Jacking Points And Axle Stands

kurienp said:
Why not use the axle stands at the provided jacking slots just behind the front wheels? Wider and will be more stable IMHO. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Yea i probably will to be fair, would be easier to access as well....is anywhere on the subframe safe to jack from? As thinking untill i source a beam as @Niknak posted above, if i use the jack points for axle stands where to put the jack ?
 
Did you see that video posted on here a few days back about the guy doing mobile clutch changes in the snow. He lifted the front in one go from a central point. Couldn’t make out where though.
 
huw169 said:
Did you see that video posted on here a few days back about the guy doing mobile clutch changes in the snow. He lifted the front in one go from a central point. Couldn’t make out where though.
Click to expand...
It looked to me that he was jacking on the centre of the sub frame, doesn’t mean it was right though. He was also jamming axle stands under the cills for additional safety, not great for the bodywork. Not his van, has to work fast and it works.
 
DXX said:
It looked to me that he was jacking on the centre of the sub frame, doesn’t mean it was right though. He was also jamming axle stands under the cills for additional safety, not great for the bodywork. Not his van, has to work fast and it works.
Click to expand...
Looks like he is lifting from here, would this not be suitable/safe then?

20210314_223329.jpg
 
Just stumbled across this thread and was intrested to read everyone’s thoughts and opinions.

This is how I jack up T5 or T6 vans to lift all four wheels, I must have done 6 or 8 by this method. I have a 3 ton Halfords advanced jack with using 3 ton SGS axel stands along with some wheel chocks.

Firstly handbrake on and place into a highgear and place the wheel chocks under the rear wheels first.

Front - I jack up from the centre of the subframe as pictured above. It’s important to keep it dead center to evenly distribute the weight between N/S and O/S bolts on the subframe. Place an axle stand on the front jacking points just behind the front wheels. If you are working on and older van it’s worth inspecting the subframe first, along with the jacking points.



Rear - I use the lower suspension arm and jack up as close to the wheel as I can get the jack. As per the video. Take your time with this as your loading the suspension which will cause the van to rock on the suspension slightly, only a few pumps at a time. Then place an axle stand under the jacking point. Then do same for the other side.

If you are not confident then i reccomand finding someone local who can lend a hand. Make sure you have the right tools for the job too.
 
SamDicks said:
Just stumbled across this thread and was intrested to read everyone’s thoughts and opinions.

This is how I jack up T5 or T6 vans to lift all four wheels, I must have done 6 or 8 by this method. I have a 3 ton Halfords advanced jack with using 3 ton SGS axel stands along with some wheel chocks.

Firstly handbrake on and place into a highgear and place the wheel chocks under the rear wheels first.

Front - I jack up from the centre of the subframe as pictured above. It’s important to keep it dead center to evenly distribute the weight between N/S and O/S bolts on the subframe. Place an axle stand on the front jacking points just behind the front wheels. If you are working on and older van it’s worth inspecting the subframe first, along with the jacking points.



Rear - I use the lower suspension arm and jack up as close to the wheel as I can get the jack. As per the video. Take your time with this as your loading the suspension which will cause the van to rock on the suspension slightly, only a few pumps at a time. Then place an axle stand under the jacking point. Then do same for the other side.

If you are not confident then i reccomand finding someone local who can lend a hand. Make sure you have the right tools for the job too.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the detailed reply, i hear so many conflicting things about jacking and jack points. Becomes a bit of a headache working out where to start. For instance i've read you shouldn't use a trolley jack on the factory jack points as apparently there only designed for the scissor jack which comes with the van:rolleyes:
 
Where did you hear that? In 30 years I have never had a problem with the jacking points on cars. Only Citroëns I thought may bend but never did
 
Cjscos said:
Where did you hear that? In 30 years I have never had a problem with the jacking points on cars. Only Citroëns I thought may bend but never did
Click to expand...
It was a haynes article, although granted it was about cars not vans, whether or not that would make a difference ?

haynes.com

5 things you must do when working under a car

Working under a car is tricky enough without making it dangerous as well. These five tips will help you stay safe under your vehicle.
haynes.com haynes.com
 
They make not a bad point, when it comes to cars the jacking point I find in cheaper models is a reinforced section of the seal. Often the jack head is bigger than this reniforced section so you end up putting pressure on the seal. I would imagine this mainly on older cars. I don’t often work on new cars as they are too complicated!

This happened in my first car which was a clio. I always use the subframe and other points where I can on a car if that jacking point looks too small for a jack, just a bit of thought and judgment.

However the transporters have a lovely angle plate for the jacking point which is spot on for lifting
 
SamDicks said:
They make not a bad point, when it comes to cars the jacking point I find in cheaper models is a reinforced section of the seal. Often the jack head is bigger than this reniforced section so you end up putting pressure on the seal. I would imagine this mainly on older cars. I don’t often work on new cars as they are too complicated!

This happened in my first car which was a clio. I always use the subframe and other points where I can on a car if that jacking point looks too small for a jack, just a bit of thought and judgment.

However the transporters have a lovely angle plate for the jacking point which is spot on for lifting
Click to expand...
That begs the common question though of if you jack from the jacking point, where to put the axle stand?
 
I must admit I dont like using subframes due to it could effect various angles with steering etc if it's bent or moved. I Would rather have a bent floor pan than that lol

I put them where it is double reinforced on the floor pan just below the bulkhead. But....they are not enough all like that....

On other cars that is...
 
CarpyT6 said:
Thanks for the detailed reply, i hear so many conflicting things about jacking and jack points. Becomes a bit of a headache working out where to start. For instance i've read you shouldn't use a trolley jack on the factory jack points as apparently there only designed for the scissor jack which comes with the van:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

This is 100% correct- you must not use just a trolley jack on a T6 jacking point. The jacking point is shaped to accept a slotted jack, like the one supplied by VW.
You just need to use a slotted rubber puck (loads on EBay) on top of the trolley jack lifting platform. If you don‘t, the jacking point edge could bend.

Pete
 
SamDicks said:
Firstly handbrake on and place into a highgear
Click to expand...

Thanks for sharing. Just a small technical and safety point. You should place the vehicle into a low gear when jacking, not a high gear. Low gear = engine finds it easy to move vehicle and hard for vehicle to move engine. High gear = hard for engine to move vehicle and easy for vehicle to move engine. The gearbox ratios are working in the opposite direction.
 
Pete C said:
You just need to use a slotted rubber puck (loads on EBay) on top of the trolley jack lifting platform. If you don‘t, the jacking point edge could bend.
Pete
Click to expand...
Has anyone found such a slotted rubber puck that can take the weight? I change wheels twice a year (summer/winter) and have not found a puck yet that has not split by the time I have changed 4 wheels.
 
I use a piece of wood. Never bent anything yet. It’s a proper chunky bit of steel.
 
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