I have a leaky passenger door, gathering in the step well, do you know how they fixed it back in 2017?
Leaking Kombi Windows? How-to guide to resolve.
- Thread starter DaveyB
- Start date
Great guide DaveyB, thanks. I have two leaking sliders and need to sort it before converting, so have seal restorer and will dismantle everything for a good clean. When you write about the drain holes @rod_vw and using a mastic gun, do you mean the round holes at the end/middle of the runners? I thought these were just where the spring loaded locking 'pins' sat. I've already opened up the drain holes DaveyB highlights, at the front of the windows, as you can do it without taking the window apart. Not sure it helped at all though. I've tried a few things to clear a path through those, but no joy and didn't want to try too hard, in case they weren't drain holes.
You‘re correct they are not drains, the drains are more like thin slots which exit under the external window trim.
If you squirt some window cleaner at the ends of the rails you should see it run out under the external trim, this should lead you to the slots.
Gobsmackingly crap design but that’s what you get.
I've removed the trim underneath the window and the plastic cover beneath the drain hole isn't sealed, so leaks in. It has been sealed with some sticky black sealant, but the seal is broken (possibly by me trying to clean out the drain hole). That cover should direst the water to the drain hole that DaveyB's drain holes lead. I know it's been written in other places e.g. by rod_vw for example, but there are two parts to this problem:
1. the rubber seal around the sliding section of glass becomes dirty and less pliable, allowing water to pass. This is presumably expected and as this water gets past that first seal, it's meant to run along the channel that the slider tracks along, to the drain holes front and middle, and out. Solution seems to be remove slider, clean and treat rubber seal with Krytox ™ GPL-105 PFPE Lubricant Oil or similar. Ensure drain 'slots' work as per DaveyB's guide. Worn pins on the sliding section may also make the seal loose, as per this video:
2. If water does reach the 'channel' that the slider runs in, it needs to drain, without leaking at the cover plate beneath the drain hole. Solution - as above try to improve that outer seal, regularly clean the channel and check the drain 'slots'. I've carefully cut away some plastic at the top of the drainage slots with a craft knife as surface tension was delaying water going down the very slim opening. Try to improve the seal on the under trim - I'm going to try some simple silicon. The cover allows the water through appears to be attached at the back, so can't be totally removed for a decent look and re-bond.
If this doesn't work, I'm getting aftermarket windows fitted by Van Glass in Carlisle - £450.
1. the rubber seal around the sliding section of glass becomes dirty and less pliable, allowing water to pass. This is presumably expected and as this water gets past that first seal, it's meant to run along the channel that the slider tracks along, to the drain holes front and middle, and out. Solution seems to be remove slider, clean and treat rubber seal with Krytox ™ GPL-105 PFPE Lubricant Oil or similar. Ensure drain 'slots' work as per DaveyB's guide. Worn pins on the sliding section may also make the seal loose, as per this video:
If this doesn't work, I'm getting aftermarket windows fitted by Van Glass in Carlisle - £450.
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Both my sliding windows are leaking, I’ve tried the drain holes but it’s made no difference.
The van is still under VW warranty but I have a kitchen down the drivers side and a Vanshades blind and table storage on the passenger side.
Does anyone know if it is possible for the dealer to sort this without disturbing the kitchen? I don’t really want them removing and refitting it.
The van is still under VW warranty but I have a kitchen down the drivers side and a Vanshades blind and table storage on the passenger side.
Does anyone know if it is possible for the dealer to sort this without disturbing the kitchen? I don’t really want them removing and refitting it.
Can you take the plastic trim off the bottom of the lower window sill and see where the leak is from? When you say you've "tried the drain holes" which ones do you mean - the thin slots or the round holes that also house the locking pin?
To answer your question, I believe they are just replacing the sliding section now, which is a 15 minute job and won't need anything removed (assuming nothing is higher than the sliding glass? Whether it solves the problem though......
To answer your question, I believe they are just replacing the sliding section now, which is a 15 minute job and won't need anything removed (assuming nothing is higher than the sliding glass? Whether it solves the problem though......
Sorry if you know this, but both of those seem to drain into a reservoir in the plastic trim and then out down the side of the van. The reservoirs aren't well sealed (god knows why not) so the water can easily leak into the plastic trim, pooling in the bottom section, then down into the van. I've removed the lower plastic trim and used sikaflex to seal around the reservoirs and along other sections of the plastic trim. I now appear to have non-leaking windows. If you unclip the lower part of the trim and squirt water into the round drain holes, you'll see where it's leaking out. Even if the dealer replaces the sliding section, it won't solve this issue.
You have hit it bang on the head!
This has been the fault all along but VW don't seem to be able to fix it. I've even sent them a video of what you describe and that was many years ago.
Do remember that there are two of there assemblies for each window as there is a hidden drain hole under the centre divide of the window, either or both can leak in this way.
Both, as a tag team in my experience...... Your's still sealed @rod_vw ?
No, I've had three T5s and a T6, some went back to the dealers under warranty but none have ever been totally fixed.
Currently I have not bothered, just keep the sliding portion seal as clean as possible to reduce the amount of wet that passes in. Maybe one day I will dismantle the lower part and see if there is a way of making the joint between the two parts of the drain channel waterproof.
Currently I have not bothered, just keep the sliding portion seal as clean as possible to reduce the amount of wet that passes in. Maybe one day I will dismantle the lower part and see if there is a way of making the joint between the two parts of the drain channel waterproof.
As Rod has mentioned above, keeping the rubber seal on the window clean from dust etc. And then running a small amount of Silicon grease on the rubbers to stop them drying out and to provide a watertight seal seems to work for me. I also had them replaced, but still leaked. So a wee bit of maintenance now and again seems to do the trick!
UPDATE: after steady rain (NW Scotland) and recent storms, I've had no more than a couple of drips. However, just taken the rubber load mat out to fit new floor and RIB etc, and the spongy mat is waterlogged in places. Over a litre of water has drained out so far and some evidence that it has got trough paint imperfections on the floor and started to blister. Worth checking edge of mat below windows for water!
Well, I’ve just been out and cleaned the rubbers and applied some gummi pflege with a cotton bud.
I know that all the drain holes are clear, so if they still leak I think they’re going to have to go.
I know that the non genuine sliding windows don’t look very nice, but does anyone know if they have the same problems with leaking?
I know that all the drain holes are clear, so if they still leak I think they’re going to have to go.
I know that the non genuine sliding windows don’t look very nice, but does anyone know if they have the same problems with leaking?
So, wind driven rain has overcome my drivers side slider again. It was working and had stayed dry for a couple of months. Having fitted kitchen pod and electrics below it now, I can't do with the nagging worry of it leaking/having to remove the slider and clean etc. I've done the clean and Krytox routine again, filled the gaps from the outside neatly with black silicon sealant and 'doctored' the openers so that the window no longer opens. Not ideal, but you have to look closely to notice. Water will have to pass the silicon, then the original seal, then overcome the reservoir/drains. Fairly sure the furniture is now safe. Cheaper than replacing both and the £450-500 can go towards a heater.
