Fuel Filter replacement

The actual replacement of the filter is straight forward;

A band secures the filter using a 10mm bolt, then there's two torx 20 screws to remove that hold the coolant bottle onto the crash bar.

Once the coolant bottle is moved to the side, its a case of removing the pipes and lifting the filter out.

Then the should be a small locating bit on the bottom of the filter so it locates in the housing correctly, then refit everything in reverse order.

The only issue for a home diy-er, is the bleeding process, vcds will be able to carry out a fuel system bleed if you have it. Carista may do it too, but I have no experience with Carista.
Another way around it is to fill the new filter with an injector cleaner, or diesel instead of a bleed.
 
When I was watching the youtube vid the presenter drained the old filter of diesel for disposal. I thought why not use that to prime the new filter? Second thought that diesel might be from the dirty side of the filter!!
 
Just been reading the “new engine“ thread, and realised that I don’t know where the fuel filter(s) is/are on our vans.
Can anyone point me in the right direction of the relevant information please.

Is it an easy swap ?

Pete
When I changed mine, I just opened and closed the drivers door & cycled the ignition several times to prime the filter - worked without hesitation.
 
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Dose any one have any tips on changing fuel filter on t6 2016 140 do people go for genuine or Bosch and what oil do people run thanks kirk
 
Hi all,

What’s the service interval on the fuel filter? I’m guessing not as frequent as an oil change?

Cheers
 
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What’s the service interval on the fuel filter?
Fuel filter: Renew – if vehicle runs on diesel fuel: Conforming to “DIN EN 590" - Every 120,000 km or 6 years

Source - p. 15:
 
Fuel filter: Renew – if vehicle runs on diesel fuel: Conforming to “DIN EN 590" - Every 120,000 km or 6 years

Source - p. 15:
Thanks!! Very good to know.
 
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Finally got round to changing the fuel filter today. My van has 115k miles and it should have been done at 75k. I have no record that the previous owner did it, so it joins the list of maintenance jobs for which I have no records.

@Phil_j89’s instructions were helpful. It was actually really hard to get around my coolant reservoir, but the rest was easy.

As @Loz says, cheap from VW. Less than £35 from TPS today.

As @Ads_Essex says, opening and closing the drivers door, and turning the key in the ignition, seems to get the filter primed. I had two false starts before the engine fired up.

I emptied the old filter, finding about a litre of diesel in there. With current prices, thought I wouldn’t waste it but there was some debris in the diesel so I opted not to return it to the tank.

Thanks for your guidance all. Actually a pretty easy job and one step further towards total piece of mind with my van servicing.
 
"I emptied the old filter, finding about a litre of diesel in there. With current prices, thought I wouldn’t waste it but there was some debris in the diesel so I opted not to return it to the tank."


Old trick for filtering diesel - filter it through a chamois leather.
 
Old trick for filtering diesel - filter it through a chamois leather.
Nice idea.

In the end it was perfect… moved on to my next job, fixing a leaky intercooler hose on my Mk5 golf. I forgot to wear gloves and also forgot that I’m out of swarfega.

Stood there, staring at my oil stained hands trying to figure out how I would clean up in order to eat my dinner.

Not the nicest on the skin, but the diesel came in handy!
 
Washing up liquid and soap powder together for oily hands, the soap powder adds roughness to get into all the crevices of the skin and then helps remove the oil when rinsing off. If you have tender pen-pusher hands though it may be a bit harsh.
 
Washing up liquid and soap powder together for oily hands, the soap powder adds roughness to get into all the crevices of the skin and then helps remove the oil when rinsing off. If you have tender pen-pusher hands though it may be a bit harsh.
A handful of sugar works, too.
 
Just to make it a bit simpler for those wanting to change the filter. You don't need to download any insstructions to do the job. It's pretty simple:
1. Remove 2 screws holding water expansion tank
2. remove divider that protects the battery
3. loosen the two screws holding the fuel filter bracket 13mm spanner
4. unscrew the filter clamp (10mm)
5. push on the side of the tube connectors to release
6. carefully drag the filter out moving the expansion tank out of the way a little.

to prime 2 ways:
Either use large suringe to fill the new filter with diesel
or
Use the software to prime. VCDS/ODIS has 3 ways how to do it. go to the Engine section and you will figure it out in the General settings.

The old "turn key xx times" trick does not work on T6.

Had to figure it all out myself last weekend. VCDS didn't work for some reason but ODIS was fine. Just didn't want to mess with the suringes/funnels.

VW uses in their original filter KNECHT KL 229/5 (CXFA engine). Cheaper to buy it under Knecht/Mahle rather than original.

And in case you're interested, here's the insides of a filter after 220 000 km.

whi_8ITHykVsajTKlXjK9Z1bsnY-1920.jpg
 
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Just to make it a bit simpler for those wanting to change the filter. You don't need to download any insstructions to do the job. It's pretty simple:
1. Remove 2 screws holding water expansion tank
2. remove divider that protects the battery
3. loosen the two screws holding the fuel filter bracket 13mm spanner
4. unscrew the filter clamp (10mm)
5. push on the side of the tube connectors to release
6. carefully drag the filter out moving the expansion tank out of the way a little.

to prime 2 ways:
Either use large suringe to fill the new filter with diesel
or
Use the software to prime. VCDS/ODIS has 3 ways how to do it. go to the Engine section and you will figure it out in the General settings.

The old "turn key xx times" trick does not work on T6.

Had to figure it all out myself last weekend. VCDS didn't work for some reason but ODIS was fine. Just didn't want to mess with the suringes/funnels.

VW uses in their original filter KNECHT KL 229/5. Cheaper to buy it under Knecht/Mahle rather than original.

And in case you're interested, here's the insides of a filter after 220 000 km.

View attachment 206992
Useful summary!

Yea, I now know that Carista will also prime the fuel filter, but for me, I was able to get the van to prime the filter without any software or syringes.

Coincidentally, just did the fuel filter on my mark 5 Golf today. It was even easier! And less wasteful. Housing stays as is, new filter goes in. No tight fit, nothing else to work around. Five torx bolts off and back on, two new rubber washers, and you’re on your way. Stays full of diesel and appears to require no priming. Started up immediately without a hiccup.
 
Yea, I now know that Carista will also prime the fuel filter, but for me, I was able to get the van to prime the filter without any software or syringes.
Risky business I'd say. Or more of a roulette unless you're absolutely sure it was primed fully. Air can mess up the diesel injection system pretty badly. Cost of repairs is above anything reasonable.
Happy it went well for you but for anyone reading this thread - I don't recommend anything but the software or at least physical refill (with NEW diesel).
 
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