Leisure Battery Charging

Had one of these Hillside vans in last week with the same problem. They have the wrong charging equipment fitted. You will need to get this changed for a DC-DC set up. Cost, around £480.00

Great advice thanks. Others have thought the same. Going to try and get Hillside to sort it as in warranty but not holding my breath they will change their system! Have other issues with my van they have to sort so it needs to go in. Will see what they say about the charger. Another autoelectrician in Cornwall told me the same. But was on holiday down there in the van so couldn’t part with it for long enough. Where are you based? Want to fit solar soon so will look to get everything working at the same time! Thanks, J
 
RS do a range of nice relays that you could use to automatically change your mains sockets over between MHU and the inverter.
This one is nice & solid but reasonably priced at £27 inc, I've used a couple in domestic jobs, no trouble in years of use
Schneider Electric Control Relay 2NO/2NC, 10 A | CA2KN22P7 | RS Components

I hope all is well.

I bought a Schneider CA2KN22P7 control relay from RS components to automatically switch between the hookup 230V supply (preferred input) and the 230V inverter supply.
CA2KN22P7 | Schneider Electric Control Relay 2NO/2NC, 10 A | RS Components
Unfortunately, there are no wiring/connection diagrams online or supplied with the device.
I contacted both RS and Schneider but neither have been forthcoming in providing a wiring diagram.

Would anyone be able to provide a wiring diagram or an image of how this is connected up in situ?

All my thanks in advance
 
This is the same one that we use in our kits. Download the fitting PDF from our website. On the 230 volt mains page.
 
Hi Travelvolt - definitely don't work for CBE - sorry to disappoint - we don't sell any components unlike some!! ;)

The DS300UK has a fet controlled link, if it was just a 70A ignition controlled relay what would happen when the relay was activated with say a 14.8V vehicle circuit and a depleted 11v aux battery - you'd have hundreds of amps trying to cross the relay so it cannot be just a straight 70A relay link as you suggest. It varies from a DC to DC in that it has no microprocessor controlled phased charging algorithm, the FET merely limits it to a 30A max charge rate.

The reason I mention reg 10 is I've seen a number of conversions - both self build and 'professional' converter - that have had issues with burnt out wiring and auxiliaries catching fire for two reasons:

1. Very few people do the maths on wire sections and when they do they calculate at 12v and leave no headroom for the 15V it may see from the vehicle side or say the 14.5v it'll see from a DC-DC charger
2. Most people think that 12v components in a 12v 'car' system cannot have a problem as the voltages match.

it's not the compliance with Reg 10 I'm promoting - more the fact that the auxiliary components are disconnected whilst the auxiliary circuits are subject to an external charging regime from the alternator or battery to battery charger. A lot of those who install components in campers, professional and selfbuild, don't realise that the 12v Ikea LED lights they've bought may be subjected to voltages that they are not rated or tested at during a charging regime as they were never desgned for automotive use.

With the auxiliaries being disconnected during drive charging by a system - CBE or otherwise, no matter what the method of charging - this over voltage is not an issue for the consumers that folk like to fit to their campers which are not reg 10 compliant and hence why I mentioned it.

Yes, the average self build will not know how to check whether a component meets UNECE Regulation 10 and will not validate the certificate and test report that accompanies it and for that reason Reg 10 is irrelevant - but the very reason that they struggle to understand why the need for the reg, is why they should adopt the principle. It'll also stop 'em struggling to understand why there's a burning plastic smell from the 12v Aldi fairy lights they installed in their roof as they trundle down the M6 at 70mph! :)
I'm about to have a T6 converted and am now extremely worried! If I'm going to have a 150w solar set up, a gel leisure battery and want the leisure battery to be charged while driving will the CTEK 250SE Dual be safe and work effectively - should I push them to use that instead? The company fits the Sargent ec155 as the power management system I think. Does that all 'ring true'? The standard split charger they fit is a Durite 0-727-33 but perhaps that is not the best option? I am a complete novice when it comes to electronics so apologies if any of that doesn't make sense. @travelvolts @Pocc
 
I'm about to have a T6 converted and am now extremely worried! If I'm going to have a 150w solar set up, a gel leisure battery and want the leisure battery to be charged while driving will the CTEK 250SE Dual be safe and work effectively - should I push them to use that instead? The company fits the Sargent ec155 as the power management system I think. Does that all 'ring true'? The standard split charger they fit is a Durite 0-727-33 but perhaps that is not the best option? I am a complete novice when it comes to electronics so apologies if any of that doesn't make sense. @travelvolts @Pocc

Ignore what Pocc has posted. There is some truth in it but mostly it is scare mongering
bs. Your system will be perfectly safe if installed correctly.
You cannot however, use a Durite relay to charge the leisure battery.
Ask your converter to fit the Ctek Dual or other DC DC charger instead.
 
Ignore what Pocc has posted. There is some truth in it but mostly it is scare mongering
bs. Your system will be perfectly safe if installed correctly.
You cannot however, use a Durite relay to charge the leisure battery.
Ask your converter to fit the Ctek Dual or other DC DC charger instead.

Not sure where I've been scaremongering or BS - come on TravelVolts - you withdrew your comments before when you realised you were wrong - why the BS scaremongering comment now??

Travel volts is right though - do not let your converter fit a VSR on a T6 as a split charge system.
 
Ignore what Pocc has posted. There is some truth in it but mostly it is scare mongering
bs. Your system will be perfectly safe if installed correctly.
You cannot however, use a Durite relay to charge the leisure battery.
Ask your converter to fit the Ctek Dual or other DC DC charger instead.

Hey Travelvolts, I'm looking to fit a ctek D250SE from your site with the extreme AGM 110 battery can you recommend a charger to use whilst on ehu mainly for fridge, lights, phone chargers/tablet?
 
For the 110ah battert above setup.

And a 10-20% charge rate

Is say the 15A version.

So a 12/15/1

12v
15A
1x output.
 
For the 110ah battert above setup.

And a 10-20% charge rate

Is say the 15A version.

So a 12/15/1

12v
15A
1x output.

Thanks dude, if I stuck a 150watt panel on the roof as well would I need to isolate that when on electric hookup? or are the chargers smart enough that it wouldn't matter?
 
thats fine, they will work in parallel with each other.

just remember a solar panel needs to be connected to a solar controller, then on to the battery.



take a look at the Victron schematic . . .

1595665326374.png

 
thats fine, they will work in parallel with each other.

just remember a solar panel needs to be connected to a solar controller, then on to the battery.



take a look at the Victron schematic . . .

View attachment 79041

my plan was to use the Ctek D250se, I was under the impression that was had a solar controller built in, well that was the appeal to me anyway. cheers the solar malarkey is all very new to me I'm coming from a T4 that has a plug and go split charge combined fuse box from T4rus about 12 years ago :slow rofl:
 
Yes ctek d250 has a MPPT PV solar input
 
@Dellmassive - can the solar input to the CTEK be manually controlled? My EC51 panel (EC155 system) keeps randomly beeping & the technical advice was that the solar regulator may be overcharging the leisure battery (LiFOS). Thanks.
 
@Dellmassive - can the solar input to the CTEK be manually controlled? My EC51 panel (EC155 system) keeps randomly beeping & the technical advice was that the solar regulator may be overcharging the leisure battery (LiFOS). Thanks.
What charge program do you have your CTEK set to?
 
As per @Deaky question above.

Also what ctek have you got?

D250se ? With lithium profile?



Or older d250a non lithium?

Have you got a volt meter in the system to verify the voltage?

And yes you can add a switch or breaker inline with the PV solar input to disable the solar... (provided it spec is inline with the PV panel spec)
 
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