[Guide] How To Retrofit MFSW And Cruise Control To T6 Eu6 2019 Startline - Also Hacking DSG Paddles For CCS
- Thread starter chang1
- Start date
This is gripping reading fellas.....hope you get a successful conclusion
Just to clarify - you did drive the van and tried to engage the CC?
Just asking because e.g. Adaptive CC doesn't turn on dash symbol unless van is moving. I'm not exactly sure about how basic CC behaves.... when I did the logging engine was running and I think the dash symbol indicated on/off even at standstill.
I'm assuming the fault memory was not cleared after battery disconnect (shouldn't make difference but...)
On first page of this thread is a mention of "dirty" +12V feed causing the same fault
Although the light switch is fed directly from a fuse - perhaps a try to feed (temporarily) e.g. from cigarette lighter socket - just to eliminate that one.
It's a possibility (changing the supply). the issue is @T6_FunBus lives near Swindon and I'm about 3 hours North on the outskirts of Chesterfield
Correct symbol comes on as long as the ignition is on and/or possibly engine running. That said @T6_FunBus has different clocks to you. He has the ones with no temp gauges in so not sure the symbol shows the same as I have very little experience with these clocks.
Thanks guys for continuing to try and assist! 
Appreciate forum members who have stepped in massively and credit to Dav-Tec for clearly supporting customers way beyond any initial work.
Basic clocks - not sure, I read somewhere om the German forum that non or basic-MFD it still works, but may not show in cluster. I assume mine should, as I have temp, speed limit, trip 1+2 , mpg etc, I don’t believe I have speed, but maybe that isn’t a more fancy MFD but coded?
I drove over 40mph and tried all CCS buttons, no display changes, no error in MFD, just like they weren’t even there. I ‘think’ if a fault registered in memory perhaps it disables system?
I’m between finding a family member with an android device and getting obdeleven to clear codes in diff modules and check live data etc or maybe getting new buttons.
I also recall a dirty 12v signal when reading threads, I think something to do with wheel loom and feedback.
I could neatly snip the 12v to the lights, temporarily connect to another feed (even direct to battery?) and test, but if not, then it would be a bit of a bodge back into that wire on the bcm.
The saga and my quest for ccs continues lol.
You honestly have no idea how happy I would be to press a button and it work haha.
Oh @Dav-Tec I fancy a remap in the NY, so maybe we can tie up a few things and kill two birds with one stone - if we get a positive lead on the issue that is!
Appreciate forum members who have stepped in massively and credit to Dav-Tec for clearly supporting customers way beyond any initial work.Basic clocks - not sure, I read somewhere om the German forum that non or basic-MFD it still works, but may not show in cluster. I assume mine should, as I have temp, speed limit, trip 1+2 , mpg etc, I don’t believe I have speed, but maybe that isn’t a more fancy MFD but coded?
I drove over 40mph and tried all CCS buttons, no display changes, no error in MFD, just like they weren’t even there. I ‘think’ if a fault registered in memory perhaps it disables system?
I’m between finding a family member with an android device and getting obdeleven to clear codes in diff modules and check live data etc or maybe getting new buttons.
I also recall a dirty 12v signal when reading threads, I think something to do with wheel loom and feedback.
I could neatly snip the 12v to the lights, temporarily connect to another feed (even direct to battery?) and test, but if not, then it would be a bit of a bodge back into that wire on the bcm.
The saga and my quest for ccs continues lol.
You honestly have no idea how happy I would be to press a button and it work haha.
Oh @Dav-Tec I fancy a remap in the NY, so maybe we can tie up a few things and kill two birds with one stone - if we get a positive lead on the issue that is!
Yeah no problem with that buddy. We'll get you sorted one way or the other. I need to get to the bottom for my own piece of mind.Thanks guys for continuing to try and assist!
Basic clocks - not sure, I read somewhere om the German forum that non or basic-MFD it still works, but may not show in cluster. I assume mine should, as I have temp, speed limit, trip 1+2 , mpg etc, I don’t believe I have speed, but maybe that isn’t a more fancy MFD but coded?
I drove over 40mph and tried all CCS buttons, no display changes, no error in MFD, just like they weren’t even there. I ‘think’ if a fault registered in memory perhaps it disables system?
I’m between finding a family member with an android device and getting obdeleven to clear codes in diff modules and check live data etc or maybe getting new buttons.
I also recall a dirty 12v signal when reading threads, I think something to do with wheel loom and feedback.
I could neatly snip the 12v to the lights, temporarily connect to another feed (even direct to battery?) and test, but if not, then it would be a bit of a bodge back into that wire on the bcm.
The saga and my quest for ccs continues lol.
You honestly have no idea how happy I would be to press a button and it work haha.
Oh @Dav-Tec I fancy a remap in the NY, so maybe we can tie up a few things and kill two birds with one stone - if we get a positive lead on the issue that is!
aasnesen
Member
Hi
I have a 2016 T6 with a steering wheel without buttons. It's CCS on stalks. I have bought a complete MFSW Polo steering wheel so I wonder if I think correctly that I can skip steps in the user manual below since I have CCS.
Point 4 I reckon goes out?
I'm a little confused on what I really need to do on points 5 and 6.
Is there perhaps someone who can explain exactly in relation to a car with CCS
4 - Get Access to the T10 connector under the battery
If you are lucky and already have CCS then you can skip this otherwise putting the wire into the T10 connector is the hardest part of the installation.
Remove the battery and the covers below it.
There you will find an enormous bunch of wires and connectors along with the ECU. Of course the T10 connector is right at the bottom.
I found the easiest way to get at it was to disconnect all the connector above it first. There are two black connectors so be careful. The one you want should have a black and yellow wire that it connects to the ECU pin 44 with. I also removed the glove box to help with the routing of the wire.
5 - Remove Redundant Wires from the Stalks Connector T41
The horn will now be operated by the LIN Bus so the brown and yellow wire has to be removed from pin 11 and insulated. This stops the horn sounding when the CCS on/off button is pressed.
If you have CCS on the stalks, and are not changing them to non CCS stalks, remove the six stalk CCS wires from pins 26 to 31 and insulate them. Remove the black and yellow CCS wire from pin 45 on the BCM connector T73b.
6 - Install the 3 Repair Wires
First Run two wires from the stalks connector T41 pins 9 and 10 to the pedal area.
If you already have CCS, reuse the black and yellow wire from pin 26 or 29 (they are connected) for pin 11 and another disconnected wire (I used the blue wire from pin 31 don't use the other black and yellow wire) for pin 11 (wires from pins 9 and 11 should now already be installed).
Pin 9 wire needs splicing into the black wire on the light switch connector. Take extra care with this one as if it fails your lights may go out.
Pin 10 wire needs splicing into the wire for pin 36 in the BCM connector T73b
Pin 11 wire goes to pin 1 of the T10 connector under the battery. I routed it through a blanked hole near the wheel arch, that I think would be used for the bonnet release cable on LHD vans. Then I drilled a hole to get to the T10 connector. The loom I had for the old CCS kit just reached the T10 connector.
Regards
Joar
I have a 2016 T6 with a steering wheel without buttons. It's CCS on stalks. I have bought a complete MFSW Polo steering wheel so I wonder if I think correctly that I can skip steps in the user manual below since I have CCS.
Point 4 I reckon goes out?
I'm a little confused on what I really need to do on points 5 and 6.
Is there perhaps someone who can explain exactly in relation to a car with CCS
4 - Get Access to the T10 connector under the battery
If you are lucky and already have CCS then you can skip this otherwise putting the wire into the T10 connector is the hardest part of the installation.
Remove the battery and the covers below it.
There you will find an enormous bunch of wires and connectors along with the ECU. Of course the T10 connector is right at the bottom.
I found the easiest way to get at it was to disconnect all the connector above it first. There are two black connectors so be careful. The one you want should have a black and yellow wire that it connects to the ECU pin 44 with. I also removed the glove box to help with the routing of the wire.
5 - Remove Redundant Wires from the Stalks Connector T41
The horn will now be operated by the LIN Bus so the brown and yellow wire has to be removed from pin 11 and insulated. This stops the horn sounding when the CCS on/off button is pressed.
If you have CCS on the stalks, and are not changing them to non CCS stalks, remove the six stalk CCS wires from pins 26 to 31 and insulate them. Remove the black and yellow CCS wire from pin 45 on the BCM connector T73b.
6 - Install the 3 Repair Wires
First Run two wires from the stalks connector T41 pins 9 and 10 to the pedal area.
If you already have CCS, reuse the black and yellow wire from pin 26 or 29 (they are connected) for pin 11 and another disconnected wire (I used the blue wire from pin 31 don't use the other black and yellow wire) for pin 11 (wires from pins 9 and 11 should now already be installed).
Pin 9 wire needs splicing into the black wire on the light switch connector. Take extra care with this one as if it fails your lights may go out.
Pin 10 wire needs splicing into the wire for pin 36 in the BCM connector T73b
Pin 11 wire goes to pin 1 of the T10 connector under the battery. I routed it through a blanked hole near the wheel arch, that I think would be used for the bonnet release cable on LHD vans. Then I drilled a hole to get to the T10 connector. The loom I had for the old CCS kit just reached the T10 connector.
Regards
Joar
Answering to my own question - below a snippet from @T6_FunBus 's VCDS scan's engine section.
Well, not exactly new information here - but probably just points out (still unknown) mismatch...
Just thinking aloud: communications to BCM is a LIN bus and CC buttons except on/off are registered correctly there. Also the ECU seems to register on/off button hardware signal correctly - so indeed would be tempting to try a known working MFSW on this van.
Well, your van has accumulated 136000 miles... VCDS most likely would pay for itself in not so distant future -
Interestingly the MFSW was available here (LHD) for EU6 T6 (MY16-19) only with fancier instrument cluster = separate temp and fuel clocks inside rev counter and speedo.
However, the LHD and RHD basic clusters have different part numbers: 7E0 920 860 S (LHD) and 7E0 920 960 S (RHD) (these for MY16-18 only).
Anyways, nothing obvious Cruise Control related in the codings or adaptations of 17-Instruments.
If memory serves me correctly the 8 or 9 in the last 3 digits denotes left or right side of the vehicle ie left or right door handle, cluster, seat belt, fan blower etc.
As for the coding the 2 red line and the green line was that in the BCM or ECU? I can't remember or find the post now. If it's the BCM that would lead me to think it's looking more like the buttons as I can't think how it could be a wiring or coding fault as I've double checked guides and what I've done and old logs from other customers vehicles and I can't see where the coding could be wrong.
As for the coding the 2 red line and the green line was that in the BCM or ECU? I can't remember or find the post now. If it's the BCM that would lead me to think it's looking more like the buttons as I can't think how it could be a wiring or coding fault as I've double checked guides and what I've done and old logs from other customers vehicles and I can't see where the coding could be wrong.
You mean these?
Those lines were in VCDS Auto-Scan engine section Freeze Frame Data which @T6_FunBus posted earlier >HERE<
Re the coding - to me they look correct. However, we haven't looked into BCM adaptations - though not expecting any surprises in there.
Working hypothesis at the moment:
As there are only two communication wires - one to ECU, one to BCM - and both respond to some buttons - this suggests both those wires are good. However, for some reason either the ECU or the BCM is not happy with on/off message - either the button itself sends crappy messages or there is interference - thus the proposal to use different +12V supply. Or ground?
Well, might be too ambitious interpretation but if we look into timestamps of the faults >HERE< the BCM has manifested the fault at 17:35:54, the ECU seems to have received the manifest at 17:35:57 and finally at 17:35:58 ECU has interpreted the error message and decided not co-operate any further. Does this give us the clue to concentrate on on/off button to BCM communications - why it's not happy?
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Can you provide more details on this termination/connection.
Any photos?
Thanks MMI, I can pull the switch and move the 12v to a temporary fused cable to the battey to remove any possibility of an issue with the 12v supply from the light switch.
That seems to be the most common pick up point for the wire, so not sure why it would be an issue, all other buttons appear to be working just fine but it rules out another one.
I am not sure if the error needs clearing though in the ecu as well, if it does, then there is no point in me switching the wire yet, as I do not have the ability to reser.
I suppose if the error does not need clearing then it’s worth eliminating by trying anoyher power supply first?
Reference the point you highlighted, taking information from everything I have researched over the past few weeks;
Correct you shouldn’t need to do point 4 as the GRA signal from ECU to Stalks should already be present on pin 26 of the stalk connector.
You remove horn wire from pin 11 on stalk connector then move the GRA wire from 26 to pin 11 on the connector.
You then need to run two wires from pin 9 and 10.
Pin 10 goes to BCM under the dash pin 36 for MFSW LIN bus connection.
Pin 9 goes to a switched 12v power supply to power the wheel (people seem of often use ignition 12v on headlight light switch).
The OP is saying to remove the CCS stalk specific wires as you cannot have stalk ccs wired in and mfsw ccs wired in it will conflict in the ecu. You can reuse the wire on 26 which is the GRA as mentioned above.
You then need to do the coding in this thread to instruct the ECU that mfsw is fitted.
Good luck.
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