[Guide] How To Line Your Own Van.

Hi. I’m really appreciating the guidance on here from slidepods, many thanks.

I’m poised with my first two layers complete, 2mm skinz & 7mm Dodo thermo liner. I know you’ll be a busy man but could you give a heads up if another layer of insulation will go in (and what?) before putting the ply back up. Thank you!
 
Hi
I did the same as you did, then finished off by filling the gaps with recycled plastic loft insulation from b & q, looks like fibre glass, not expensive and does the job
 
Hi. I’m really appreciating the guidance on here from slidepods, many thanks.

I’m poised with my first two layers complete, 2mm skinz & 7mm Dodo thermo liner. I know you’ll be a busy man but could you give a heads up if another layer of insulation will go in (and what?) before putting the ply back up. Thank you!

No problem @Scottheys :thumbsup:.

Yep a good quality fibrous insulation to wad the cavity. Don't fit it too densely recycled plastic bottle insulation is a good option. I prefer DoDo fleece however I could do with looking into the production process to see if its a recycled product. If not I may buy some recycled stuff in myself to see what our customers prefer between "brand" and "green" :thumbsup:.

If anyone in the south west needs CNC cut panels and floors in the southwest drop me a line and I'll be happy to cut you some (bit of a pain to ship so collection only)
 
The Next stage is putting the carpet to the metalwork. To be honest there isn't a lot i can teach you here as its a pain and experience counts for everything here. You just get better with lots of practise!.
I can give you a few key pointers that will help.

1- WEAR A MASK
2- Buy more glue than you envisage you will need (its useful to have a few tins in the garage once the vans all finished)
3- Glue everything liberally and dont be tight with the carpet (work with full sheets where you can)
4- take time positioning the sheet and tab the top edge along the top beam of the van lightly (it will come apart and re stick if you only gently stick every 300mm or so)
5- I work forward from the rear of the van (I'm sure someone will tell me I'm doing this wrong ;))
6- The best place to have joints in your carpet is over the tailgate. Its not an easy skill to make seamless joints in stretch carpet but possible (I'll post some pics)
7- Watch that rear wheel arch!!! don't let the carpet stick to it as your running it into areas around it that require lots of stretch over the whole sheet length! You will know if you make this mistake :).
8- Enjoy talking like Bane from Batman in your mask for a bit :D
 
Sorry to anybody thats been following this thread that the last post could have helped and struggled needlessly! :thumbsup:
 
Another little tip is to install your fiberous insulation after you carpet the metalwork of your van to avoid it getting covered in glue and sticking to the carpet.
 
I went out into the workshop yesterday and took a few pictures of a van during its lining process to show closeups of the seamless joints around the rear cross beam of the van.
Ill post these photos up in the highest resolution possible. I'm sure I read somewhere that these joins in the carpet "spoil the look of a lining job", I'll let you guys be the judge of that ;).
20191023_125432.jpg 20191023_125421.jpg
 
Before I go on to talking about different ways of making your panels is everybody happy with the detail given in this thread so far? Or would anybody like to add anything they feel may have been missed out?
 
quick question, i have silent coat and dodo 7mm "insulation" ontop of it... however after watching a scientific guy actually explain the whole "insulating materials" thing, it would appear the usual loft insulation is the key in all this, with the material having so many air pockets etc...

In the garage we have a load of RECYCLED GLASS insulation, is this suitable? I've seen somewhere over a year ago about a certain type of loft insulation being a "no no" due to water moisture being held within the insulation itself. (i also plan on making it moisture tight between the inside of the van and behind the ply panels. (using thin foil insulation sheet with foil tape)

TIA
 
The photos that accompany the instructions are a great help in understanding each step, great effort !
 
Before I go on to talking about different ways of making your panels is everybody happy with the detail given in this thread so far? Or would anybody like to add anything they feel may have been missed out?

My only outstanding query is: Are there any quick wins in the drivers cab in terms of sound deadening and insulation that I can complete whilst I’ve got the materials to hand?

Thanks.
 
quick question, i have silent coat and dodo 7mm "insulation" ontop of it... however after watching a scientific guy actually explain the whole "insulating materials" thing, it would appear the usual loft insulation is the key in all this, with the material having so many air pockets etc...

In the garage we have a load of RECYCLED GLASS insulation, is this suitable? I've seen somewhere over a year ago about a certain type of loft insulation being a "no no" due to water moisture being held within the insulation itself. (i also plan on making it moisture tight between the inside of the van and behind the ply panels. (using thin foil insulation sheet with foil tape)

TIA

On this one we currently use DoDo Thermo fleece but are considering moving across to recycled plastic bottle insulation if it performs as well and has a lower environmental impact.
Personally I wouldn't advise using fiberglass insulation as it tends to hold on to moisture and no matter what you do an amount of condensation will form in the panel cavities of a T6.
 
My only outstanding query is: Are there any quick wins in the drivers cab in terms of sound deadening and insulation that I can complete whilst I’ve got the materials to hand?

Thanks.

There are no "quick fixes regards soundproofing the cab area. We do soundproof the front doors at Slidepods for customers that want us too however dont feel there is any real benefit to soundproofing the floor. Doing the roof area could have a benefit as its quite a large area that could vibrate but its not something we do in the cab as standard.
 
I did tease a few photos of some lining panels we were developing recently in another thread but have decided to pop the final pics of them up in this thread.

We will be offering a similar design moving forward however carpeting these ones was a bit too labour intensive so in order to make the upgrade cost effective we will be making a few amendments.

We think that when combined with one of our custom etched roofs a splash of colour in the carpeted panels looks pretty awesome.

Obviously we are very interested to know what you all think of them :thumbsup:

Slidepods-23.jpg Slidepods-5.jpg Slidepods-2.jpg
 
I like that. Definitely a good addition to a day van, but would be mostly hidden in our camper.

Pete
 
On a sub note... bit of advertising.
Mostly recently we have been pissing about on the CNC with this etching lark! :)
so if you fancy a custom bit of this with hidden fir trees then give us a shout :thumbsup:
View attachment 43768

Or perhaps one of our customisable new roofs. These are fully fixed up using the genuine panel clips VW fixing holes no screws or glue and are rock solid. We can offer bespoke patterns, with / without courtesy lights got some pretty cool ideas with these and bossed panel details that we fancy doing if you like something new and unique. They can be prepped prior to arrival and fitted with new lights in under 2 hours so long as all roof panel fixings are available to make use of.
View attachment 43769
View attachment 43770 View attachment 43771
All the marks brush out with an offcut of carpet. We just hadnt got round to it when i snapped these quickly in the workshop :thumbsup:
loving the ceilings, do you offer postage on these?

also looking at the pics, the top quarter panel looks separate to the main ply lining, how have you managed to attach that in place??
 
loving the ceilings, do you offer postage on these?

also looking at the pics, the top quarter panel looks separate to the main ply lining, how have you managed to attach that in place??

Its great to hear you are impressed by our designs and finish.

I'm afraid we don't offer postage on the ceilings you could opt to collect one however to be honest it only takes us about 1 to 2 hours to fit one once we have made it up so it would be better to just let us do it as then you have a 2 year warranty on the install.

With regards our split rear quarter panel design there are a couple of ways of fixing them in place but we went through a lot of trial and error to find a system we are happy with. Obviously we tell our paying customers exactly how we do it if they ask and have told a few friends in the industry over the years but we don't give away all our secrets publicly as I'm sure you will understand. ;)
 
So lets go on to talking about lining panels......

There are a few ways you can do this and there are also a few ways you can fix them in place.

So lets talk fixings first.

Hidden trims or fixings on show? We tend to find most people like a hidden fixing, However there is nothing wrong with using a visible fixing and in my opinion so long as you use a descent panel fixing it can look great and is easy to reverse engineer.

Obviously anybody following this thread will see just how much effort goes into the design of our 4mm thick lightweight ply lining panels and we would love to make a version of these available for customers to purchase and install in D.I.Y jobs to give you all the ability to achieve a professional level lining job at home. Maybe one day I will get round to designing a unique T6 forum members lining package that includes everything you need along with a you tube video on how to install it all.

In the meantime I intend to show you another super easy method to get a really slick finish on your panels. From a materials point of view its extremely cheap and has the added benefit of being super quick and only requires a minimal level of design and carpentry skill to achieve. This is not a system we use at Slidepods but I will buy in the materials required to enable me to make a couple of panels up so i can provide a descent how to for anybody wishing to use this method. This may take me a while to do as we are stacked out in the workshop at the moment but I promise I will make time for it in the near future. However i will give a brief overview for anybody wishing to attempt this now. If anybody does have a go please take some pics and P.M them to me as they may be able to be used in the thread for the benefit of others :thumbsup:.

For those that wish to use this method its worth noting that whilst giving a really slick finish it does make the panels about 6mm thick and very dense and when compared to a 4mm thick lightweight ply panel it will easily triple the weight of each panel you install (I will add the exact weights of both systems over an area of say 300mm square then use CAD to work out the exact area to give a 100% accurate weight comparison to anybody that's interested on the difference over in weight over a whole van)

What will you need??? a full set of factory panels and x3 sheets of 4mm thick 8x4 MDF boards along with some low profile head fir tree fixings (these can be found here but be warned once they are in they don't come out easily)

step 1 - Lay a factory Hardboard panel on top of the MDF and scribe round it with a pencil, On the rear quarters extend the bottom area behind the wheel arch. Around the grab handle on the tailgate draw a 75mm square to be cut out of the MDF to allow the grab handle to mount back in easily afterwards, repeat this on the tailgate latch and if you have barn doors give 25mm clearance around the handle to allow the plastic trim to clip back on (DO NOT MARK ANY CLIP HOLES).

Step 2 - workout where the low clearance area on the sliding door area is against the rear wheel arch when the door is open and mark a rectangle roughly 125mm high and 80% the length of the panel to be cut out of the MDF. Mark the hole for the sliding door bump stop on to the MDF to be cut out after.

Step 3 - Jigsaw everything out carefully including the internal marks on the tailgate / barn doors and the sliding door and sand the edges to achieve a nice round over on the internal face.

Step 4 - Spray contact adhesive all over the grey face of your factory panels and the reverse face of your MDF panels and leave to flash for a few minutes (Remember to wear your vapour mask for this)

Step 5 - install the trim fixings into the factory panels everywhere.

Step 6 - bond the MDF directly to the factory panels (this will hold the trim clips in place and make it 100% impossible to see and trim fixings which is cool)

Step 7 - Carpet the panels, possibly in a nice 2 tone if that's your thing.

Step 8 - Install the panels carefully taking the time to make each trim clip line up with the factory holes (I suggest you have all electrics in place first as they will be a sod to remove if you use the clips I recommended)

Step 9 - Sit back crack a beer and be smug that you managed to design / make / carpet and install all your slick looking lining panels in just a couple of hours all by yourself with just a simple how to by the chaps at Slidepods BOOM!
 
Great thread
Few questions.
On spraying the entire back of the fabric. When you then start at the back how do you not get the rest sticking to everything including itself when doing over the door to start? I thought you just sprayed the metal where you wanted to apply?

when your sticking to the sides you cover the whole side with fabric then trim the areas out where the soundproofing is in external panel?

finally. Are the panels and floors going up on your website? :)

thank you.

s
 
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