[Guide] How To Retrofit MFSW And Cruise Control To T6 Eu6 2019 Startline - Also Hacking DSG Paddles For CCS

Just double checking -

Also volume up/down buttons do work?

To the white BCM connector? Was the pin occupied before?
Hi mate. Yes all the phone, next track and MFD buttons etc on the RHS work. Volume up and down on the right work. The CCS buttons change status in the BCM and ECU but have the fault in question.

I installed a wire from pin 11 at the steering wheel to pin 1 on connector T10.
I wired pin 9 on the steering wheel to the black on the headlights switch and pin 10 to the unoccupied pin 36 of the white BCM plug.

Byte 29 bit 6 has been turned on to tell the BCM it's using the MFSW EU6.

I've done these before with no issue I'm on a complete loss. I've spoke to 2 other retrofitters and still no further forward.

It's annoying to say the least .

Could his instrument cluster be an issue with it being the very basic one? I've never retrofitted to a van with these clocks in and I doubt it would cause an issue but at this point I'm open to ideas. I want to get it sorted for @T6_FunBus as I'm not the kind of company to do a conversion that doesn't work properly and then wash my hands of it. I've got to get to the bottom of this and rectify it for him.
 
What post number you at I only got to 391 at the minute I've made some notes but not had chance to go through them yet.

Personally I'd expect the BCM to see signals to. ECU.needs to know when cruise is on and what speed etc. Bcm needs to know so it can send the messages to the instrument cluster to say CCS on and the speed so the cluster can turn on the correct signage surely?

It's frustrating and I want to get to the bottom of it. I've had another enquiry today about a wheel same age and spec as yours and I'm reluctant to do it until this is resolved.

The wiring must be ok as the wheel sends signals to the BCM and ECU. MFA and Audio buttons work and back illumination on the buttons work. This is done through LIN I'm 99% sure coding is spot on so still rattling my head with what's wrong
I’s agree, seems like it should tegister then in main control unit and body control. I got through the entire thread whilst full of turkey and junk food slumped on the sofa I did take quite a few screenshots :)

My overall conclusion was that everything was done and should be done as per this thread.

A few things stuck out though which may be of use to people in future:

- pin 17 on BCM is normally pinned for electric windows and door controls. It is also used for eu5 vehicles with stalk ccs
- if moving ccs to MFSW on eu6, must leave window / door control wire on 17 and pin mfsw to pin 36 then enable in coding as per original instruction in this thread or windows etc will not work (someone moved all from 17 to 36 and it caused issues?)
- if someone has ccs on stalk as well as MFSW and uses it, it will confuse the system, log an error and disable mfsw until ignition is cycled (does not matter in my case)
- if someone has MF in wiper lever and activates wheel MF will stop working also until ignition recycled (does matter in my case)
- Either way levers present ‘shouldn't’ stop MFSW from working as long as they are not used
- Horn wire should be removed from pin 11 on stalk connector prior to connecting GRA on pin 11 (actually states in instructions in this thread upon re-checking)
- Clock spring loom must be of correct type? And have all 5 wires in black connector or require modification to loom
- Setting Byte 17, bit 2 to 1 = activate GRA via MFSW
- EU5 2016 must have ccs fitted with lever only as BCM is definitely not compatible
- Without checking part no, EU6 vehicle ie Stop Start + adblue etc should have latest bcm and be compatible with GRA / CCS via MFSW
- Basic instrument cluster with no oil temp etc is also compatible
- Also should work with any non MF equiped vehicles / basic cluster without buttons on wiper stalk, just will not display function in cluster but will still be controlled via ecu
- There was a note about enabling MFD in some clusters

None of that really helps me though lol.

And to confirm up down audio, skip tracks everything works, even answer and hang up phone, also MFD controls via wheel, just CCS disabled with E45 error and will not activate on MFSW.

Merry xmas again all! :) Hope santa bought you all some nice toys.
 
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Could his instrument cluster be an issue with it being the very basic one? I've never retrofitted to a van with these clocks in and I doubt it would cause an issue but at this point I'm open to ideas. I want to get it sorted for @T6_FunBus as I'm not the kind of company to do a conversion that doesn't work properly and then wash my hands of it. I've got to get to the bottom of this and rectify it for him.
I actually had the same thought yesterday too, maybe it can’t activate due to cluster. But then I read that basic gauges also seem to work so not sure.

127D5CDB-824B-4E22-91B0-B1FA08F41EC4.png
 
You're about 300 posts in front of me lol
Lol, I was going cross eyed by the end of it yesterday good luck

There are some useful nuggets of extra info in there that are not in this thread (some I highlighted above).

I think the upshot of the entire thread I linked is that what the OP summarised in this forum is the correct or most common install config.

Annoyingly, it seems E45 / signal implausible GRA / CCS is the most common problem faced and can be either wiring, coding or hardware, so basically anything lol. I’m hopeful it can work, but still haven’t come to any clear conculstion as to what to start with.

I am also considering the possibility that as an ex fleet vehicle perhaps coding is already changed after factory for some reason, somewhere else (do you recall we had two unknown wires going into BCM that were snipped and I found behind the dash then I had tied back previously). I’m not sure what pins they went to or what they could have possibly been used for. That being the case, maybe some coding is already changed? But it would be an odd coincidence for anything to be changed when vehicle does not have CC that would impact CCS, and by configuring as per this thread, it probably wouldn’t matter anyway.

If I had a spare set of buttons I may also be tempted to switch over to check, but that annoyingly means locating and buying used buttons just to check, and Patrick assures me he tested all functions on the switch pack on his own vehicle before fitting /shrugshoulders

I’m a bit like you, having worked in IT troubleshooting issues I can’t let it go lol. Especially as every-time I get in the van I am reminded by seeing the buttons that don’t work lol.
 
Lol, I was going cross eyed by the end of it yesterday good luck

There are some useful nuggets of extra info in there that are not in this thread (some I highlighted above).

I think the upshot of the entire thread I linked is that what the OP summarised in this forum is the correct or most common install config.

Annoyingly, it seems E45 / signal implausible GRA / CCS is the most common problem faced and can be either wiring, coding or hardware, so basically anything lol. I’m hopeful it can work, but still haven’t come to any clear conculstion as to what to start with.

I am also considering the possibility that as an ex fleet vehicle perhaps coding is already changed after factory for some reason, somewhere else (do you recall we had two unknown wires going into BCM that were snipped and I found behind the dash then I had tied back previously). I’m not sure what pins they went to or what they could have possibly been used for. That being the case, maybe some coding is already changed? But it would be an odd coincidence for anything to be changed when vehicle does not have CC that would impact CCS, and by configuring as per this thread, it probably wouldn’t matter anyway.

If I had a spare set of buttons I may also be tempted to switch over to check, but that annoyingly means locating and buying used buttons just to check, and Patrick assures me he tested all functions on the switch pack on his own vehicle before fitting /shrugshoulders

I’m a bit like you, having worked in IT troubleshooting issues I can’t let it go lol. Especially as every-time I get in the van I am reminded by seeing the buttons that don’t work lol.
In Patrick's defense I've never had a wheel come with faulty buttons but how he tests them I don't know. He'll admit himself covering the wheels is his thing but the electronics side isn't.

I'll happily recheck all the wiring and coding but I'm confident the wiring is 'A' ok and 99% the coding is spot on I'm thinking it's a hardware issue but not sure with what. Shouldn't be the BCM as that is a 090 ending BCM so supports CCS and the ECU is EU6 so again fine. I'm truly stumped never had this before. We'll get it sorted though.

The wires are a red herring they where scotch locked onto an ignition 12v and convenience system CANbus (orange/green) but now I've physically removed it it's nothing to be concerned about.
 
So maybe the fact the ECU is registering the button as working (assume voltage changing as expected when pressed) but the BCM isn’t seeing it is throwing the error saying the switch is defective.

The CCS buttons showed as functioning in the Advanced Measuring Blocks for both 01 ECU and 09 BCM.

The cruise on/off button I could find and see working in the ECU but not the BCM not sure if that's right

Personally I'd expect the BCM to see signals to.

The CCS buttons change status in the BCM and ECU

Sorry guys but I'm a bit lost here.
Please clarify - do the CCS buttons change their statuses BOTH in 01-ECU and 09-BCM, or engine only?
 
Sorry guys but I'm a bit lost here.
Please clarify - do the CCS buttons change their statuses BOTH in 01-ECU and 09-BCM, or engine only?
Hi @mmi it shows in both the only button I couldn't find working in the BCM was the cruise on/off button (top right buttons LHS set) but I could see it change status on the measuring blocks in the ECU. With the exception to that button all other buttons on the wheel I witnessed changing status in both the ECU and the BCM.

IMG_20211219_205048_130.jpg
 
Hi @mmi it shows in both the only button I couldn't find working in the BCM was the cruise on/off button (top right buttons LHS set) but I could see it change status on the measuring blocks in the ECU. With the exception to that button all other buttons on the wheel I witnessed changing status in both the ECU and the BCM.
Thanks, I think I'm back on track now.

Yes indeed also the on/off button should be seen in both - below a snippet from a log:

Address 09: Cent. Elect. (7E0 937 090 D)
004-1 ON Cruise Control Main Switch
004-2 Not Oper. Cruise Control Cancel Switch
004-3 Not Oper. Cruise Control SET/Decelerate
004-4 Not Oper. Cruise Control RESET/Accelerate


In ECU the on/off button responds as follows (at stand-still, press and hold the on/off button down):
Address 01: Engine (04L 906 056 KN)
IDE00355 Cruise Control System (CCS): status: passive/off
IDE06708-MAS14965 Cruise control switch actuation-Plausibility check of main switch No/Yes
IDE06708-MAS14972 Cruise control switch actuation-Hardware signal main switch: No/Yes
IDE06708-MAS14976 Cruise control switch actuation-variance adapted successfully No/Yes
EDIT: the above updated/confirmed on 22.1.2022 after a revisit to the van​
EDIT: the above logging was done engine running.

Below the button setup (OEM) I had the play. The van has the "better" black/white MFD.
1640540920275.png


I installed a wire from pin 11 at the steering wheel to pin 1 on connector T10.
Desperate times - did you verify there is a black/yellow wire from T10/1 to the ECU itself (T94/44) . I got impression the van didn't have the CC from factory... so possibly the wire was not installed at factory.

99% the coding is spot on
Agreed - seems correct to me.

An Excel spreadsheet for decoding T6 BCM codings in [edit] Forum downloads
 
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Could it be feasible, that the button works for 12v signal to ecu, however, the mfsw switch pack or loom is faulty and not communicating with the BCM for that button?

I don’t know whether this switch sends 12v signal separate to ecu via pin 11, AND second signal on pin 36 BCM on the LIN bus.

Or if ECU sees signal on pin 1 and then communicates to BCM to activate.
 
Could it be feasible, that the button works for 12v signal to ecu, however, the mfsw switch pack or loom is faulty and not communicating with the BCM for that button?

I don’t know whether this switch sends 12v signal separate to ecu via pin 11, AND second signal on pin 36 BCM on the LIN bus.

Or if ECU sees signal on pin 1 and then communicates to BCM to activate.
Have a look at @dnoermann 's posts here
 
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Thanks, so the 12v is working to the ECU, but the button on the lin bus is not.

At the back of the buttons there is a controller, it could be that the button whilst communicating to ECU is not transferring data via LIN.

That would mean the buttons are faulty, wheel builder claims they are not. But the inly way to prove is to switch the buttons.

The issue with that is that even if I source and buy a second hand switch set for t6, there is zero guarantee that they won’t have a problem…

Unless anyone can think of another scenario as to why all buttons show in bcm, but only ccs on/off shows in ECU.
 
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@mmi thanks for your help so far matey.

04-1 in BCM 100% never changed status and yes there was a black and yellow wire that went from the other side of T10/1 towards the ECU.

@T6_FunBus if we could get a wheel known to be working on another van and swap the wheel with yours if the fault stopped it's the buttons if it doesn't then it's something else but you'd need to speak to a member willing to do this
 
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Looking at this the wire to the ECU is purely an on/off signal so the ECU knows whether to act upon all other signals sent from the BCM to the ECU e.g speed up/down. The LINbus wire sends all the command signals to the BCM including a signal saying CCS has been turned on (both ECU and BCM would need to see an on signal) and speed is set to say 70mph. BCM then converts this LIN signal and broadcasts it on the CANbus network, the ECU see's the signal being broadcast on the CANbus network and Bob's your uncle.

In which case it is feasible that the ECU is getting a 12v on signal from the buttons but the same button isn't, for what ever reason transmitting the signal to the BCM.

Also I'd like to stress that I have fitted alot of wheels done by Patrick and if he says he has tested it his end I'd have no reason to doubt him.

I know this post hasn't exactly cleared the muddy waters but I wouldn't want anyone getting the wrong impression about Patrick and if we do find the buttons at fault he'd sort it out. As he has said to me before the buttons are an expensive parts of his wheel builds there's absolutely no point send faulty goods out to a customer.

If there is some one with a similar wheel that is willing to let us use it as a test I'd be will to come down and meet you guys somewhere and carrybout the swap. Plus rescan both vans so we can compare data and recheck all previous data on your van @T6_FunBus, may need the wife to assist as I have my knee op on the 7th Jan.
 
yes there was a black and yellow wire that went from the other side of T10/1 towards the ECU.
Darn, running out of easy options. You surely have tried disconnecting starter battery? T6 BCM is known sometimes to get derailed and needs rebooting - perhaps just wishful thinking now...:rolleyes:
 
@mmi No I didn't whilst he was there but it's worth a shot. The only thing I did do when I do coding I try to always tick the soft rest box before clicking "Do it" to get the module I'm working of to reboot but a hard reboot with the battery can't harm. I'm a little disappointed in my self for not suggesting that sooner.

@T6_FunBus disconnect the battery, join the + & - cables together whilst they're disconnected from the battery and leave them connected for say 5 to 10 mins then reconnect it all. It may with a bit of luck work
 
Thanks guys, to be honest I said to my wife maybe I should disconnect the battery yesterday, as previous experience from mercedes bcm and rear / front SAMs got confused on occasion and only way to restore function or to get optical audio communicating again was a hard reboot.

So normal battery removal process correct as per any other car?

Remove negative first so nothing dumps its juice to ground quickly, then remove positive.

Connect both terminals after and leave, then positive back on battery followed by negative back on.

All good?
 
I’ve seen a aet of mfsw buttons, aparently brand new on ebay for £150, I might buy them and then can switch them over at some point to test. If it makes no difference, then just sell them on hopefully to make most of my money back, just slightly discounted on to a member here. I’m not sure anyone would be kind enough to let us take their van apart?
 
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