Jacking Points And Axle Stands

Has anyone found such a slotted rubber puck that can take the weight? I change wheels twice a year (summer/winter) and have not found a puck yet that has not split by the time I have changed 4 wheels.
@Loz has made a few:
Can be many things, softwood, a Hockey Puck, custom moulded Polymorph are all the things I have used in the past.
Here are a couple of my custom ones.
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Rear - I use the lower suspension arm and jack up as close to the wheel as I can get the jack. As per the video. Take your time with this as your loading the suspension which will cause the van to rock on the suspension slightly, only a few pumps at a time. Then place an axle stand under the jacking point. Then do same for the other side.
I've just had a go at an ABS fault on the rear of my T5.1. I took the sensor out for a cleanup - didn't fix it so new sensor on order.

Similar to SamDicks, I jacked off the suspension arm going to the wheel bearing -.
About half way along there's a raised round section same size as my jack head, very heavy gauge steel - good to stop the jack slipping.
Once up, I put the axle stands under the normal jacking point for the scissor jack.
 
there is a user over on the VWCC Forum (CaliMili), who has done the below. Posting it on this thread to give more ideas on the possibilities.

Quoting his text "Just bought a 2t jack stand and a 5t bottle jack. it is an extremely tight fit having both on the small jacking point, but it works. 29€ between both at the local hardware store."

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there is a user over on the VWCC Forum (CaliMili), who has done the below. Posting it on this thread to give more ideas on the possibilities.

Quoting his text "Just bought a 2t jack stand and a 5t bottle jack. it is an extremely tight fit having both on the small jacking point, but it works. 29€ between both at the local hardware store."

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I’m not sure I’d use a stand held together with rivets, never scrimp on lifting gear.
 
I use a piece of wood. Never bent anything yet. It’s a proper chunky bit of steel.
Wood has worked for me too, 19mm "Jarrah" (Australian), inboard of the "standard" jacking point, then an axle stand goes under the standard jacking point once it is high enough. I just try to make sure the trolley jack can roll freely, to reduce any lateral bending stresses on the lift point. But a strong "puck" might be better . . I'll have to make one. For the top end of it I would use a short piece of square -section steel tube with slots cut in it, rather than rubber, I think.
Thanks, Tim.
 
When jacking via the jack points with my trolly jack, where are you putting the axle stands?
 
When jacking via the jack points with my trolly jack, where are you putting the axle stands?
I’m jacking her up either from subframe near where control arm connects to (front) or under control arm itself (front + rear) and place stands under normal jacking points.

This gives the widest support when on stands. Jacking from under arms is bit inconvenient though as they’re not level - good pad needed
 
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Happy ending?

Seen this idea?
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Not seen one in the flesh, but I would have built it differently so it wasn’t relying on the welds so much for strength. Maybe I’m being too critical.
Exactly what I thought, you’d think the legs would be upright with the cross member laying full span over the legs.
Having briefly worked as factory production MIG welder and seeing productivity over riding quality I avoid stuff like this.
 
At the rear you should see a right angle of chassis sticking down in front of the rear wheel where the rear wishbone swivels.
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At the front I use the wishbone or the jacking point with pad, depending on what I'm doing but use stands if I'm going under...
Hi all, just trying to find exact where I need to Jack and place stands so I can replace my brakes. Happy doing the brakes but no idea how to get it off the ground and on stands.

Thanks Ruch
 
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