sales issues where the heater isn't working when it's down to dodgy wiring and voltage drops etc.

And anyone who does have a properly built and designed electrics set up (rather than a converter installed bare essentials one) won't have an issue moving the wiring over themselves!
 
Testing the Heater in the van - Loved it.

it makes such a difference when its cold and wet outside.



.

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monitoring the Temps on the Shelly APP. . . a BT temp sensor stuck on the wall.

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and the Victron VRM - a RUUVI temp sensor stuck to the LB.

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.
 
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