L/Battery - go large or go lithium?
- Thread starter Chris1983
- Start date
-
- Tags
- dc - dc charger victron vsr
Presuming pulling this in line fuse isolates leisure system from starter battery, or would I be better disconnecting fully? Fuse is 80.
Stumbling at an early hurdle. Big negative ring terminal not big enough for the seat chassis ground point. Looks like the middle of under seat point is obscured by what the converters did with heating duct.
So I need to purchase some bigger ring terminals…..stalled
So I need to purchase some bigger ring terminals…..stalled
You can get crimp lugs from any local electrical wholesaler eg Electric Center or Edmondsons but you'll need a crimper too so will need to borrow/hire/buy one at the same time.
Failing that are there any other bolts locally fixing to the metal floor you can use eg seatbase fixings, you've just got to get an earth here, not trying to bolt down girders.
If you did decide to add a shunt and display this earth/neutral point link cable will be the point where you install the shunt neutral connector block so that any currents flowing to and from the leisure battery can be measured and indicated on the remote display.
Failing that are there any other bolts locally fixing to the metal floor you can use eg seatbase fixings, you've just got to get an earth here, not trying to bolt down girders.
If you did decide to add a shunt and display this earth/neutral point link cable will be the point where you install the shunt neutral connector block so that any currents flowing to and from the leisure battery can be measured and indicated on the remote display.
The electrics will be working as they're running of the new battery - but the DC-DC needs too be in charger mode, not power supply.
Check on the Fogstar app and you should see a few amps going out depending what you've got turned on.
Then, with the DC-DC in charger mode and the correct lithium profile set, start the engine and turn on your lights to force the alternator to provide charge and you should see 18a going into the battery.
Check on the Fogstar app and you should see a few amps going out depending what you've got turned on.
Then, with the DC-DC in charger mode and the correct lithium profile set, start the engine and turn on your lights to force the alternator to provide charge and you should see 18a going into the battery.
And have I understood ant installation correctly? Wire into slot alongside both positives and a ground to chassis?
The literature talks about buying another cable and doing clever laptop things!?! I understood this was simply a fit and forget?
Legit tho, I am thrilled if this is all working well and cannot thank everyone enough
The literature talks about buying another cable and doing clever laptop things!?! I understood this was simply a fit and forget?
Legit tho, I am thrilled if this is all working well and cannot thank everyone enough
Amt excuse typo
Yeah that looks good - have you got solar already fitted from the previous installation?
As for the Ablemail, I used the fuse terminals on my DC-DC in from the SB (I have a fuse in the seat base as well as next to the SB) but essentially it just needs one positive connected to the starter battery and the other positive to the leisure battery. Then ground to ground.
You can leave it on the default settings and it'll top up the SB regardless of whether you're getting any solar charge - it uses very little power so this just means it's using the vast capacity you have in your LB to top up the SB.
As for the Ablemail, I used the fuse terminals on my DC-DC in from the SB (I have a fuse in the seat base as well as next to the SB) but essentially it just needs one positive connected to the starter battery and the other positive to the leisure battery. Then ground to ground.
You can leave it on the default settings and it'll top up the SB regardless of whether you're getting any solar charge - it uses very little power so this just means it's using the vast capacity you have in your LB to top up the SB.
I did Solar myself with A LOT of support from forum whizz’s.
I will read your post a couple of times to make sure I understand
Is it bad practice to stick positives into same port on DC to DC as already used? I am just thinking of avoiding cutting more wires.
And re: ground. Daft question. But the bolt I’ve used for all other grounding is large. This grounding wire is tiny, so how do I connect that to the grounding point?
And re: ground. Daft question. But the bolt I’ve used for all other grounding is large. This grounding wire is tiny, so how do I connect that to the grounding point?
It's not the ideal but have a good look and think contact area - you want the high current wires to have the most surface area in contact. Often with a biggish screw down terminal if you put the high current wire at the bottom (so it gets all the contact area in the fixed bit) and tuck the lighter guage on top it will work.
I wouldn't try getting any more than that in, that's the point to switch to a bus bar.
Similar threads
