Leaking Kombi Windows? How-to guide to resolve.

I would not bother trying with the warranty. I did and got absolutely nowhere. I ended up replacing with a fixed OEM glass panel.
I do still have the whole failed unit and happy to give to anyone who wants to try a fix. I am away in the van until mid July. Happy to work something out if you can do anything with the old unit.

Yeah, that's my gut feeling with the warranty. Considering I could get a camperglass flush fit replacement fitted for about £300, it doesn't seem worth the risk/donation to the main dealer for a diagnostic fee that won't have much/any chance of success...

I think someone else (maybe @DXX) was looking for a donor one to try and fix?
 
I've threaded the 4mm cord through the seal and superglued the slits (I ended up needing 4 in total to get it right the way round). Cleaned up with silicone spray and fitted back round.

I also cleaned up the rusted area as best as I could.

Contemplating some additional sealant mastic around the rusted area as it seems quite gappy and suspect that might be part of the problem. @TallPaul_S any thoughts around doing this, or reckon I should just stick the window back in and see how it goes?

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An update on my window repair progress.

I bulked out the seals with 4mm rubber cord (threaded through with bike gear cable, which was doable, but fiddly). I cleaned up as much of the rusted area at the top as I could, then fitted the seal back in - we bit of black Stixall at the small section on the RHS that seemed to have been bonded from factory, as well as a bit around the rusted section.

I dry fitted the rest of the seal around the perimeter and set about reinstalling the sliding window, as per the original posters guide. All was going well until almost the final stage. When I tried to close the window, the locking mechanism wouldn't close down properly. I stupidly tried a water test when I had the window closed as tightly as I could - tsunami!

After a bit more inspection, I could see that part of the seal was catching, pulling it out of position and preventing the window from closing fully. I decided to try Stixall around all the seal to try and keep it in place and then had another go.

It was still almost impossible to close the window, but with a bit of coaxing the trim back inside and plenty of pressure, I eventually managed to slip the top pin in to lock it shut. With a bit more manipulation,I finally got the bottom one in and put the handle back on.

With the window properly shut (handle/opening mechanism correctly closed and pins fully in place at top and bottom) and looking correct from the outside, I decided to do another water test.

Bone dry after a few pint glasses of water launched right at the seals. Night and day compared to the previous attempt (and to how it was before I had taped the whole window up to temporarily stop the leaking). Hopefully this will stand the next few days when rain is forecast - in going to leave the tape off and stay vigilant!

At the moment, I don't think the window is usable - I'm pretty sure I wouldn't get it shut again with all of the trim, etc back on. My only hope is that if I leave it closed for a few weeks that the seal (and the new rubber cord) might get compressed into the new shape and be more amenable to opening and closing.

The main thing for now would be stopping the water - I'm hoping that I can at least take that as a win!

Thanks to @TallPaul_S for the rubber cord suggestions posted previously - did you find it more difficult (almost impossible!) to close the window initially, after inserting the cord into the seal?
 
I had zero issues closing the windows, it wasn't any harder than without the foam in the seals.

It sounds like your seal might not be seated correctly and it's moving when there's friction, stopping the window from closing?

The foam doesn't make the seals any bigger, just helps it be a bit firmer to seal against the glass a bit better.

One tip to make sure the window is fully closed, I push outwards at the front of the frame/glass as well as pushing forward at the back of the sliding part, that normally helps to get a good seal.
 
Maybe that depends on how much foam was packed inside?
He said he used 4mm cord like me, which won't have made the seal any bigger.

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I tried 5mm but couldn't get it to go inside due to the friction. It would fit but pulling it through ended up with it snapping party way through.
 
I decided to try Stixall around all the seal to try and keep it in place and then had another go.
I spoke to a converter who always removes the seals and re-installs with a sealant behind the seal, this pushes the seal out to make a tighter seal.
Is it possible that too much Stixall was applied?
 
One tip to make sure the window is fully closed, I push outwards at the front of the frame/glass as well as pushing forward at the back of the sliding part, that normally helps to get a good seal.

Good tip. I went down and tried again this morning after panicking I shouldn't have used a sealant, but having been left closed and pressed in shut all night it has bonded pretty fast. Good news is that I can open/close the sliding window with the handle and all trim back on properly. Hoping this might have done the trick!

It sounds like your seal might not be seated correctly and it's moving when there's friction, stopping the window from closing?

I think this might have been my problem when first putting the window back in. Now that it's been shut overnight, it seems to be seated OK.

Maybe that depends on how much foam was packed inside?

Just the 4mm, same as @TallPaul_S

I spoke to a converter who always removes the seals and re-installs with a sealant behind the seal, this pushes the seal out to make a tighter seal.
Is it possible that too much Stixall was applied?

Yup, the Stixall has probably just pushed the seal that wee bit further out. I wasn't too heavy with it, but maybe wasn't able to push the seal back in fully by hand
I think having now had the window shut, with the pressure on the seal from that, that it might now be in OK.
 
Just followed the advice here and took my window out, cleaned it, poked the drains clear and put it all back together. Fingers crossed!

Have to congratulate @DaveyB on excellent instructions....perfectly written

As some others have mentioned, I did find that there was a lot of corrosion and expansion at the top of the inset window.....does anyone know if you can buy this unit on its own?
 
I haven't done anything about the rusty bits - I think it's a separate issue to the leaking and if/when it gets any worse I'll probably end up replacing the sliding part of the window.

It's obviously water that sits in the seal groove (mine were rusty at the top) which can't escape which over the years causes it to rust. I'm not sure if this is the correct part but it does look like you can find them brand new:


And yes, my windows are still leaking free - maybe a droplet or 2 in days worth of rain but considering I had a small swimming pool there previously I'm more than happy with that!

Just found the ebay link posted by @TallPaul_S (pays to read all pages!)
 
does anyone know if you can buy this unit on its own
I could not find just the sliding unit and ended up replacing the whole lot with an OEM fixed panel.

Edit. Just fully read the post above so ignore me :)
 
Well, I took the window out, cleaned the drain channels and the seal - all looked good (apart from the corrosion at the top of the window insert)

All seemed good until today.....the water is back!

Next step....4mm foam cord ordered...... :rolleyes:
 
Hope the 4mm cord/ foam sorts it for you @DaveF - mine seemed to be much better (though not perfect) but had a heavy rain storm about a week ago and plenty water back in. I've just taped the window up again for our summer trip and will either need to give it another go for a repair or bite the bullet and get a replacement in.
 
Hope the 4mm cord/ foam sorts it for you @DaveF - mine seemed to be much better (though not perfect) but had a heavy rain storm about a week ago and plenty water back in. I've just taped the window up again for our summer trip and will either need to give it another go for a repair or bite the bullet and get a replacement in.

Thanks...hopefully it works. If it doesn't, then I'll be changing both window for solid glass!
 
Thanks...hopefully it works. If it doesn't, then I'll be changing both window for solid glass!
I got fed up with repairing mine and did exactly this. Don't regret it one bit! I went for THQ full fixed glass much nicer from the inside with one big window pane, very clean!
 
I got fed up with repairing mine and did exactly this. Don't regret it one bit! I went for THQ full fixed glass much nicer from the inside with one big window pane, very clean!

and a really good price too! Thanks
 
Can anyone advise how to remove the full OEM glass panel from the van without the need of a centre punch? The slider mechanism seems to limit access top and bottom to get a cheese wire in!

I have a pair of OEM plain windows I’d like to fit instead of the sliders! My situation is complicated by the fact I have OEM rear quarter glass too so need to match the tint.
 
Can anyone advise how to remove the full OEM glass panel from the van without the need of a centre punch? The slider mechanism seems to limit access top and bottom to get a cheese wire in!

I have a pair of OEM plain windows I’d like to fit instead of the sliders! My situation is complicated by the fact I have OEM rear quarter glass too so need to match the tint.

I was thinking the same if I change mine....but I'll probably get a specialist to do it and save the stress and hassle!
 
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