Leaking Kombi Windows? How-to guide to resolve.

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Simple solution haha keep the slider and the rubber seal firmly pressed against the rim of the glass to stop the seal letting by?
 
Am I right in thinking that it’s the seal around the slider is what lets the water in? Why can they make a thicker rubber? Problem solved
Or a cable tie in the channel where the rubber sits to make the rubber site 1-2 mm further out and sit tighter against the glass
 
My drivers side sliding window is leaking badly and i have discovered lots and rust under the seal. I have the All In Plan so thought no problem. VW have just declined a replacement as apparently glazing units & water ingress aren’t covered by the policy. I have asked for a good will contribution but doubt I will get anywhere.

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Has anyone swapped out the OEM sliding windows for fixed? Is the aperture the same?
 
Has anyone swapped out the OEM sliding windows for fixed? Is the aperture the same?
I have purchased some second hand OEM windows to do exactly this when the time comes.

From what I have read, aftermarket windows have a slightly different black border so when fitted to a ‘factory’ aperture you can see small amounts of metal work from outside.

Mine is a startline ‘window’ van so has rear factory glass, so I also need to match the tint level, hence I bought 2nd hand. If I just had the middle windows I’d happily replace with aftermarket glass and put up with the exposed tin work.
 
After some research today I have received a quote to replace the leaking slider with an OEM fixed window. Cost is circa £400 to £500 as opposed to double that for an OEM slider.
 
After some research today I have received a quote to replace the leaking slider with an OEM fixed window. Cost is circa £400 to £500 as opposed to double that for an OEM slider.
You’d have thought the pricing would be the other way around :)
 
Very cheap fix ……didn’t want at this time to buy aftermarket windows and wanted quick fix after water getting in to van …so wife suggested seal them with waterproof sealant.. ( used in her marine trade business) so a temp/ perm fix

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We have never opened them ….so works :)
 
I had one of my sliding windows swapped out for an OEM fixed panel yesterday by Brandon at AJC Conversions in Glossop who did a fantastic job. Below are a few pictures of the cause of the leak so I would also recommend checking behind the seals as well as clearing the drainage channels.

There is no wonder it leaked but it’s also not covered under warranty.

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I had one of my sliding windows swapped out for an OEM fixed panel yesterday by Brandon at AJC Conversions in Glossop who did a fantastic job. Below are a few pictures of the cause of the leak so I would also recommend checking behind the seals as well as clearing the drainage channels.

There is no wonder it leaked but it’s also not covered under warranty.

View attachment 215541View attachment 215542View attachment 215543View attachment 215544
Im looking to do the same, any reason you went OEM flixed glass rather than aftermarket? just thinking the aftermarket fixed glass might be cheaper?
 
@david173 I decided on OEM to ensure the same tint and match. I also read that aftermarket has a slightly different black border radius at the corners. I thought the additional cost in the overall scheme of things was worth it but if I were replacing both sides I would probably have gone aftermarket.
 
@david173 I decided on OEM to ensure the same tint and match. I also read that aftermarket has a slightly different black border radius at the corners. I thought the additional cost in the overall scheme of things was worth it but if I were replacing both sides I would probably have gone aftermarket.
Thanks good reasons there! finished result looks perfect
 
me again,factory windows removed and new factory fitted inserted by main dealer still leaking!think its because im parked on an incline but dont know what my next move is surely its a design fault ,anyone had any joy getting the main dealer to put in none oem windows in?
 
Stage 3 - reinstallation of the window.
The easiest way to align the rear pivot guides to get the window back in is to rotate them perpendicular to the glass.
View attachment 10934
In the opposite way to how you took it out, line it back up with the bottom of the window further forward than the rear, this will enable you to get both the top and bottom rear guides back in the track.
View attachment 10935
Once lined up, straighten the window, and turn it back through 90 degrees so it is in the correct plane. Pop the top and bottom front guides, back into the track.
View attachment 10936
Your window should now slide freely back and forth along the track. Best to check it does and that the seals are all in the correct place before putting the mechanism back into place.

The best way to put the mechanism in, is with the window fully closed (or the pins won't go in).
Take the mechanism and relocate the top and bottom pins, then slide the centre piece back onto its boss. It may take a little juggling to get the locking pins in, it's just a case of working them, hence why it is better to do this bit with the window closed.
View attachment 10937
Next is the spring retaining clips. Compress the spring and pop these clips back into their seats.
View attachment 10938

View attachment 10939

View attachment 10940
Next is the window handle. Carefully remove the pin, keeping the handle flat, place it back between its top and bottom retaining lugs, and slide the pin back into place through the retainers.
View attachment 10941
Test that operating the handle withdraws the top and bottom pins and enables the window to be opened.
Slide the trim covers back into place over the handle retaining pin, bowing the plastic slightly in the centre to enable the top tab to go back into its locator.
View attachment 10942

Hey presto, window is back in. Get a bottle of water douse the glass and you'll find none of it is now dripping down the inside of the door panel.

Whilst the window is off it is well worth rubbing a little silicone grease over the rubber seal of the window.

Hope this helps. Takes less than ten minutes to take it out, clean the drain hole, and reinstall it. It would take me over an hour to get it back to the stealer to get them to do it and then the hour to sit around and wait!
Great write up, thank you.
 
Stage 3 - reinstallation of the window.
The easiest way to align the rear pivot guides to get the window back in is to rotate them perpendicular to the glass.
View attachment 10934
In the opposite way to how you took it out, line it back up with the bottom of the window further forward than the rear, this will enable you to get both the top and bottom rear guides back in the track.
View attachment 10935
Once lined up, straighten the window, and turn it back through 90 degrees so it is in the correct plane. Pop the top and bottom front guides, back into the track.
View attachment 10936
Your window should now slide freely back and forth along the track. Best to check it does and that the seals are all in the correct place before putting the mechanism back into place.

The best way to put the mechanism in, is with the window fully closed (or the pins won't go in).
Take the mechanism and relocate the top and bottom pins, then slide the centre piece back onto its boss. It may take a little juggling to get the locking pins in, it's just a case of working them, hence why it is better to do this bit with the window closed.
View attachment 10937
Next is the spring retaining clips. Compress the spring and pop these clips back into their seats.
View attachment 10938

View attachment 10939

View attachment 10940
Next is the window handle. Carefully remove the pin, keeping the handle flat, place it back between its top and bottom retaining lugs, and slide the pin back into place through the retainers.
View attachment 10941
Test that operating the handle withdraws the top and bottom pins and enables the window to be opened.
Slide the trim covers back into place over the handle retaining pin, bowing the plastic slightly in the centre to enable the top tab to go back into its locator.
View attachment 10942

Hey presto, window is back in. Get a bottle of water douse the glass and you'll find none of it is now dripping down the inside of the door panel.

Whilst the window is off it is well worth rubbing a little silicone grease over the rubber seal of the window.

Hope this helps. Takes less than ten minutes to take it out, clean the drain hole, and reinstall it. It would take me over an hour to get it back to the stealer to get them to do it and then the hour to sit around and wait!
Has anyone tried opening up the drain holes to allow better flow.
 
Started my own thread on this as my driver's side slider is leaking, a combination of the the water catch being detached and water getting in past the seals.


But thought I may as well add to the knowledge here



Whipped out the window (thanks to the guide in the OP) and removed the seal to find rust on the top section of the sliding unit.

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Seems this is a common place for it to rust!

My passenger side isn't leaking but I'll probably need to check this for the rust too.

I gave the seal a good coating of silicone grease, wiped off the excess and it looks like it's now sealing as no water is getting in to the channel, so that's one thing. Just the water catch to re seal.

Edit: took out the passenger window too and this has started to go. Not as bad as the drivers side though.

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There's blatantly some sort of design flaw here, but I doubt VW will admit that. However, I don't think the rust in the seal channel is the cause of the leak, as my passenger one has never leaked as far as I can see. Gave the seal a coat of silicone grease and worked a feeler guage into the drain slots anyway.
 
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Offside rear window has been leaking for a while and on reading tis thread I have today clearing the drain holes using a feeler gauge. Both the offside drains were blocked although the front was 100% blocked and the rear maybe 50%, the nearside drains were open but better now I've put the feeler gauge in them too.
Hoping this will cure me leak on the offside window.
All in all though, I think they are a pretty poor VW design, IMO VW should offer a solution!
Shame there's not a like for like better rear window and opening available, (it'd be great it there was a double glazed unit that would just match the existing windows).
 
The replacement non OEM windows are no good for me either as with a caravelle the slider rails fit closely into the interior door trims so I'd need to change them too.

It's obvious that VW know the design is shite (ignoring the rust in the upper sliding section, that's a while other issue!) as they've 'designed' 2 ways of water to escape when it gets past the seals. It's just that those 2 ways are crap!!

So the first line of defense in the ongoing war against water, is to make sure your seals are clean and well lubricated with silicone grease or similar.

If the seals fail, then it's the job of the 2 narrow drain slots to get rid of the water.

If they fail then the final line of defense is the round drain holes and underlying flimsy plastic held on with soft sealant, that eventually fails if you happen to look at it wrong!!

I'm now on stage 3, my front round drain was blocked meaning water over the door card when the first 2 lines of defense were broken, but recently that drain has become unblocked and detached which means a waterfall inside the door card.

I've got some sikaflex coming tomorrow and will try to seal it back up whilst also leaving it not quite pushed against the drain hole, or else water doesn't drain from it!! :rofl:

I've confirmed that it "works" by squirting water inside it from the bottom to make sure it's exiting from beneath the window, which is is. So I just need to seal it up properly.
 
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