I have purchased some second hand OEM windows to do exactly this when the time comes.Has anyone swapped out the OEM sliding windows for fixed? Is the aperture the same?
You’d have thought the pricing would be the other way aroundAfter some research today I have received a quote to replace the leaking slider with an OEM fixed window. Cost is circa £400 to £500 as opposed to double that for an OEM slider.
Im looking to do the same, any reason you went OEM flixed glass rather than aftermarket? just thinking the aftermarket fixed glass might be cheaper?I had one of my sliding windows swapped out for an OEM fixed panel yesterday by Brandon at AJC Conversions in Glossop who did a fantastic job. Below are a few pictures of the cause of the leak so I would also recommend checking behind the seals as well as clearing the drainage channels.
There is no wonder it leaked but it’s also not covered under warranty.
View attachment 215541View attachment 215542View attachment 215543View attachment 215544
Thanks good reasons there! finished result looks perfect@david173 I decided on OEM to ensure the same tint and match. I also read that aftermarket has a slightly different black border radius at the corners. I thought the additional cost in the overall scheme of things was worth it but if I were replacing both sides I would probably have gone aftermarket.
Great write up, thank you.Stage 3 - reinstallation of the window.
The easiest way to align the rear pivot guides to get the window back in is to rotate them perpendicular to the glass.
View attachment 10934
In the opposite way to how you took it out, line it back up with the bottom of the window further forward than the rear, this will enable you to get both the top and bottom rear guides back in the track.
View attachment 10935
Once lined up, straighten the window, and turn it back through 90 degrees so it is in the correct plane. Pop the top and bottom front guides, back into the track.
View attachment 10936
Your window should now slide freely back and forth along the track. Best to check it does and that the seals are all in the correct place before putting the mechanism back into place.
The best way to put the mechanism in, is with the window fully closed (or the pins won't go in).
Take the mechanism and relocate the top and bottom pins, then slide the centre piece back onto its boss. It may take a little juggling to get the locking pins in, it's just a case of working them, hence why it is better to do this bit with the window closed.
View attachment 10937
Next is the spring retaining clips. Compress the spring and pop these clips back into their seats.
View attachment 10938
View attachment 10939
View attachment 10940
Next is the window handle. Carefully remove the pin, keeping the handle flat, place it back between its top and bottom retaining lugs, and slide the pin back into place through the retainers.
View attachment 10941
Test that operating the handle withdraws the top and bottom pins and enables the window to be opened.
Slide the trim covers back into place over the handle retaining pin, bowing the plastic slightly in the centre to enable the top tab to go back into its locator.
View attachment 10942
Hey presto, window is back in. Get a bottle of water douse the glass and you'll find none of it is now dripping down the inside of the door panel.
Whilst the window is off it is well worth rubbing a little silicone grease over the rubber seal of the window.
Hope this helps. Takes less than ten minutes to take it out, clean the drain hole, and reinstall it. It would take me over an hour to get it back to the stealer to get them to do it and then the hour to sit around and wait!
Has anyone tried opening up the drain holes to allow better flow.Stage 3 - reinstallation of the window.
The easiest way to align the rear pivot guides to get the window back in is to rotate them perpendicular to the glass.
View attachment 10934
In the opposite way to how you took it out, line it back up with the bottom of the window further forward than the rear, this will enable you to get both the top and bottom rear guides back in the track.
View attachment 10935
Once lined up, straighten the window, and turn it back through 90 degrees so it is in the correct plane. Pop the top and bottom front guides, back into the track.
View attachment 10936
Your window should now slide freely back and forth along the track. Best to check it does and that the seals are all in the correct place before putting the mechanism back into place.
The best way to put the mechanism in, is with the window fully closed (or the pins won't go in).
Take the mechanism and relocate the top and bottom pins, then slide the centre piece back onto its boss. It may take a little juggling to get the locking pins in, it's just a case of working them, hence why it is better to do this bit with the window closed.
View attachment 10937
Next is the spring retaining clips. Compress the spring and pop these clips back into their seats.
View attachment 10938
View attachment 10939
View attachment 10940
Next is the window handle. Carefully remove the pin, keeping the handle flat, place it back between its top and bottom retaining lugs, and slide the pin back into place through the retainers.
View attachment 10941
Test that operating the handle withdraws the top and bottom pins and enables the window to be opened.
Slide the trim covers back into place over the handle retaining pin, bowing the plastic slightly in the centre to enable the top tab to go back into its locator.
View attachment 10942
Hey presto, window is back in. Get a bottle of water douse the glass and you'll find none of it is now dripping down the inside of the door panel.
Whilst the window is off it is well worth rubbing a little silicone grease over the rubber seal of the window.
Hope this helps. Takes less than ten minutes to take it out, clean the drain hole, and reinstall it. It would take me over an hour to get it back to the stealer to get them to do it and then the hour to sit around and wait!