Most likely your starter battery is an AGM and therfore will match. Don’t spill does not “gass” but still requires a vent.What is the difference?
Here is some bedtime reading for you; Battery Basics - Guide to Batteries | BatteryStuff
Most likely your starter battery is an AGM and therfore will match. Don’t spill does not “gass” but still requires a vent.What is the difference?
A very interesting read @Loz.Most likely your starter battery is an AGM and therfore will match. Don’t spill does not “gass” but still requires a vent.
Here is some bedtime reading for you; Battery Basics - Guide to Batteries | BatteryStuff
You can run a microwave off an inverter (I do in my T5.1 work van) but you need a big inverter around 1600w & a small microwave, around 650-700w. The startup current for the microwave is brutal. Personally I wouldn't bother in a camper, gas or a portable induction ring would be more practical imo.
No i havent bought any units as yet but i automatically thought there was a hole for such items already made units?Yeah, your last quote sums up my statement. I understand you can have one, but again it would zap the battery.
@Mickymiff why do you have a 'hole' for the oven if you don't intend to use it. Have you purchased the units from a company? If they're any good, they will be able to utilize the space with a door/drawer etc.
No i havent bought any units as yet but i automatically thought there was a hole for such items already made units?
Ovens in campers are the exception rather than the normNo i havent bought any units as yet but i automatically thought there was a hole for such items already made units?
RS do a range of nice relays that you could use to automatically change your mains sockets over between MHU and the inverter.
This one is nice & solid but reasonably priced at £27 inc, I've used a couple in domestic jobs, no trouble in years of use
Schneider Electric Control Relay 2NO/2NC, 10 A | CA2KN22P7 | RS Components
Pocc wrote: So if a DC-DC is agreed as the best option, why raise the topic? If the 'con' is that the CBE is definitely not as good at charging the aux battery as a DC-DC charger is what's the 'pro'?? In a word cost. I can buy a 240v charger, switch panel with gauges for my camper circuits, built in fuse box, split charge (contentious or otherwise) and mains distribution box for less than the cost of a 'cheap' battery to battery charger.
It is more a choice than a 'right' or 'wrong'. The choice being to have a battery charged to what you may deem an acceptable operational level and accept there may be maintenance issues and that you might get 12 hours off grid instead of 14, or spend a few hundred quid on trying to attain the holy grail of a fully charged battery, relatively speaking 'maintenance free' with the benefits that go along with the DC-DC charger. When I explain to customers the benefit of DC-DC and that it will mean an additional £400 to the build, they often opt for the cheaper solution.
Looking at this from a business rather than Engineering perspective:
In my experience an unprotected wet cell battery rarely lasts more than 12-24 mths in any type of van due to abuse (deep cycling), incorrect charging etc.
An AGM battery is now in a similar price bracket to a standard wet cell - yet if managed correctly the advantages of an AGM are clear. However correct management of an AGM battery charging requirements mean that it requires a DC-DC charger and/or suitable MPPT Solar and/or suitable regular mains charging - or all of the above. And for the ultimate protection a low voltage (50%) cut-off device. Solar and mains charging aside, an AGM, DC-DC charging system with protection can be achieved for £200 - £300 over that of a wet cell VSR system.
With the advantages clear and increased cost so low against the overall cost of a £40k-£70k converted T6 - why would any discerning conversion company recommend anything other than AGM / DC-DC Charging? The additional benefit to a converter is that there would be less customers returning their vehicle with Aux battery issues. I guess the disadvantage is that the converter would make less additional income through the replacement of batteries.
The AGM battery is still a lead-acid type battery so the chemistry is still the same. Certainly some additives have been introduced over the years - e.g. for AGM to withstand deep-charging.My question is this really. I use an optimate on my motorbike battery. It has a de-sulphate mode. Is there such a thing for a 110Ah AGM leisure battery? Any prospect of recovering it or is it a waste of time trying? In which case it's an order to @travelvolts for a new one.
If the 12.8V is voltage when battery has been at rest after charging for more than 4 hours - it indicates that the battery is fully charged. So there is nothing a charger could do more to make the battery any happier.Quick hijack of thread. My AGM leisure battery never goes higher that 13.1V and is often at 12.8V according the the voltmeters I have. Do I have a problem with the battery or the Redarc dc-dc? Thanks
More likely to be a problem with your volt meters.Quick hijack of thread. My AGM leisure battery never goes higher that 13.1V and is often at 12.8V according the the voltmeters I have. Do I have a problem with the battery or the Redarc dc-dc? Thanks
More likely to be a problem with your volt meters.
Hi, thanks for this. I am a new wave user with an 18 month old conversion. Split fuse blew out by leisure battery a few days after going on holiday after VW engine battery replaced. Awaiting inspection from converter who believes leisure battery was left to run down which cannot be the case as van used at least twice a week. Not sure what system we have in. AGM leisure battery. Van previously used for hookup type stays old school so this new usage may have tipped the van over the edge? Any thoughts? Thanks!There is one important element missing from this discussion. It is also the first question that I ask a prospective customer, "how do you plan to use your van"? This has a huge bearing on what equipment I would recommend. There are two very different camps at the moment. There are the died in the wool "caravan mentality" (converters and end users) and there are the "new wave". The former is most likely to be parking up on a camp site for a week and plugging into the mains so proper split charging isn't really a requirement here as the onboard charger looks after the battery. The new wave however is a very different proposition. These are people that use their vans very differently. Wild camping, one nighting, extreme sports etc. These people depend very heavily on full charging of their battery from the vehicle as they very rarely encounter a hook up facility. There are also many people that don't have this facility at home either. They may live on a street of terraced housing or have allocated parking away from their house. Mains charging is not really an option for here. If these conversions were done with just a relay based split charging system then their aux battery would never truly achieve absorption and subsequently the battery gives poor performance and ultimately is damaged. I have always made it clear to anyone buying a battery from me that it must be charged properly, otherwise I cannot support the manufacturers warranty.
I don't see a fully charged aux battery as a "holy grail", I see it as an absolute prerequisite to a properly functioning system with dependability. Judging by our customers feedback this exactly what we achieve.
The Sargent/PIS/CBE all in one options may be acceptable for the old guard and the "caravan mentality end users" but just don't cut it for the new wave.