Is a gasless LWB transporter with induction hobs, capable of being off-grid 5-6 days (running normal low wattage stuff plus appliances like hair dryer, toaster etc in the mornings with 250W solar on roof & 1+2 seating upfront) a task which is possible without a huge loss of storage space? e.g. seatbase battery under driver's seat & inverter etc in front bench? I've seen the threads on here - seems to me is possible but the converters don't seem overly enthusiastic. I appreciate usage & sunlight are 2 huge variables but goal is to be able to live unplugged for a week or so with careful use of appliances etc. Doesn't seem to me that Clayton fits the bill. Also has anyone successfully rigged up a system whereby a portable power station (like Anker Solix etc) can be plugged into the roof's solar panels (rather than having to fork out for the Anker ones) as & when desired? Thanks
Gasless LWB Transporter & power set-up
- Thread starter Billy92
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It's possible with available tech (and some folks around here have done it) but it's a bit specialist so I think I'm right in saying it's only been done by commited self build enthusiasts not converters.
While possible it is going to hit your wallet hard and your storage space. Do the numbers for your heating and cooking and you'll realise very quickly just how much energy those use that you don't really see when on the grid, and that turns into significant amounts of battery capacity.
I think you'd be lucky to reliably make a week with everything being driven by battery - though more likely in the sunny months especially if you can deploy something like a folding 200w solar panel in addition to a fixed one.
Not being funny but you certainly won't if you are not forking out for decent panels - you'll have a high demand and a small roof so you want decent stuff up there - even if the Anker branded ones are not the right ones.
As for the portable power packs they are probably better charged from additional panels (if you want to boost your solar on suitable days) or topped up via a hard wire feed into the solar charger from your leisure battery (if you want to use excess solar from the fixed panels). Chopping and changing the wiring for the fixed panels isn't ideal for the wear on the connectors or the confusion on the MPPT chargers. If you use the Victron MPPT chargers a potential neat way of dealing with this is to have the power pack charger from the load terminals and configure those to turn on when there is excess solar.
While possible it is going to hit your wallet hard and your storage space. Do the numbers for your heating and cooking and you'll realise very quickly just how much energy those use that you don't really see when on the grid, and that turns into significant amounts of battery capacity.
I think you'd be lucky to reliably make a week with everything being driven by battery - though more likely in the sunny months especially if you can deploy something like a folding 200w solar panel in addition to a fixed one.
Not being funny but you certainly won't if you are not forking out for decent panels - you'll have a high demand and a small roof so you want decent stuff up there - even if the Anker branded ones are not the right ones.
As for the portable power packs they are probably better charged from additional panels (if you want to boost your solar on suitable days) or topped up via a hard wire feed into the solar charger from your leisure battery (if you want to use excess solar from the fixed panels). Chopping and changing the wiring for the fixed panels isn't ideal for the wear on the connectors or the confusion on the MPPT chargers. If you use the Victron MPPT chargers a potential neat way of dealing with this is to have the power pack charger from the load terminals and configure those to turn on when there is excess solar.
Thanks that is very helpful. I am not keen at all on loss of storage space. Hence question as to installation of seatbase battery under driver's seat. I thought use of the solar panels to charge portable power stations might be a common ask of converters but it doesn't sound like it is. Are there any roof panels which are generally considered best in class? Thanks again.
I can manage just 3 days off grid comfortably, running fridge, lights, charging phones and using only electric for cooking all meals (all mains sub 1000w hob, remoska and kettle): that's with a 230Ah seat base battery and 200w of portable panel deployed thru a REDARC MPPT: That was during this Summer in the UK, which was a bit cloudy, but that's the problem you can't guarantee the weather. To be comfortable with an all electric setup for a week, I would want at least double the capacity of battery together with the solar; but then you are looking at a different mounting location to the seat base.
Thanks a lot. I would really want the battery under the seat so it sounds like I need to ratchet back my expectations as to how long could realistically last off-grid. Though below = 280 as opposed to 230 so gives you a bit more (at a price). Is it more difficult to put the seatbase battery under driver’s seat (as opposed to passenger seat)?
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12v 280ah Seatbase lithium battery – LithiumPro Energy
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Ok understood yes that makes sense. Been told can't have Seatbase battery unless convert existing front 2 person bench to a captain's chair. Maybe because driver's seat earmarked for heater. Though I'm not clear on why a single person swivel seat is better for installation of a battery than a 2 person swivel......
two person swivel - full base turns
Captains chair swivel - just the top section turns
Anything is possible if you’re prepared to spend the money & sacrifice some space. As in all things, there’ll be some sort of compromise along the way. Producing meaningful heat from 12V is a big ask & requires lots of lithium/solar/cable. Gas is a much easier/cheaper/arguably safer option.
This is where the VanKraft unit (fixed double base with swivel seat on top) comes into its own - plenty of room under that for batteries/wiring.
Adds another cost though.
@Billy92 are you wanting to be off-grid in one place for all that time or are you driving each day or every couple of days? If you are driving a 50A DC-DC would provide a good top up and make your requirements something achievable with a 230ah seat base battery plus the solar. Best way is to do a full power audit to see what your power needs are and what your charging capabilities need to be. Nohma.com has some good info for this.
We have 2x110Ah LiFePO4 batteries, 300W fixed solar, a 3kW inverter and a 30A DC-DC charger and we run a fridge, LED lights, mobile charges, a boiling water tap, an induction hob, a toaster and, occasionally, an air fryer. During summer, if it's sunny or we drive every couple of days, we could stay off-grid more or less indefinitely. In the winter (with shorter days) or if the weather's rubbish and we don't drive the van, that drops to 3 days at best.
Never seen one & the laws of physics would probably mean we won't. Alibaba have a horrible looking monstrosity but it's only 400W which sort of negates the advantages of induction in the first place. Our gas hob in the van has 2 rings, a 3kW and a 2.5kW. A run of the mill 1800W portable induction ring pulls around 8A on 240V, that would be closer to 150A on 12V, "We're going to need a bigger plug......
"Thanks a lot I will do this. Likelihood will be stationary for 5 days or so. But if necessary could drive to top up but just a pain & you may lose your spot (sports event - 100s of people & vans etc). Presumably with a Clayton powering everything am not going to last more than a couple of days. Could take separate gas hob (for emergency) + power station which all the ancillaries can charge off but I guess just more stuff to cram in & kind of defeats the point.
I'm guessing the hairdryer was added to the wishlist by a certain long-haired stakeholder?
As the project manager, you need to de-scope that requirement as the heavy draw will severely curtail any off-grid ambitions.
5+ days with some high power consumers and only solar charging will need a very beefy battery (whether a Clayton or standalone lifepo4). A power audit will help you understand the scale of the problem and explore options (ban the hairdryer?!). As a guide I find I can run almost indefinitely (maybe not with snow on the roof!) with 105ah lifepo4 and 200w solar for just 12v consumers such as fridge, led lights, usb charging, diesel heater etc. I use about 10% overnight which the solar tops up even on a rainy, overcast day.
Beefy batteries are great, but they take a lot of charging once depleted. A 230Ah battery will need a 4-5 hour run to charge up from flat, assuming no solar input whilst parked up and a 50A B2B charger. As ever, there’s always a compromise lurking somewhere. A battery is no different to a fuel tank, a biggun will get you further, but will take more filling once empty.
Yep, exactly, but the use case here seems to be going as far as possible on a single fill up (plus whatever solar is added) with the top up to full happening on the way home and at home afterwards. Without any driving then either the solar needs boosting, the battery needs more capacity or the usage needs reducing. Or run the engine for ages whilst stationary in the campsite which is very antisocial (like the plonker next to me last weekend!).
Great summary thanks!
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