how long will it take for interior lights to run ignition battery dead and other ecoflow questions

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black_trany

Member
I'm planning on adding 4 downlights to the roof in the rear of my t6.1 And debating if it will be fine to run off ignition battery with a seperate switch or if i should be on seperate circuit and connected to my ecoflow setup. I will retain the cargo lights that will continue to work as normal (on a timer when doors open) But i need another light source when im just chilling or doing work in the back hence the need for 4 led downlights..

How long would it take to run the battery down if 4 led downlights were powered from the main ignition battery?

And as a second thought can LED down lights be powered via usb on a ecoflow delta?

My delta is a series 1 so it only has 1 dc (car lighter style) connector and that will be plugged into a crx50 fridge which will be a max capacity. So im guessing the other option to run the lights will be via the usb ports.....

Obviously i have the x4 230v sockets on the ecoflow delta and i could use an led driver to convert power but im guessing this wouldnt be as efficient and may prompt the cooling fans to come on Delta which can be quite loud....

Thanks for any advice
 
Don't run them from your starter battery, or you will end up with a flat battery after a weekend away.

Run time depends on the spec of the lights, or watts/hours.
 
It will be best to run them from a separate leisure battery.

Running them from the EF will be inefficient on USB or 240v.. . And if your EF 12v is maxed out... You can't use that .

Doesn't your EF have secondary 12v output s via smaller DC jacks? Can't you use them.?
 
You could add a smallish 12v battery and small DC-DC charger to run your lights and fridge.

Leaving the EF free for other things.
 
Hi thanks for reply

I have the mark 1 ecoflow which only has the one cigarette style dc output and I want to run crx50 fridge and 4 downlights form it
Not exactly sure on what the actually draw is from fridge but the lights at rated a 3w and I want 4 of them

www.atenlighting.co.uk

LED Black Slim Downlight, Recess Mounted

Anodised black aluminium downlight designed for recess mounting, made with a metal body and bezel. The light fitting has built in LEDs, providing a bright light for just 3W of power. This fitting does not have a switch so is suitable for use where a separate switch is used - e.g an existing...
www.atenlighting.co.uk www.atenlighting.co.uk

The EF dc car output states it’s 108.8W, 13.6V DC, 8A max

Will that be enough for fridge and lights?

I didn’t plan on having a full electric setup as there may be time when it’s not used for longer periods of time and the EF offers flexibility (and I already own)

I was planning on getting a 200watt solar plug straight in to EF and then charge it that way …….
The EF has 3 ac plugs and lots of USBs but I’m guessing and you mentioned they are not as efficient if they have to be converted to dc…

Not sure what’s best now budget and ease. You mentioned small 12v battery do you have any examples and would that charge from the ecoflow ?

Thanks
 
60w for fridge.
12w for led lights.
So 72w ish.

But pulling 8A from that 12v will make it get hot.

But less so as the fridge cycles on and off.

You might need to make a short connection cable to get the 12v out the EF,... Then to either a small busbar or fuse box, to get the feed for lights and fridge.
 
Yes. Fuse box will be ok.

But that 12v plug looks a bit iffy.

That won't take 80w.

You need a beefier version.
 
ok great thanks so much for help Dell
was thinking this...


but Im guessing the 12v plug wont need a fuse as it going to fuse box so somthing like this will work... any reccomended gauge....?


also what fuses terminal would be suitable for fridge and what fuse terminal for lights,, is there an easy way to figure it out
Thanks
 
That plug looks much better.

12v plug to fusebox.... Then out to loads.
 
W=V*A

A=W÷V

....

So 60W fridge divided by 12v volt= 5A, then add a margin, so fuse at 10A.

15w LEDs, divided by 12v = 1.25A.. add margin. Fuse at 5A.



.......

Note the fuse is there to protect the cable....

So the fridge cable should be fused at say 10A but the cable should be rated at 20A.

Same with the lights., Fuse at 5A, but use 10A cable.

.
 
Amazing thanks so much super helpful.
Look forward to sharing build when done and you've been a massive help..

whilst I've got you i wanted to double check this solar will work with my ecoflow...

here are details of solar

  • peak power: 200W
  • Maximum power voltage: 19.8V
  • Maximum power current: 10.10A
  • Open circuit voltage: 23.4V
  • Short circuit current: 10.71A
  • Power allowance range: +/- 5%
  • Solar Panel dimensions: 1500 x 680 x 4 mm

And EF states

400W 10-65V DC 10A max

I notice 10.71A on solar but it should be ok ?
 
black_trany said:
Amazing thanks so much super helpful.
Look forward to sharing build when done and you've been a massive help..

whilst I've got you i wanted to double check this solar will work with my ecoflow...

here are details of solar

  • peak power: 200W
  • Maximum power voltage: 19.8V
  • Maximum power current: 10.10A
  • Open circuit voltage: 23.4V
  • Short circuit current: 10.71A
  • Power allowance range: +/- 5%
  • Solar Panel dimensions: 1500 x 680 x 4 mm

And EF states

400W 10-65V DC 10A max

I notice 10.71A on solar but it should be ok ?
Click to expand...
Yes the EF is max 10A in,

So it will pull power from the panel up to 10A and then self regulate...... That panel will be fine .

Just keep an eye on the conectors as they will start to get hot over 6A.

The new EF units have moved over to XT60 connectors that are more suited to running 10A current.
 
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