I think he's swapped out the cheap £60 LION battery for a £180 YUASA battery. (Starter battery?)
At that price it must be a decent AGM.... I'd assume anyway.
At that price it must be a decent AGM.... I'd assume anyway.
[Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
apologies for confusing.
this is the starter battery that replaced the non stop start one.
YBX9115 - Automotive View All - Batteries
<ul> <li>Up to 360,000 engine starts</li> <li>Designed & engineered for vehicles with advanced technology such as Start - Stop, regenerative braking & energy recovery</li> <li>Reduced fuel consumption & lower emissions</li> <li>Maximum saf
www.yuasa.co.uk
as far as i can tell, it ticks the big enough box and the AGM box.
leisure battery is 110aH so big enough to handle the current a DC-DC will throw at it.
im going to move onto sourcing the right DC-DC but going to use this as an opportunity to sort the electrics out and maybe add a few more usb for the kids devices. appreciate the input so far, thanks.
Hi,
I fly drones for work so we have high power usage.
Just getting round to transplanting my monster leisure setup from my old pathfinder truck.
It has 3x 120ah AGM batteries & a 2000w inverter.
dc-dc charger is the ctek 250se coupled with the ctek 120 smart pass for fast charging.
Question is what should I do about the factory leisure battery?
I have no idea how old it is so don't want it in the same circuit as my 3x other batteries.
Should I leave it charging via the crappy split relay & just run my extra thick wires to the main battery for the 3x leisure batteries?
I fly drones for work so we have high power usage.
Just getting round to transplanting my monster leisure setup from my old pathfinder truck.
It has 3x 120ah AGM batteries & a 2000w inverter.
dc-dc charger is the ctek 250se coupled with the ctek 120 smart pass for fast charging.
Question is what should I do about the factory leisure battery?
I have no idea how old it is so don't want it in the same circuit as my 3x other batteries.
Should I leave it charging via the crappy split relay & just run my extra thick wires to the main battery for the 3x leisure batteries?
Does the Renogy charge the starter battery at any point? If it does, I'd put another fuse close to the Renogy to protect against shorts towards the starter battery. (mind you, that's was assuming the fuse shown was close to the starter. If the factory wiring isn't connected when the ignition is turned off then there's no point)
I have a similar setup, but with the battery and shunt under the passenger seat and the inverter on its own under the driver's seat instead of the passenger seat.
I have a fuse between the battery and the busbar, but none in the feed to the inverter, figure the battery fuse would suffice for such a short run that is under the floor.
I have a similar setup, but with the battery and shunt under the passenger seat and the inverter on its own under the driver's seat instead of the passenger seat.
I have a fuse between the battery and the busbar, but none in the feed to the inverter, figure the battery fuse would suffice for such a short run that is under the floor.
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looks good . . . . but.
id remove the ground link and just use chassis ground in both seat bases.
id add a second main fuse next to the battery, or move the inverter fuse over.
id fit a master battery on/off switch next to the battery.
id fuse ANY connection to the battery, included the shunt supply
id make sure the original feed from the starter is fused. (should have 100A if oem)
id set the main powers and ground to the same AWG, so if using 1awg for the POS, then use 1AWG for NEG, not 6 or 4 AWG (keep main powers same size)
FYI:
The Renogy DCC30/50S with MPPT - does charge the starter, but only a trickle charge 25A bursts MAX,
and only from solar,
and only when the LB is full.
+++
The Renogy guide calls for 6 or 4 awg depending on distance...
So that's ok.
The main thing is you big power item.... The inverter. So as long as the inverter power feeds are large enough..... Your diag shows 1awg from battery to inverter to busbar to ground all same thickness.....so should be ok.
Thanks! I can get started on this tomorrow now
Personally I would follow the manufactures advice for fitting the smart shunt (£120). Otherwise how can you guarantee the readings are correct. They always have all the loads on bus bar then to one earth point. Both plans posted above may work.
If you don’t want the shunt then send it back and grab a bog standard battery volt meter which attaches to the battery positive & negative. £25
Hope that helps.
Installing A Battery Monitor - Marine How To
Battery Monitor Diagram This article features the older Victron BMV-602. The 602 has been replaced by the BMV-7oo series. Everything in this article is still relevant to the current series of BMV monitors. Purchasing recommended products from our affiliate partners.Helps keep content coming...
marinehowto.com
If you don’t want the shunt then send it back and grab a bog standard battery volt meter which attaches to the battery positive & negative. £25
Hope that helps.
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That's incorrect information.
The body ground is preferred ground return as it's lower resistance.
The shunt will meter all current in and out of the battery with a body ground.
The victron diagram is figurative.
Voltmeters can't be used on lithium Batterys as an indication of state of charge as the voltage stays constant for 90% of the capacity.Personally I would follow the manufactures advice for fitting the smart shunt (£120). Otherwise how can you guarantee the readings are correct. They always have all the loads on bus bar then to one earth point. Both plans posted above may work.
Installing A Battery Monitor - Marine How To
Battery Monitor Diagram This article features the older Victron BMV-602. The 602 has been replaced by the BMV-7oo series. Everything in this article is still relevant to the current series of BMV monitors. Purchasing recommended products from our affiliate partners.Helps keep content coming...marinehowto.com
If you don’t want the shunt then send it back and grab a bog standard battery volt meter which attaches to the battery positive & negative. £25
Hope that helps.
View attachment 144929
View attachment 144898
The diagram you show above relates to a marine installation that uses a wooden or fibreglass hull.....in a boat that has no ground chassis they use the shunt or ground busbar.
In a van istall you use the chassis as ground.
The T6 already has a shunt on the Starter battery from factory..... And it meters all power in the van from numerous ground points around the van.
- NEW VERSION -
Renogy combined unit (all in one) 50A DC-DC & Solar MPPT & Starter trickle charge from solar
they do a 30A version too.
uk.renogy.com
Renogy combined unit (all in one) 50A DC-DC & Solar MPPT & Starter trickle charge from solar
they do a 30A version too.
DCC50S 12V 50A DC-DC ON-BOARD BATTERY CHARGER WITH MPPT(NEW VERSION)
DCC50S 12V 50A DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger with MPPT(New Version)
Renogy DCC50S 12V 50A DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger with MPPT, featuring enhanced heat dissipation, 50V input capacity, versatile DIY connections, optimized charging logic, and smart monitoring via the DC Home app.
uk.renogy.com
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DCC50S 12V 50A DC-DC ON-BOARD BATTERY CHARGER WITH MPPT(NEW VERSION)
Is it not better to have separate dcdc and mppt in case one fails …??
maybe,
some people may have that opinion.
but if your limited for space then a combined unit can be an option.
separates . . . combined . . . . either way - i own and run both setups.
not had a combined unit fail yet.
but for a Combined unit with the monitoring & APP the Renogy DC50S will take some beating.
its my current prefered DC-DC that im running now. ( due to the fact that i can set the current limit so i done cook my install as it needs beefing up to be able to handle the full 50A it will deliver and the Lithium battery will take)
+++++++++++++++++++++
current setup is:
Renogy DC50s DC-DC + MPPT ( no solar connected ) + BT-2
Renogy 100ah Lipo4 + BT-2
Renogy 1000w inverter.
Victron BMV712 monitor
+++++++++++
FWIW . . .
Even though i run these combined units. . . .
i still just run Victron MPPT side by side. . . . . options.
Is there a danger the Roamer will cook things …
Hi any tips / advice for my circuit?
- 4x agm batteries
- 1500w inverter
- Victron bluetooth energy shunt
- ctek 250se
- ctek 120 smartpass
All the cables are 70mm (475amps) except the below.
At the moment Im using the factory leisure battery feed cable (110amp cable) into the ctek (20amps)
I cut off the input to the factory split replay and fed into the ctek via a 30amp fuse.
This cable is fused with 30amp fuses at starter battery & ctek end.
In the future I will feed my 70mm cable in from the engine bay to the passenger seat & that will be fused at 300amps both end.
When I do that I will add in the ctek 120 smartpass so total up to 140amps from both cteks.
- One question do I now need to remove the coding for the factory leisure battery system?
Cheers
- 4x agm batteries
- 1500w inverter
- Victron bluetooth energy shunt
- ctek 250se
- ctek 120 smartpass
All the cables are 70mm (475amps) except the below.
At the moment Im using the factory leisure battery feed cable (110amp cable) into the ctek (20amps)
I cut off the input to the factory split replay and fed into the ctek via a 30amp fuse.
This cable is fused with 30amp fuses at starter battery & ctek end.
In the future I will feed my 70mm cable in from the engine bay to the passenger seat & that will be fused at 300amps both end.
When I do that I will add in the ctek 120 smartpass so total up to 140amps from both cteks.
- One question do I now need to remove the coding for the factory leisure battery system?
Cheers
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