Hi thanx for your reply the only reason i ask is I've wired it all up and it works fine without them conected.
Does it make a difference.
Ignition Live Under Passenger Seat - How Its Done -
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
Does it make a difference.
Yes, it does make a difference. When the alternator switches off you will no longer have charge to your leisure battery. This is the whole point of the red wire. The black wire being grounded raises the charge voltage to 14.6 from 14.4 to suit AGM battery.
Thanx again what amp fuse would you suggest in the fuse box ie red wire.
And just confirm that with my leisure battery please see picture i dont need to connect the earth ie black wire.
3 amp will be fine. No, you don't need to connect the black.
Thanks to @Dellmassive for the original write up. I have been doing my research on my first time full DC-DC Camper electrics installation. I found this thread
Fog Light Retrofit
thanks @zebra which is really useful for telling you how to get into the BCM for option 1 in the how to guide. Hope its OK to link the two things together.
I didn't even know where the BCM was! Although now I do I shall probably take @travelvolts advice and go for Option 2 fuse location.
Fog Light Retrofit
thanks @zebra which is really useful for telling you how to get into the BCM for option 1 in the how to guide. Hope its OK to link the two things together.
I didn't even know where the BCM was! Although now I do I shall probably take @travelvolts advice and go for Option 2 fuse location.
It isn't a nice job getting at the BCM 
Slight thread hijack - are there any useable feeds under the drivers seat? I seem to recall bunches of wires under there too.
looking to add a 12v socket each for the kids (x2) to avoid power sharing conflicts!
Plan is to fit a Sutars socket (marine grade components) in each of the plastic lower trim on the front seats. Middle fuse board isnt far away so no hassle really if nothing under the drivers seat.
Cheers
Ian
looking to add a 12v socket each for the kids (x2) to avoid power sharing conflicts!
Plan is to fit a Sutars socket (marine grade components) in each of the plastic lower trim on the front seats. Middle fuse board isnt far away so no hassle really if nothing under the drivers seat.
Cheers
Ian
Nothing of any use to you under there. Have you checked under passenger seat for aux fuse box?
I swapped the double passenger seat out for a single and only wires / connector blocks for stuff at the rear. No fuse boxes or big thick power cables!
Out of interest, what cables are under the drivers seat?
Out of interest, what cables are under the drivers seat?
If ordering a new van, you can add the interface block for not much money (it was £90 in 2017) this gives you access to many of the van systems including D+ & ign+
Thank you very much for your help all done now seems to be fine.
Usually just seat air bag if fitted and occupancy sensor, sometimes heated seat wiring.
There is no D+ on an intelligent alternator. This must be some form of modified X relief.
The “X” rings a bell, I’ll have to have a look in the builders handbook, it gives all the pinouts for the interface. I used a “D+” equivalent for the Sterling B2B that I picked up from the interface.
See picture at ---> Webasto Auxiliary Heater - customizing
For aux.coolant heater: Red plug, pin 17, thick (2.5mm²) red/yellow, fused by SC46 under center dash (or SH11 under right seat if early T6 equipped with aux.battery).
EDIT:typo
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Hi All,
This is very helpful post regards the ignition live, thank you. I had read a few posts before and previously fitted the a CTEK 250 and run all the cables but not got around to final connections.
BUT after connecting today The centre lower fuse box in my T6 Bluemotion is giving permanent volts there, has anyone else found this?
I piggybacked into there and tested with a multimeter and it is showing 12v with ignition on, and off with keys out.
just to try it I connected my CTEK 250 and with ignition off it is lighting up (flashing alternator light which goes solid when I start the engine) I tried a few of the fuses and all show 12v with keys out... Can anyone suggest anything different to try?
thanks.
This is very helpful post regards the ignition live, thank you. I had read a few posts before and previously fitted the a CTEK 250 and run all the cables but not got around to final connections.
BUT after connecting today The centre lower fuse box in my T6 Bluemotion is giving permanent volts there, has anyone else found this?
I piggybacked into there and tested with a multimeter and it is showing 12v with ignition on, and off with keys out.
just to try it I connected my CTEK 250 and with ignition off it is lighting up (flashing alternator light which goes solid when I start the engine) I tried a few of the fuses and all show 12v with keys out... Can anyone suggest anything different to try?
thanks.
I very recently hardwired a dashcam that required both a permanent and an ign switched 12 v supply. I found that the IGN Switched supply is on the centre TOP section of the fuse panel, with the mini fuses. I used a piggy back connector and put it into one of the spare slots and all is working as it should. Sounds like you’re connecting to the wrong part of the fuse panel.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
Just to clarify, that 2.5mm red/yellow wire is switched ignition? I only ask because the webasto wiring diagram shows an ignition live 2.5mm, permanent live 6mm and a brown 4mm back to battery / ground. I'm trying to swap the power supply to the webasto from the van battery to the leisure battery that I installed and it's all giving me a headache. Apologies for the late response, I've been busy at work.
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