[Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --

[TallPaul_S]

Orion XS is back in stock at 12v planet...

Victron Energy Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC Battery Charger

--CALL TO PRE-ORDER-- Next generation 12V DC-DC charging solution from Victron Energy. Smaller, lighter, cooler, more powerful & now with a VE.Direct port to connect to GX devices.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Typically I paid 30 quid more for one a week or 2 ago as it didn't look like any stock would be available for weeks, if not months!

 

[Dellmassive]

Orion XS is back in stock at 12v planet...

Victron Energy Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC Battery Charger

--CALL TO PRE-ORDER-- Next generation 12V DC-DC charging solution from Victron Energy. Smaller, lighter, cooler, more powerful & now with a VE.Direct port to connect to GX devices.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

View attachment 245693

Typically I paid 30 quid more for one a week or 2 ago as it didn't look like any stock would be available for weeks, if not months!

that was quick. . .

down to #1 already.

 

[Captain Quick]

I just got my order in for one. The question now is where to fit it.

My camper was supplied with the factory-fitted auxiliary battery under the passenger seat and it seems a bit cramped under there so I’m wondering whether it be better to put it under the driver’s seat where there’s much more space and air circulation. This means removing the split charge relay and running cables from the relay feeds along with the battery -ve through and along the channel across the floor and under the driver’s seat. This looks straightforward enough... I hope so anyway.

 

[TallPaul_S]

I just got my order in for one. The question now is where to fit it.

My camper was supplied with the factory-fitted auxiliary battery under the passenger seat and it seems a bit cramped under there so I’m wondering whether it be better to put it under the driver’s seat where there’s much more space and air circulation. This means removing the split charge relay and running cables from the relay feeds along with the battery -ve through and along the channel across the floor and under the driver’s seat. This looks straightforward enough... I hope so anyway.

View attachment 245804

You'll need to fuse the feed from the SB anyway, so snip the relay (and fuse - it's after the relay) off, add a midi fuse at that point, then run your 2x or 3x 16mm² cables for the IN, GROUND and OUT feeds on the Orion XS across between the seats.

Actually yours is a T6.1 so might be a little different to my T6.

 

[roadtripper]

I believe the 6.1 has a split charge relay with bolted terminals

 

[Captain Quick]

I believe the 6.1 has a split charge relay with bolted terminals

That seems to be the case. I was planning to use the engine battery feed with the bolt hole terminal to connect to the midi fuse that I’ll fit (as @TallPaul_S mentioned). The other cable will be connected to an insulated bus bar terminal block fixed under the seat. That way I shouldn’t need to cut off the factory terminations allowing it to be returned to a factory install should I ever need to.

 

[TallPaul_S]

That seems to be the case. I was planning to use the engine battery feed with the bolt hole terminal to connect to the midi fuse that I’ll fit (as @TallPaul_S mentioned). The other cable will be connected to an insulated bus bar terminal block fixed under the seat. That way I shouldn’t need to cut off the factory terminations allowing it to be returned to a factory install should I ever need to.

Nice, if it's got an M5 terminal on there then it'll fit straight into a midi fuse holder. You might need to cut off the ignition signal wire though as goes straight into the H port on the Orion with a bare wire. If course you don't need to use the signal wire.

 

[Captain Quick]

Nice, if it's got an M5 terminal on there then it'll fit straight into a midi fuse holder. You might need to cut off the ignition signal wire though as goes straight into the H port on the Orion with a bare wire. If course you don't need to use the signal wire.

I see on the information sheet the SCR has M6 terminals which should make it simpler… at least I hope it will be. I seem to remember @r00ps had to open up the hole to fit a CTEK 250 and that has M8 terminals. I need to do a bit of research to see whether I need to connect the signal wire feed to the Orion XS but looking at the user manual it seems to suggest that the unit doesn’t need an engine-run signal connection.

 

[roadtripper]

Picture from @r00ps thread on upgrading the factory install to a CTEK

T6.1 factory aux battery split charge relay upgrade & solar panel install.

Hi, I had the factory fitted aux battery ( under a single seat with swivel base ) fitted to my T6.1 with the intention of using it as a camper leisure battery. After getting less than impressive performance and reading about how the split charge relay is a pretty bad charging method I wanted to...

www.t6forum.com

 

[Captain Quick]

Woo hoo, my Orion XS has come. I ordered it late on Wednesday afternoon and it was delivered lunchtime today (Friday). Superb service from 12Volt Planet.

Judging by its small size (it's only 1.5" / 39mm in width) I reckon I should be able to fit this under the passenger seat (between the end of the battery and the seat base side panel) after all. If I can it will certainly simply the installation.

 

[TallPaul_S]

Woo hoo, my Orion XS has come. I ordered it late on Wednesday afternoon and it was delivered lunchtime today (Friday). Superb service from 12Volt Planet.

Judging by its small size (it's only 1.5" / 39mm in width) I reckon I should be able to fit this under the passenger seat (between the end of the battery and the seat base side panel) after all. If I can it will certainly simply the installation.

Yeah there's loads of room to slip it down the side of the battery, even a big 230ah seatbase one.

 

[Ads_Essex]

Do these run hot like the older versions, or has Victron sorted it out with the XS?

 

[TallPaul_S]

Do these run hot like the older versions, or has Victron sorted it out with the XS?

Nowhere near as hot, the efficiency is much much higher (less efficient = more heat) and there's no need for a big heatsink. However, they can still thermal throttle, it'll just ramp down the amps if it does this. I've had mine at 50a and never noticed this.

 

[Dellmassive]

Do these run hot like the older versions, or has Victron sorted it out with the XS?

its gots hot if running at full whack 50A for a long time, ( ie 3hrs drive with a low lithium battery)

but turn it down to 30A and its cool as a cucumber.

much better than the previous TR which got silly hot.

 

[Qnapper]

Love ours, yes as stated long drive it gets hot, but I have fitted mine next to vehical battery and it gets enough air supply to keep it cool enough to touch, even here in Spain. Can post photo´s if needed

 

[Ads_Essex]

Love ours, yes as stated long drive it gets hot, but I have fitted mine next to vehical battery and it gets enough air supply to keep it cool enough to touch, even here in Spain.

Can post photo´s if needed

Photos of this sound good, please

 

[Qnapper]

Did not see this reply until now sorry..... Will do in the morning.

 

[brenmona]

Afternoon. I have had my van fitted with a 180 watt panel and a Ctek 250 SE. I changed the leisure battery to Lithium 100 amp as the original solar panel failed and killed the battery as I had a fridge plugged in. The reading I get from my Autoterm Comfort controller is a max of 13.2V. Reading through this it seems it's the Ctek that does not have a setting to increase the voltage for the optimum Lithium charge? From the lithium curve it seems I am losing out on quite a bit of storage? Am I correct? If so what controller would be best please.

Many Thanks

 

[TallPaul_S]

Afternoon. I have had my van fitted with a 180 watt panel and a Ctek 250 SE. I changed the leisure battery to Lithium 100 amp as the original solar panel failed and killed the battery as I had a fridge plugged in. The reading I get from my Autoterm Comfort controller is a max of 13.2V. Reading through this it seems it's the Ctek that does not have a setting to increase the voltage for the optimum Lithium charge? From the lithium curve it seems I am losing out on quite a bit of storage? Am I correct? If so what controller would be best please.

Many Thanks

Have a read of the d250 SE manual - it does have a lithium profile but to change it you need to change how the black battery select cable is connected.

 

[Bigsidavies]

Afternoon. I have had my van fitted with a 180 watt panel and a Ctek 250 SE. I changed the leisure battery to Lithium 100 amp as the original solar panel failed and killed the battery as I had a fridge plugged in. The reading I get from my Autoterm Comfort controller is a max of 13.2V. Reading through this it seems it's the Ctek that does not have a setting to increase the voltage for the optimum Lithium charge? From the lithium curve it seems I am losing out on quite a bit of storage? Am I correct? If so what controller would be best please.

Many Thanks

I just connected the black battery select wire to the SB input on the CTEK unit when I did mine.
Just checked my Renogy app and it’s showing 100% at 13.2v.
What are we saying the LiFePo voltage should be?